Effects of draw
- Thread starter trufil
- Start date
Ok.. here is a simple test to see if your doing it correctly with respect to draw. Place the object ball about two inches from the side pocket. Place the cueball in line with the object ball about 8 inches away straight in. Now draw it medium to hard depending on your cloth with a firm stroke. If you hit it correctly the object ball will go in and the cueball will draw back straight and go in to the opposite side pocket.
trufil said:
Are you missing shots where you have to hit it hard with draw? That could be the problem - you are jerking your whole body offline when you hit it hard instead of making a nice smooth transition. Try long, smooth and powerful with follow-through, not jerky, short and fast.
Chris
In my experience, if you are cutting the ball (not straight in), and you are using draw, there is a little bit of throw.
Think of it this way. Yes, the OB takes on follow spin, but it was hit at an angle, so it's not just straight follow anymore. Depending on the amount of cut, and speed of the shot.
Also think of this, your OB could be "jumping" a little bit more than you are used to. After it is hit (at an angle) the follow spin will "catch" the cloth a little, and could throw it off line a little.
Did anybody else think of anything along those lines?
Thanks,
Jon
Think of it this way. Yes, the OB takes on follow spin, but it was hit at an angle, so it's not just straight follow anymore. Depending on the amount of cut, and speed of the shot.
Also think of this, your OB could be "jumping" a little bit more than you are used to. After it is hit (at an angle) the follow spin will "catch" the cloth a little, and could throw it off line a little.
Did anybody else think of anything along those lines?
Thanks,
Jon
BiG_JoN said:
depending on how hard the object ball is hit, it will jump or skid. the harder you hit it, the more it skids. perfect example: when you apply sidespin to the cue, if you hit it hard it won't take effect as soon because it is skidding at first, hit it softly and the sidespin will take effect quicker. same goes with throw, the softer you hit the cue, the more throw the object ball with take. i think his problem is as other people mentioned. draw is by far the most misunderstood and abused hits on the cue. most beginner players believe that they have to "juice up" or hit the cue harder. the harder you stroke, the more prone you are not to hit the cue where you intended, especially if you haven't fine tuned your stroke. my suggestion is the same suggestion i give for everthing.......P R A C T I C E...lol. start by setting up short cuts and hitting them with draw. then work your way farther away from the object ball. slow smooth backstroke....get comfortable........pause.......now smoothly stroke the cue, accelerating the entire time. it may also help that while practicing, after you line your shot up, make the cue ball the last thing you look at and put all your focus on hitting the intended spot on the cue. whether you miss the shot or make it just focus on cueing the ball correctly. another simple way to figure it out, is buy the elephant balls practic set, this will show you exactly where you are cueing the ball by the chalk mark.
thats my .02 cents, if its even worth that........lol
hope this helps
trufil said:
Try not tensing up your arm when you execute the shot. Like Tate said, just focus on being smooth, with a nice follow thru. Pull the cue back nice and smoothly and go thru the cueball smoothly, and really focus on having your tip contact the cueball exactly where you want it to. Some people say to have your eyes glued on the object ball when you hit the cueball, and other's say to look at the cueball. Either way, if you are first learning how to draw the cueball, I would say to first focus on the cueball when you hit it just until you get the feel of how to do it right, and after that you can watch the object ball last if that's what is comfortable to you. Another thing is to try to keep your grip on the back end of the cuestick light, but snug, and try to keep the same grip pressure all throughout the stroke. Hope this helps.
Increase the length of the bridge and your stroke. Increase the length of the follow through. Don't hit real hard, just firmly. Careful you don't drop your shoulder/elbow.
Practice. I hit 200 full length, 9 ft table diagonal corner to corner, power draw shots yesterday.
Practice. I hit 200 full length, 9 ft table diagonal corner to corner, power draw shots yesterday.
Well, trufil, you've already gotten a lot of diagnoses to your possible problems, even in the absence of symptoms. We really have no idea why you're missing your draw shots. Maybe it's because you never chalk and the cue ball is hitting the top of the object ball. Not likely that you wouldn't have noticed this, but it's possible. Maybe you stand cross-legged when you shoot draw shots.trufil said:
To actually answer your question, theory says that either draw or follow on the cue ball will cause less collision-induced throw than you will see with a cue ball that has no spin when it hits the object ball. I don't know of any experiment that has confirmed or disproven this theory.
As for whether you are applying unintended side spin when you shoot with draw, here is a way to test your stroke: Set up for an easy, straight-in draw shot, with the object ball maybe a foot from the pocket and the cue ball a foot from the object ball. The cue ball, object ball and pocket must be in a straight line. Here's the important part: instead of using the regular cue ball, use a stripe as your cue ball. Put the stripe so that it is oriented like a tire, so the ball sits on the stripe and your tip will hit the center of the stripe. If you hit the shot without side spin but with draw, the stripe will keep its orientation. If you hit with unintended side spin, the stripe will spin crazily.
Someone said that when you use follow, unintended side spin has the greatest throw effect. I think that is false.