epoxy finish

scdiveteam said:
Joe,

I don't spin the the cue using the dc motor system until the costs are sprayed. I use the motor system to spin very very slow maybe 30 rpm between coats while the material flashes.

While spaying I jog the cue by hand to apply even coats side to side.

Rock
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That doesn't cause any runs? I spray while its spinning at 150-200 and spray really light coats, multiple times. I saw your cues at the show in Chicago, and your finish is flawless, but I don't think I could spray without spinning. You must have it down to a science man, lol.

Joe
 
Personnaly not a fan of 5 minute epoxy, but that's their decision.
As someone wiser than me said, hey, did you ever see them spin a car to shoot car coat on it, why should I spin a cue.
 
cutter said:
Personnaly not a fan of 5 minute epoxy, but that's their decision.
As someone wiser than me said, hey, did you ever see them spin a car to shoot car coat on it, why should I spin a cue.
Click to expand...

i'm always reading posts and keeping quiet, but i'm lmao with that. because i was thinking the same. lol
 
snipershot said:
That doesn't cause any runs? I spray while its spinning at 150-200 and spray really light coats, multiple times. I saw your cues at the show in Chicago, and your finish is flawless, but I don't think I could spray without spinning. You must have it down to a science man, lol.

Joe
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Hi Joe,

Darrin taught me how to spray and he was a custom auto car guy before building cues. I do it a little different than he does as far as coats as my booth spins 3 lathes. He goes full trigger across the cue and then back. I go full trigger one time down the cue giving a uniform wet look but not enough to drip. After doing the cue after hand turning the spindles, I then turn on the motor very slow while it flashes so the clear can't sag.

I wait 10 minutes for the clear to flash and do it again. I do a total of 3 coats. After wets sanding I guess I have 3 to 4 mills on the cue. The G5 gives the clear the depth and the clear the shinny finish and luster.

I have been finishing using G5 for 7 years and for the last 5 to 6 years have been applying it warm between 90 and 100 degrees to a cue that is also warmed up in an room over 70 degrees. Not one problem from cues in the field as I track these things. I love it because I can put on 4 coats in less that 15 minutes and sand the next day with 220 non clog until 90% flat sanded then 320 non clog until 100% flat on the surface. Ready for a wipe down and spray. I never burn through because there is more product than I need over the elevation of my mandrels.

G5 is the strongest 5 min epoxy. Many people are afraid to use it because I notice they always quote the disclaimer from Wests website saying it is not for structural use and should be used for tacking member in position before laying glass and 207 / 105. West says that on there web site as a disclaimer so people don't use it with the fiberglass mesh. Because it sets up very fast it does not soak in and won't work with that mesh system application which is structural in boat building.

Many ways to skin a cat. What ever works is good. I like G5 and get stellar results that last for the long haul. G5 is a bi*ch to learn how to apply and as I said in the post, it is one of the hardest skill sets that I have had to master in cue making. From where I am at now, I think it was worth the pain to master it. I think people who don't like it had a bad experience while trying to use it and I can see that. It is not as easy as spinning a lathe and brushing on some stuff that will flow out while spinning.

Joe, you are welcome to come over to my shop any time and I will show you how Darrin trained me how to apply it. It's a little tricky but easy if someone shows you the details.

Rick
 
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scdiveteam said:
Before the hot application, I did have some lifting of my finish on a lot of my beta cues I gave away to my APA players as ginny pig tests in the field. I had to refinish about 15 cues within six month. No one got mad because they got the cues for free and this did not hurt my reputation or my name.
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This is why every APA team need a cue maker as a member! :thumbup:

I have no problem with beta testing. Win/win situation, and not as risky or permanent as being a guinea pig for a budding tattoo artist.....
 
I've mentioned this before in threads, but will do it again. Fast set epoxies, do so because of an organic compound called mercaptan. It's also what gives them the unique odor. It also attracts moisture. It never stops attracting moisture. I've been told, it is also why fast set epoxies tend to yellow much faster than slow set epoxy. Strength has nothing to do with
epoxy used as sealer, it's what it looks like does down the road. Ask the old repair guys about the 5 minute devcon coated cues they have refinished.
Yellow all the way thru. I've found veneer colors under it, that the owner didn't even know where there. As always, just my opinion!
 
cutter said:
I've mentioned this before in threads, but will do it again. Fast set epoxies, do so because of an organic compound called mercaptan. It's also what gives them the unique odor. It also attracts moisture. It never stops attracting moisture. I've been told, it is also why fast set epoxies tend to yellow much faster than slow set epoxy. Strength has nothing to do with
epoxy used as sealer, it's what it looks like does down the road. Ask the old repair guys about the 5 minute devcon coated cues they have refinished.
Yellow all the way thru. I've found veneer colors under it, that the owner didn't even know where there. As always, just my opinion!
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Thanks Steve.
I don't know what the rush is for 5-minute epoxy usage except for customer waiting or temp jig hold down .
Thin slow set epoxy get INTO the wood. The next coat flows much better on top of it. Takes 4 days max for the two to work real well.
Can be shortened if you have a heat box.
 
cutter said:
I've mentioned this before in threads, but will do it again. Fast set epoxies, do so because of an organic compound called mercaptan. It's also what gives them the unique odor. It also attracts moisture. It never stops attracting moisture. I've been told, it is also why fast set epoxies tend to yellow much faster than slow set epoxy. Strength has nothing to do with
epoxy used as sealer, it's what it looks like does down the road. Ask the old repair guys about the 5 minute devcon coated cues they have refinished.
Yellow all the way thru. I've found veneer colors under it, that the owner didn't even know where there. As always, just my opinion!
Click to expand...

Are you sure it wasn't 2 Ton Devcon? I have seen most of what you
refer to in the longer set version. Speaking as a guy who has used
plenty of 5 min epoxy, I used it for tips for years, I can tell you that
the yellowing is exactly the opposite with Devcon. I double checked
a butt I sealed over 10 years ago - no signs of yellowing whatsoever.
It would be easy to spot because it has silver rings.

Don't know about the moisture attracting part.

Dale
 
pdcue said:
Are you sure it wasn't 2 Ton Devcon? I have seen most of what you
refer to in the longer set version. Speaking as a guy who has used
plenty of 5 min epoxy, I used it for tips for years, I can tell you that
the yellowing is exactly the opposite with Devcon. I double checked
a butt I sealed over 10 years ago - no signs of yellowing whatsoever.
It would be easy to spot because it has silver rings.

Don't know about the moisture attracting part.

Dale
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I've seen both yellow. Funny how 2 ton Devcon has a 2000lb shear rating.
Most of the yellow cues I have seen where from the 90's. 2001 build is still a baby. I know for sure some of them where 5 min, because the guy who made them told me what he used. He's in the ICA HOF, but I won't name names.
 
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