Finish with no finish?

GrimmCustomCues

GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a customer that likes the look and feel of natural wood. What can I use for a finish to keep the cue as close to natural wood as possible?Something close to what a sealed shaft looks and feels like without being buffed and waxed. I've tested a cue with shaft sealer but just like a shaft it gets fairly dirty. I've tried sanding sealer but it ends up more like a regular finish. I'm trying to find something more permanent and something that will actually protect the wood as much as can be in this situation. Any thoughts will appreciated.




Rich
 
Dr. WoodWell. Check it out. I use this absolutely if I take the finish off a cue and want nothing but the natural wood after.

http://www.drwoodwell.com/index.php/Home/Index

If you don't believe me, I will take a pic of an old piece of junk Duff snooker cue that I used it on. Made it look better than it did when new.
 
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Absolutely concur with Birchwood & Casey gunstock oil. It's basically boiled linseed oil with a japan dryer in it. Linseed oil has been used for ages on some of the highest dollar Circassian or Claro walnut shotgun stocks ever made. I mean like 1/4 million dollar guns. Several super thin layers built up, some 0000 steel wool between coats. Apply it with your fingers. It will add an amber tone to lighter woods which may or may not be desirable. Smells good too. Final coat will be shiny but you can knock it back with some rottenstone or compound to get a matte finish. And did I mention it smells good..........?
 
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I've hit with a few of my BLACK HEART Qs before I sprayed the finish & then after. there was a definite difference. The finished one had a definitly more solid hit...JER
 
I'm going to try both the Dr Woodwell and the gunstock oil and see which one I like more...... As for the hit... I generally hit a few balls with all the cues I make before I put a finish on them to make sure my jumpers jump, breakers hit solid and my shooters don't make any funny sounds and feel right. The only definite difference I've noticed before and after the finish on a shooter is the difference in the sound of the hit.


Rich
 
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Pure walnut oil is another option. Multiple thin coats, with ample drying time in between coats since it contains no chemical driers. Develops a nice surface film without the yellowing effect of gunstock oil.
 
I have used the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil on a lot of different wood, from stabilized to raw, with finishes from high gloss to pull back with steel wool. You can build up your layers and have a lot of control on the finished look you want. Patience is the key.

I would consider it a "finish" tho.... residing on the surface.

What is the wood you're using?
 
I'm a lil off track here, but I'd use epoxy. Use a thin epoxy like West Systems & apply it with your hand, rubbing it in to the grain. You'll want to wear rubber gloves. Once a good coat is on, lightly sand with 1000grit+ & you'll have the natural wood look & feel but protection of a good finish. Try it on a scrap piece first if you have doubts, but it works rather well.
 
The wood I'm using for this project is Bacote and Maple. If it turns out the way I want it to I'll probably do purpleheart and maple and a variety of different SP's


Rich
 
" purpleheart and maple"
Remember to sand carefully so you don't get pinkish maple:eek:
Gary
 
A method I've used with good success is oil based polyurethane varnish. Take a small amount and thin it about 20% with mineral spirits. Wipe it on and let it sit for about 10 minutes then wipe all of the excess off. Let it dry and then repeat the process a couple more times. It gives great protection and also looks good.
 
Pictures might be 100% with the phone camera. This is with a buff and if I remember, I may have given it a buff with cue wax.
The Duff Dot was a little cloudy. Wellwood cleaned it up nicely.
 

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The method Dan G. suggested sounds a lot like a mechanical version of what used to be called French polishing which produces a gorgeous finish and was used on the highest of high end furniture. As for the linseed oil penetrating the woods....it does and isn't just topical. The walnut oil sounds like a great idea also since the gent said it doesn't yellow like linseed although some of that amber honey tone can be very desirable on whitish wood.
 
qbilder said:
I'm a lil off track here, but I'd use epoxy. Use a thin epoxy like West Systems & apply it with your hand, rubbing it in to the grain. You'll want to wear rubber gloves. Once a good coat is on, lightly sand with 1000grit+ & you'll have the natural wood look & feel but protection of a good finish. Try it on a scrap piece first if you have doubts, but it works rather well.
Click to expand...


Since this is all that I had in the shop tonight I tried this one out. We'll see how it looks tomorrow.



Rich
 
Thanks everyone, I think I'm on finish overload. I'm actually gonna try all the suggestions and figure out which of them works best for me.


Rich
 
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