Filling material for a cored shaft.

JoeyA

JoeyA

Efren's Mini-Tourn BACKER
Silver Member
What are the best light-weight materials for filling a drilled hole at the ferrule end of a shaft?

Specifically, what kind of light-weight epoxy or foam can be used after drilling a hole in the shaft if you are trying to reduce end mass? I am looking for a material that is very strong and light-weight as compared to a wooden shaft.

Does anyone know what material has been used to help accomplish the goals of reducing end mass on a shaft?

Thanks,
JoeyA
 
JoeyA said:
I need to fill the hole and wondered what would be the best material to fill it with.

thanks,
JoeyA
Click to expand...

Anything you fill the hole with will be heavier than nothing( empty hole)
Why do you want to fill it?
Some company's use a small amount of styrofoam type at the very end of the ferrule
Another uses balsa to fill it.
 
cuejo said:
Anything you fill the hole with will be heavier than nothing( empty hole)
Why do you want to fill it?
Some company's use a small amount of styrofoam type at the very end of the ferrule
Another uses balsa to fill it.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what I want to fill it with. That's why I am asking for suggestions.

I may want to fill it with a liquid of some type that hardens but is light-weight, not balsa or other wood, maybe an adhesive or epoxy.

What is the name of the Styrofoam material you speak of? What is it called in the pool industry and what is it's industry name? Is it simply a dense foam already made or is it a liquid that turns into foam?

I'm not sure if the epoxy or adhesive or foam would weigh less than the original material cored out.

Sorry for so many questions.

I'm really just seeking information as to what others are doing.

Thanks,
JoeyA
 
I've never filled mine up
Predator is mostly empty except for the very end...
I'm really not certain if they use a low expansion foam or if its cut block
This is what it looks like
e6ysuga4.jpg


I install a fiber wafer on the end of my shafts, before I install the ferrule
That's just to stop glue from being pushed into the hole
 
cuejo said:
I've never filled mine up
Predator is mostly empty except for the very end...
I'm really not certain if they use a low expansion foam or if its cut block
This is what it looks like
e6ysuga4.jpg


I install a fiber wafer on the end of my shafts, before I install the ferrule
That's just to stop glue from being pushed into the hole
Click to expand...

I cut on one of those shafts and the end blew up as soon as I touched a tool to it. It must have had a crack I didn't see and the tool caught in it.... I lost about 2 inches of the shaft to splinters. I made the guy a new shaft. He liked it better than the old one.... LOL

Kim
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
That's what I was thinking of. I used several cans of that stuff when finishing my basement. It is extremely light in weight when cured and makes a very tenacious bond to wood.
Click to expand...

I can tell you I used a product like that to seal around a door jam. What do you think happened? It swelled enough that it moved the jam closer to the door so now it rubs. Not sure I would use the great stuff unless you can control the expansion process.

I do know when the make foam products like the backing on automotive materials they control the "cell" size with vacuum. The vacuum level controls the expansion of the cells which in result changes the density.

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk 2
 
A thin-walled carbon fiber tube is another option.
My 2 cents,
Gary
 
GBCues said:
A thin-walled carbon fiber tube is another option.
My 2 cents,
Gary
Click to expand...

Gary,
That sounds interesting. Have you ever drilled a hole in a shaft and inserted a thin-walled carbon fiber tube? I imagine that the CFT might give some support to the drilled hole if it were glued in place. I wonder if Predator ever did anything like that or any other cuemaker for that matter.

I like that idea as well as the possibility of only filling in the last inch or so with some epoxy.

I wonder how many cuemakers have experimented with such things or if any of them would be willing to experiment with this idea, at my expense?

thanks,
JoeyA
 
JoeyA said:
I like that idea as well as the possibility of only filling in the last inch or so with some epoxy.
Click to expand...

Joey, the whole point of drilling out the end of the shaft is to reduce deflection-causing end mass. Since cured epoxy is roughly twice the density of the hard maple it is replacing, using epoxy in this application will only increase the deflection.
 
opiesbro said:
I can tell you I used a product like that to seal around a door jam. What do you think happened? It swelled enough that it moved the jam closer to the door so now it rubs. Not sure I would use the great stuff unless you can control the expansion process.

I do know when the make foam products like the backing on automotive materials they control the "cell" size with vacuum. The vacuum level controls the expansion of the cells which in result changes the density.

Sent from my XT901 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

They also make the "foam" in a non-expanding type --which you can get at home cheapo----:smile:
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
Joey, the whole point of drilling out the end of the shaft is to reduce deflection-causing end mass. Since cured epoxy is roughly twice the density of the hard maple it is replacing, using epoxy in this application will only increase the deflection.
Click to expand...

If you make the hole for the carbon fiber tube the right size, i dont see the epoxy being a factor. I bought some 6mm tube and am going to try it out soon. I also bought a long 6mm drill bit, so if I make the hole the right size, it would only take a very small amount of epoxy to hold the tube in place.

Joe
 
Just calculated the mass difference when you use carbon fibre tube.
Example:
Carbon fibre tube: OD = 8mm; ID = 6mm --> Wall thickness = 1mm
Density: 1.5g/cm³
Lets say you core the last 10cm.
Weight of the carbon fibre tube (10cm long) is = Pi * (0.4²-0.3²) * 10 * 1.5 = 3.30 g

Removed weight of Maple wood (Density 0.65 g/ cm³) = Pi * 0.4² * 10 * 0.65 =3.27 g

I would say you add more weight as you remove, especially if your wood has a less denisty as 650kg/m³!
 
That is a very heavy wall tube.
I think you will find that the 1mm wall tube is substantially stronger than the 13-14 mm cue shaft.
The tube probably needs to be closer to 0.3mm wall section with the correct fibre orientation .
But I don't make wood shafts.
 
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