Have you tried installing a carbon fiber pad? I believe that may resolve the issue
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Far too easy.
Robin Snyder
Have you tried installing a carbon fiber pad? I believe that may resolve the issue
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Is it generally frowned upon as abuse to jump with a playing cue? We're talking 30 degree elevation, 1/4 ball max. Not going to change my behavior either way, I'm just curious about the prevailing opinion.
For 10 years, when I was doing cue repair at my billiards cafe I was doing 1 or two ferrules per week. After doing over 1000 ferrule repairs over 90 % of the cracked ferrules I worked on were threaded with a tenon threader.
As a result of that experience, Here is my advice.
As not to piss anyone off, I attribute the problem to tenons threaded with a tenon threader tool. Threaded ferrule tenons done with live threading is a great way to go IMO.
Rick
Funny, but that's exactly what he claimed too.
Wood moves. Ivory moves.
Take note.
Btw, glue and epoxy also move.
Pure BS Rick.....
If you only had a clue.....
Dave
Pure BS Rick.....
If you only had a clue.....
Dave
Yes it all can move........... but how is it assembled.............. I just don't have those problems...............
Kim
How is a through hole ferrule assembled?
What could be have missed?
Pure BS Rick.....
If you only had a clue.....
Dave
What glue should he have used ?How is the fit??? is the end touching the shaft square.??.... do you cut 3 glue rings on the tenon??... what glue do you use???... do you put a little white color in the glue???
assembly method is critical ............. or it comes loose, cracks, or falls off
Kim
I have fixed many that were cracked..... touch the lathe tool to them and the ferrule falls off........ elmers or wood glue......... it just doesn't work for the long run because ferrules are not wood.....
The cue I play with has a cracked ferrule for the second time in 2-4 years. I haven't previously had this issue, but I want to know if the failures are something that I'm causing.
The ferrules are Juma. I replace my own tips with a Willard tipper, and replace when the tip height (excluding the radius, side height only) is 3/32 or so. Tip diameter is around 12.75, and the ferrule wall doesn't look particularly thin when I have the tip off and am preparing to replace it.
The cuemaker replaced the ferrule for me for free the first time, which was unexpected and nice. I want to know if there's a behavior on my part that's contributing to the cracks, or if it's just bad luck. I'm not breaking with the cue, shoot moderate full cue jumps occasionally when it makes more sense than using a jump cue, and don't try ridiculous trick-shot masse.
Any ideas? The cuemaker isn't one whose name I've heard anything bad about, so I'm assuming it's not him.
Thanks!
I apologize if people think I was being mean or picking on Rick's statement, BUT, I called it the way I saw it ... someone saying that using a tenon threader causes a ferrule to crack is simply not true. I don't even know of any cue manufacturing company that uses a compression threader...they all use live threading if its a threaded ferrule.Not nice Dave. Your better than this.
On threaded ferrules tenin threaders do not cut the same as live tooling. I use 3 different sizes just for ferrules. But you also have to look at the ferrule and what size drill is used. There's quite a few guys using 1/4" when they should be using and F drill. If the ferrule material is real hard you may want to use a 17/64". Lots of methods to achieve good results. Jmo
Yellow or white glues aren't used on threaded ferrules to create a structural bond. The threads create the structural bond. It's main purpose is to prevent the ferrule from un-threading. For that purpose, the glues work quite well.
I don't recommend wood or white glue on Ivor-X or Melamine or nylon ferrules.
Definitely not Elmer's white glue .Why? I use wood glue on my ferrules, always have, and they are generally melamine. While I have certainly had cracked ferrules, I can't say I have ever seen any come off or loosen up. And the cracks weren't caused by the glue. They were the result of very thin tips.
Definitely not Elmer's white glue .
I don't recommend them on ivory either .
Definitely not on nylon ferrules .
Most threaded melamine ferrules out there are the 5/16 18 capped kind with a shoulder at the bottom. I recommend slow-set epoxy on those .
https://www.zoro.com/titebond-glue-...cjnikoaxGc-bhGWSrEHaoaAhKu8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I recommend that for anything outside of epoxy.
I apologize if people think I was being mean or picking on Rick's statement, BUT, I called it the way I saw it ... someone saying that using a tenon threader causes a ferrule to crack is simply not true. I don't even know of any cue manufacturing company that uses a compression threader...they all use live threading if its a threaded ferrule.
I believe if one is to offer advice or opinions on this forum it should be based on more truth, and not fiction and when fiction is put out there it should be challenged, that's all. I have used a tenon threader for about 12-14 yrs and have done about 1000 of them, and have not had one ferrule come back cracked. Has any other cuemaker or repairman seen this to happen?
I personally don't care for the sleeve method as I have seen many tips pop off when the tenon or ferrule changes length as time goes by. Even the threaded sleeves can do this due to the facts stated by others above. I use only threaded capped ferrules on my cues and repairs of most shafts. I feel it is less likely to come back for repair again.
Dave
IMO, epoxy has no place anywhere near a threaded ferrule. I don't recommend anything, but if I were to do so, it would be threaded melamine with Titebond-II wood glue. Is there any particular reason this isn't a good idea?