Ever leave 'em short?

[derangedhermit]

I play a gentle game, and try to move the cue ball around as little as possible. Once every few nights, I'll leave an object ball short of the pocket because I only wanted the cue ball to roll a short distance.

Not counting miscues or some other error, I can't remember ever seeing anyone else do this.

It takes an unusually flat and level table to play long shots at these speeds. It's surprising, but not unusual, for me to see 1/8" or 1/4" of cue ball drift when shooting softly on a table most players think is very flat. I have to remember to add a little speed on longer shots to make sure the cue ball stays on line.

 

[Maniac]

I play a gentle game, and try to move the cue ball around as little as possible. Once every few nights, I'll leave an object ball short of the pocket because I only wanted the cue ball to roll a short distance.

Not counting miscues or some other error, I can't remember ever seeing anyone else do this.

It takes an unusually flat and level table to play long shots at these speeds. It's surprising, but not unusual, for me to see 1/8" or 1/4" of cue ball drift when shooting softly on a table most players think is very flat. I have to remember to add a little speed on longer shots to make sure the cue ball stays on line.

I know a player or two that is constantly missing balls from trying to slow-roll the cueball too much. You rarely ever see a pro-speed player slow roll the cueball.

My suggestion is to learn how to slow the cueball down using your normal stroke incorporating stun and/or english to keep 'ol whitey in the area you want it to stay in. If that isn't an option (and it usually IS for a lot of shots), look at the path for 2, 3, maybe even 4-rail position using speed control. My game grew tremendously when I stopped trying to slow-roll so many times.

I'm sure you are going to get better answers/suggestions than what I gave you, but this is a good starting point.

Maniac

 

[Donny Lutz]

Short of the pocket?

I play a gentle game, and try to move the cue ball around as little as possible. Once every few nights, I'll leave an object ball short of the pocket because I only wanted the cue ball to roll a short distance.

Not counting miscues or some other error, I can't remember ever seeing anyone else do this.

It takes an unusually flat and level table to play long shots at these speeds. It's surprising, but not unusual, for me to see 1/8" or 1/4" of cue ball drift when shooting softly on a table most players think is very flat. I have to remember to add a little speed on longer shots to make sure the cue ball stays on line.

Sounds like you may be slow-rolling shots when you don't need to. Watch the pros. They keep their slow rolls to a minimum, by slowing down the CB with stun, draw or inside english when a rail is involved. This is demonstrated very effectively in many books and dvds, such as Dr. Dave's.
The best way to learn this stuff of course is from in instructor, in person.

Donny L
PPIA/ACS Instructor
Gainesville, Fl

 

[jason]

I play a gentle game, and try to move the cue ball around as little as possible. Once every few nights, I'll leave an object ball short of the pocket because I only wanted the cue ball to roll a short distance.

Not counting miscues or some other error, I can't remember ever seeing anyone else do this.

It takes an unusually flat and level table to play long shots at these speeds. It's surprising, but not unusual, for me to see 1/8" or 1/4" of cue ball drift when shooting softly on a table most players think is very flat. I have to remember to add a little speed on longer shots to make sure the cue ball stays on line.

You're obviously not playing the shot correctly. There is an optimal way to shoot every shot and if you are playing with fire on every shot, you will get burnt. There is no reason you cant adjust your game a little to eliminate this. Quit hitting them like a lil' girly boy!

 

[DallasHopps]

I can imagine that amount of roll-off just from table nap, dirt, or unbalanced balls. I also agree that a little extra speed with stun or below center hits will give you the minimal movement you're after while ensuring the shot rolls true and goes down.

 

[Jcat]

I used to play 1 pocket a lot and have left a few short over the years, but as a general rule I try not to attempt such a shot due to table and ball roll error. What has affected me more than short shots is excessive throw due to nicks in the balls or dirty balls.

 

[derangedhermit]

Thanks to all for the comments, and I agree that a little more pace, as called for, would help my game.

On using draw/stun: most of the time my cue ball is rolling well before it hits the object ball. So I would need to add pace to do that. I find it hard to keep the cue ball from moving a lot when I slide it into the object ball. I can think of two reasons for that:

1) Drawing shape that leaves more cut than is typical, and/or
2) Shot selection: choosing shots with more cut than typical (over, say, longer straighter shots)

 

[TripXQ]

putting!!!!!

A saying from, of all things, golf is appropriate. Never up, never in.

Decide on the speed and force needed for a given shot to get to the pocket and then increase it by 1.5 times. Make sure the object ball hits the back of the pocket. If it does you win.
Stunning and draw are worth their weight in gold. Learn them well.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues
website: www.triplecrosscues.com

 

[LuckedOut]

One of my practice sessions weekly, I play the let it die in the pocket game and have found out most of the time the slow roll is only one option.

