Engraving help

[Cue]

I have decided to engrave my name on my cues instead of using waterslide decals as I have found that after a few years, the clear background yellows on the decals.

I want to engrave in solid letters but I cant seem to figure out how to do that, I can only get the outline of the text as seen in the picture. I am using Bobcad v21 with a 30 degree engraving bit. Im sure its something simple I am missing :smile:

 

[Trepla]

I believe solid letters would require pocketing. Engraving only gives you the outline of the letters. You would also need to use a straight bit, not a pointed bit unless I'm misunderstanding your question.

 

[scdiveteam]

Hi,

I have been in your same wheelhouse concerning this issue. I have found that using a .0156 mill and mixing powered white or black pigment with Finish Cure 20 minute works well.

My friend uses the 30 degree and uses india ink and his works very well and looks great.. I just could not make it look perfect with the 30 degree engraver and ink.

I have tried epoxy putty, paint fill stick and tried other things but have not been happy for one reason or another. Make no mistake, this is a very hard skill to master because the logo must look perfect.

Anyway I have opted to place my logo on all of my future cues with an very small ivory inlay. Frankly it's much easier. Nest a bunch of parts, cut them and put them in a box. It only take a few minutes to cut the pocket from a pre tested G-Code file, IMO.

Good Luck,

Rick

 

[Cue]

I am going to fill the engraving with Epoxy, I just need to get the letters solid. If I had a simple logo then the inlay would work but with many cursive letters I think that route would be more difficult.

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

I can't read it. What does it say?...JER

 

[cuejo]

Looks like "test"

 

[Cue]

Yes, it was just a test piece that says test.

 

[ELBeau]

I want to engrave in solid letters but I cant seem to figure out how to do that, I can only get the outline of the text as seen in the picture. I am using Bobcad v21 with a 30 degree engraving bit. Im sure its something simple I am missing :smile:

I'm new to bobcad, but here's how I've done it-
If I want a solid line, just delete half of the double-line vectors as needed. That, or pick a text style that I like and use bobcad to plot points, lines and arcs to suit your taste. Modify the file to get what you want, but that'll give you a basis to work with.
I'm curious if there's a better way.

 

[Cue]

Deleting one of the lines wouldn't work as the text wouldn't cut correctly.

 

[ELBeau]

Deleting one of the lines wouldn't work as the text wouldn't cut correctly.

Agreed. As I said, you'll have to use it as a basis and make adjustments as needed- manually. While Bobcad's not the easiest to move geometry around, you can "translate" it where you want to.
Maybe someone else will have a quick & easy fix. I'd like to learn it.

 

[Renegade_56]

In Gibbscam you would simply use a different font,,,,,,Does Bobcad not have selectable fonts?

 

[CueCaps]

Single Line fonts

Disclaimer:
I'm not a cuemaker..... :smile:

Draw out your letters in a CAD program.
You should be able to connect straight lines and curves to get the letter's
to form how you like it..

Bring that DXF file to a CAM Program and create the g-code..
Bring it to your "Mach 3" or what ever you're using..
I got lazy CAM with the MACH 3...
I use TurboCAD... Under $100.00 from IMSD.

Use an endmill.... I use .008", .012" or .015", depending on the thickness and (or) the line size needed to get the letter ledgible..
Those engraving cutters come in 30* 60* (Etc.) are tapered..
The thickness of the lines will depend on how deep your cutting depth is.
If not all level, the line will vary in thickness. The deeper you go, the thicker line you will get..
Sometimes, you might sand the tops and find you are loosing the lines, because they are getting thinner as they get shallower.
I use dyed Epoxy to get the colors in the fill.

Do a Internet search.. Lots of free fonts.. some might be single line..

I did my Avatar "Kanji" on Turbo CAD and can easily get it to G code..


Alton

 

[CueCaps]

The top of Paul's Richard Black Santa Fe Cue Cap was done on Turbo CAD..

It is actually how I wrote it on paper and re-created it with lines and curves..
I actually looks like my hand writing.. :smile:
I think I used a .008" Endmill... Gold color in epoxy...
Alton

 

[Cue]

Thanks for the info, I didn't want to draw them, I would rather use text already made

Looks like what I need is a single line font, this site has some but im sure they can be found for free.
http://www.onelinefonts.com

 

[BeachCues]

I know in solidworks you can project curves to a surface . Draw font on flat plane the project the curves to the surface ( pool cue surface). This will give you a 3d curve to program with . You can then program using an engraving cutter and achieve the same depths throughout . It will look better if you can do multi axis simultaneous (all 4 axis at the same time).

 

[Bob A]

StickFont

Download Stickfont v1.1 free at http://www.ncplot.com/stickfont/stickfont.htm
and also can download 14 additional fonts. I have used V1 and it works great.
V2.+ is available for 15 days and then has to be registered.
I downloaded V1.1 and it more features than V1.0
Worth a try!

 

[Cue]

Thanks, I downloaded that last night and I also found a lot of other single line fonts. Bobcad even has some in. They are the same fonts that are used to engrave wood signs with a V bit, since a lot of those are not outlined text either.

 

[Bob A]

More fonts

Just found out you can convert TTF fonts to work with Stickfont.
More for free!

Bob A

 

[opiesbro]

Hi,

I have been in your same wheelhouse concerning this issue. I have found that using a .0156 mill and mixing powered white or black pigment with Finish Cure 20 minute works well.

My friend uses the 30 degree and uses india ink and his works very well and looks great.. I just could not make it look perfect with the 30 degree engraver and ink.

I have tried epoxy putty, paint fill stick and tried other things but have not been happy for one reason or another. Make no mistake, this is a very hard skill to master because the logo must look perfect.

Anyway I have opted to place my logo on all of my future cues with an very small ivory inlay. Frankly it's much easier. Nest a bunch of parts, cut them and put them in a box. It only take a few minutes to cut the pocket from a pre tested G-Code file, IMO.

Good Luck,

Rick

I've been trying to use the .0156 end mill in my inlay machine to do my logo. I just can't keep them from breaking. My logo isn't anything difficult. When cutting I turn my dremel all the way up and try to feed slow. I cut under .020 in a pass. Attached is what I was cutting tonight. It is micarta that I was forced to finish up with a .0177 bit that had been broken shorter. Don't get me wrong it worked but I want better.


Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

 

[Mc2]

I've been trying to use the .0156 end mill in my inlay machine to do my logo. I just can't keep them from breaking. My logo isn't anything difficult. When cutting I turn my dremel all the way up and try to feed slow. I cut under .020 in a pass. Attached is what I was cutting tonight. It is micarta that I was forced to finish up with a .0177 bit that had been broken shorter. Don't get me wrong it worked but I want better.


Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk

Check the run out in your spindle. If you have a fair amount of run out you will break your bits more easily. A better spindle will most likely fix this.

Jim