Ferrule cracking diagnosis

D

DallasHopps

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The cue I play with has a cracked ferrule for the second time in 2-4 years. I haven't previously had this issue, but I want to know if the failures are something that I'm causing.
The ferrules are Juma. I replace my own tips with a Willard tipper, and replace when the tip height (excluding the radius, side height only) is 3/32 or so. Tip diameter is around 12.75, and the ferrule wall doesn't look particularly thin when I have the tip off and am preparing to replace it.

The cuemaker replaced the ferrule for me for free the first time, which was unexpected and nice. I want to know if there's a behavior on my part that's contributing to the cracks, or if it's just bad luck. I'm not breaking with the cue, shoot moderate full cue jumps occasionally when it makes more sense than using a jump cue, and don't try ridiculous trick-shot masse.

Any ideas? The cuemaker isn't one whose name I've heard anything bad about, so I'm assuming it's not him.

Thanks!
 
By saying the ferrule wall is not particularly thin, it must not be capped. Generally, juma is used for capped ferrules. I doubt it is anything you are doing. A stronger ferrule material would most likely solve the problem.
 
is it a standard shaft or a low deflection shaft? How long is the ferrule? Is it threaded? What size is the tennon?
 
It's a standard shaft, and the ferrule is 1". I don't know the tenon diameter or whether it's threaded.

I've read an old post from Larry Vigus saying that he saw Juma crack from tips being too thin. How small can the tip get before it should be replaced? I thought I was being pretty conservative with my replacements.
 
Shooting moderate full length jump shots generally puts a lot of stress on the side of the tip and ferrule. I would bet this is probably why your juma ferrule is cracking.

JMO
Alan
 
DallasHopps said:
The cue I play with has a cracked ferrule for the second time in 2-4 years. I haven't previously had this issue, but I want to know if the failures are something that I'm causing.
The ferrules are Juma. I replace my own tips with a Willard tipper, and replace when the tip height (excluding the radius, side height only) is 3/32 or so. Tip diameter is around 12.75, and the ferrule wall doesn't look particularly thin when I have the tip off and am preparing to replace it.

The cuemaker replaced the ferrule for me for free the first time, which was unexpected and nice. I want to know if there's a behavior on my part that's contributing to the cracks, or if it's just bad luck. I'm not breaking with the cue, shoot moderate full cue jumps occasionally when it makes more sense than using a jump cue, and don't try ridiculous trick-shot masse.

Any ideas? The cuemaker isn't one whose name I've heard anything bad about, so I'm assuming it's not him.

Thanks!
Click to expand...


It is really hard to diagnose anything without knowing how the ferrule is attched and what glue is used.
Ex.
........5 minute epoxy does work but unfortunately it does not bond well. Which means it allows movement. I will beat that horse to death til the day I pass
 
Every two to four years a new ferrule, well maybe that occasional full jump with a Juma ferrule could very well be the culprit specially if your using a softer tip. Here again, without seeing the cracked ferrule everything is a guess. To me jumping with your playing cue is plain abuse.

Mario
 
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MVPCues said:
By saying the ferrule wall is not particularly thin, it must not be capped. Generally, juma is used for capped ferrules. I doubt it is anything you are doing. A stronger ferrule material would most likely solve the problem.
Click to expand...

I use juma ferrules and never cap or thread them ............ never had one crack, split, or come loose...............


Kim
 
To the original poster. I believe that most here would agree that one of the most common causes of a cracked ferrule is that the tip expands when it contacts the cue ball. Some of that expansion is transferred to the ferrule which eventually can fail and crack. There are several solutions including installing a caped ferrule or installing a fiber pad or a carbon fiber pad between the tip and the ferrule. I hope this is helpful.

Todd
 
For 10 years, when I was doing cue repair at my billiards cafe I was doing 1 or two ferrules per week. After doing over 1000 ferrule repairs over 90 % of the cracked ferrules I worked on were threaded with a tenon threader.

As a result of that experience, Here is my advice.

As not to piss anyone off, I attribute the problem to tenons threaded with a tenon threader tool. Threaded ferrule tenons done with live threading is a great way to go IMO.

Rick
 
scdiveteam said:
For 10 years, when I was doing cue repair at my billiards cafe I was doing 1 or two ferrules per week. After doing over 1000 ferrule repairs over 90 % of the cracked ferrules I worked on were threaded with a tenon threader.

As a result of that experience, Here is my advice.

As not to piss anyone off, I attribute the problem to tenons threaded with a tenon threader tool. Threaded ferrule tenons done with live threading is a great way to go IMO.

Rick
Click to expand...

Care to further explain.

Mario
 
tsp&b said:
the most common causes of a cracked ferrule is that the tip expands when it contacts the cue ball. Some of that expansion is transferred to the ferrule which eventually can fail and crack. There are several solutions including installing a caped ferrule or installing a fiber pad or a carbon fiber pad between the tip and the ferrule.
Click to expand...

This is precisely correct. The problem gets more prevalent as the tip gets thinner. I prefer uncapped ferrules & I also prefer a low profile tip, so I am no stranger to cracked ferrules. Without changing your playing behavior, try using a fiber pad & I bet your troubles stop.
 
I have replaced my share of ferrules through the years and the majority of them were uncapped ferrules.
I noticed early on that the ones with 3/8" tenons cracked when the tip mushroomed and spread out the ferrule with it.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the truth as I see it is that none of the modern ferrule materials that glue well are strong enough to hold up consistently without being capped. If you do not like capped ferrules for some reason then at least add a fiber pad to help stop the cracking.
 
Mcues said:
Care to further explain.

Mario
Click to expand...

Mario,

Tenon threaders do not work that well so people reduce the minor or make the tenon thinner to be able to turn it on so they don't break the tenon with the torque required.

Many use wax and that is the area that gets glued during the ferrule glue up.

I use the thru hole style and never see them being problematic. JMO

Rick
 
Unthreaded ferrules are liable to move and develop gaps at the bottom.
I see two in the for sale section now that appear to have done just that.
Imho.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Unthreaded ferrules are liable to move and develop gaps at the bottom.
I see two in the for sale section now that appear to have done just that.
Imho.
Click to expand...

I don't know how they are fitted or what glue is used on the ferrules you are talking about but............ I do all my ferrules as tubes ( except break cues) and I have never had one move at all........... there has never been a gap at the bottom of any ferrules I have installed



Kim
 
whammo57 said:
I don't know how they are fitted or what glue is used on the ferrules you are talking about but............ I do all my ferrules as tubes ( except break cues) and I have never had one move at all........... there has never been a gap at the bottom of any ferrules I have installed



Kim
Click to expand...

Funny, but that's exactly what he claimed too.
Wood moves. Ivory moves.
Take note.
Btw, glue and epoxy also move.
 
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