I came to realize that my older tendency of slow rolling many shots a game was covering up for a stroke flaw that came out when swinging regular or full.

The more I practiced my stroke in front of a mirror at normal speed, the less I slow rolled because I gained confidence in my stroke. I still do slow roll practice though.

 

[Cdryden]

I play a gentle game, and try to move the cue ball around as little as possible. Once every few nights, I'll leave an object ball short of the pocket because I only wanted the cue ball to roll a short distance.

Not counting miscues or some other error, I can't remember ever seeing anyone else do this.

It takes an unusually flat and level table to play long shots at these speeds. It's surprising, but not unusual, for me to see 1/8" or 1/4" of cue ball drift when shooting softly on a table most players think is very flat. I have to remember to add a little speed on longer shots to make sure the cue ball stays on line.

It sounds like you just haven't found the balance yet. Too little or too much of anything can be bad.

For example lets say you have a table length shot where your 8 ball is 7 inches from the corner. and the CB is up table.

CueTable Help

You could slow roll the CB into the 8 to get position on the 9 but you will leave yourself at the mercy of the table and possibly drifting offline missing the eight. Or, you could hit a crisp stop shot hoping for a perfect hit and killing the CB completely, there is a chance your shot hits left or right of center on the 8 throwing your CB to place you don't want it.

And finally (my choice) you could hit the eight with mild speed and a little follow letting the CB go into the foot rail and rebounding back 6 - 10 inches to get position on the 9.

 

[justadub]

I play a gentle game, and try to move the cue ball around as little as possible. Once every few nights, I'll leave an object ball short of the pocket because I only wanted the cue ball to roll a short distance.

Not counting miscues or some other error, I can't remember ever seeing anyone else do this.

It takes an unusually flat and level table to play long shots at these speeds. It's surprising, but not unusual, for me to see 1/8" or 1/4" of cue ball drift when shooting softly on a table most players think is very flat. I have to remember to add a little speed on longer shots to make sure the cue ball stays on line.

Your thread is well timed, for me. I've been struggling recently, and discovered that I'm often trying to do too much with the ball, and my ability and stroke isn't ready for that yet. As such, I've returned to my "gentler" days, using bare pocket speed on more of my shots, and have found a little more success.

All of the challenges that you mention apply to me, especially roll off. (On our tables, it's quite an adventure, even at medium speeds!). So the goal for me is to continue using the slower speed stroke, and try to gradually increase it while still maintaining the accuracy. Maybe you can try this, too. Good luck and good shooting.

 

[West Point 1987]

IMHO, the reason so many 9 ball players initially have trouble getting into one pocket or 14.1 is that so many of them (I'm talking about pure 9 ball types that don't play much else) get used to a firmer, harder-than-medium stroke that slaps the balls in, relying on muscling the cue ball into position...kind of where the term "banger" came from. I've watched good players do it that way for years and never get any better...Knowing how to slow roll balls, spin shots in, cheating pockets, wrinkle around the edge of interfering balls, etc. is a skill that requires CONSTANT practice and is necessary for most pattern games. You can develop problems with your stroke if you believe the ball has to hit the back of the pocket every time that you won't see easily, whereas those that try to keep a soft touch in practice will see and fix stroke problems on the spot. You can always amp your stroke up when needed, the trick is to be able to amp down, too. You should only hit the ball hard enough to get the cue ball where it needs to go for the next shot, no more.

 

[Indiana Skinny]

IMHO, the reason so many 9 ball players initially have trouble getting into one pocket or 14.1 is that so many of them (I'm talking about pure 9 ball types that don't play much else) get used to a firmer, harder-than-medium stroke that slaps the balls in, relying on muscling the cue ball into position...kind of where the term "banger" came from. I've watched good players do it that way for years and never get any better...Knowing how to slow roll balls, spin shots in, cheating pockets, wrinkle around the edge of interfering balls, etc. is a skill that requires CONSTANT practice and is necessary for most pattern games. You can develop problems with your stroke if you believe the ball has to hit the back of the pocket every time that you won't see easily, whereas those that try to keep a soft touch in practice will see and fix stroke problems on the spot. You can always amp your stroke up when needed, the trick is to be able to amp down, too. You should only hit the ball hard enough to get the cue ball where it needs to go for the next shot, no more.

Amen brother I recently started my own little drill. lay 6 balls out in one corner area. both diamonds on each side of the hole and 2 more 1 diamond up and 1.5 over reverse to 1.5 up and 1 over for the last ball.
making 6 total. My table is fast so those touch shots are helping my game a ton!