Ya, I know a guy who uses the Earl Strickland method on his Sneaky Pete. It makes it a REAL Sneaky Pete!
First cue - maintenance advice needed
- Thread starter McM
- Start date
Ya, I know a guy who uses the Earl Strickland method on his Sneaky Pete. It makes it a REAL Sneaky Pete!
Hi,
I'm afraid of removing material by using sand paper so I use Q-Wiz.
http://www.pooldawg.com/product/q-wiz-shaft-cleaner-and-polisher
A quick wipe with a micro fiber towel after using each side. Than a two minute job with a piece of leather. Wipe, followed by three drops of Q Silk on a US greenback for two minutes = smooooth!
http://www.pooldawg.com/product/cue-silk-shaft-conditioner-0-25-oz-
I'm afraid of removing material by using sand paper so I use Q-Wiz.
http://www.pooldawg.com/product/q-wiz-shaft-cleaner-and-polisher
A quick wipe with a micro fiber towel after using each side. Than a two minute job with a piece of leather. Wipe, followed by three drops of Q Silk on a US greenback for two minutes = smooooth!
http://www.pooldawg.com/product/cue-silk-shaft-conditioner-0-25-oz-
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Didja ever notice that when you use the rough side of the Q Wiz it turns white? That's sanding dust. The rough side is about 800 grit and removes quite a bit of wood. I know.... they say it doesn't but use your head. It's obvious that it does remove wood.
Hi,
I have it in my hand right now and it does feel like sand paper. I should have known as it turns shaft white again in no time.
Thanks for the heads up, back to Scotchbrite pads!
WOW! What a great variety of responses. You all gave me quite a lot to think about. 
I went out to a local hardware store and purchased two wood offcuts in the shape of a cue shaft (one pine, one oak - that's all they had), sanded them back till they felt like glass, and test ran the P21s wax on them both over the course of a few days. To be honest, I've decided against waxing the shaft at this point. Even though it helped produce somewhat of a slicker feel, it also made the two test pieces feel tacky. I got the impression that it might present a problem in future, creating a build-up of gunk, and causing foreign particles to be attracted to it. It also seemed to change the appearance/colour of the wood to an extent also, in a way that didn't really appeal to me.
I always ensure I have clean hands before handling my cue. I just bought myself a Sir Joseph glove, and I always make a point of holding the cue at more of a horizontal angle when I'm chalking up, to help prevent chalk ending up where it shouldn't. I purchased the Q-Wiz pack, which is on its way to me as we speak. Magic Eraser to be used when needed. Now I just need to find some undyed leather..
Apologies if this is a silly question, but where would one find this? I'm assuming old black belts and wallets aren't exactly undyed.. :sorry:
Again, I sincerely appreciate everyone's advice and opinions. You've all helped this noob get on track with some kind of maintenance plan.
Oh, and regarding the McDermott maintenance plan - does that apply to international customers too? I'm from Australia.
I went out to a local hardware store and purchased two wood offcuts in the shape of a cue shaft (one pine, one oak - that's all they had), sanded them back till they felt like glass, and test ran the P21s wax on them both over the course of a few days. To be honest, I've decided against waxing the shaft at this point. Even though it helped produce somewhat of a slicker feel, it also made the two test pieces feel tacky. I got the impression that it might present a problem in future, creating a build-up of gunk, and causing foreign particles to be attracted to it. It also seemed to change the appearance/colour of the wood to an extent also, in a way that didn't really appeal to me.
I always ensure I have clean hands before handling my cue. I just bought myself a Sir Joseph glove, and I always make a point of holding the cue at more of a horizontal angle when I'm chalking up, to help prevent chalk ending up where it shouldn't. I purchased the Q-Wiz pack, which is on its way to me as we speak. Magic Eraser to be used when needed. Now I just need to find some undyed leather..
Apologies if this is a silly question, but where would one find this? I'm assuming old black belts and wallets aren't exactly undyed.. :sorry:
Again, I sincerely appreciate everyone's advice and opinions. You've all helped this noob get on track with some kind of maintenance plan.
Oh, and regarding the McDermott maintenance plan - does that apply to international customers too? I'm from Australia.
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WOW! What a great variety of responses. You all gave me quite a lot to think about.
I went out to a local hardware store and purchased two wood offcuts in the shape of a cue shaft (one pine, one oak - that's all they had), sanded them back till they felt like glass, and test ran the P21s wax on them both over the course of a few days. To be honest, I've decided against waxing the shaft at this point. Even though it helped produce somewhat of a slicker feel, it also made the two test pieces feel tacky. I got the impression that it might present a problem in future, creating a build-up of gunk, and causing foreign particles to be attracted to it. It also seemed to change the appearance/colour of the wood to an extent also, in a way that didn't really appeal to me.
I always ensure I have clean hands before handling my cue. I just bought myself a Sir Joseph glove, and I always make a point of holding the cue at more of a horizontal angle when I'm chalking up, to help prevent chalk ending up where it shouldn't. I purchased the Q-Wiz pack, which is on its way to me as we speak. Magic Eraser to be used when needed. Now I just need to find some undyed leather..
Apologies if this is a silly question, but where would one find this? I'm assuming old black belts and wallets aren't exactly undyed.. :sorry:
Again, I sincerely appreciate everyone's advice and opinions. You've all helped this noob get on track with some kind of maintenance plan.
Oh, and regarding the McDermott maintenance plan - does that apply to international customers too? I'm from Australia.
I use an old dollar bill first ,then i burnish it with an old piece of leather that i tore off a pair of Levis.This works the best ,i also try to use a glove If I remember to put it on.
IMHO a lathe or Cue Spinner can burnish a Cue much faster and better than by hand. I also feel there is a point where you are only gaining an Inch on the Mile by going to 3500 grit sand paper or something there of. I find 1000 grit sand paper gets my cues just as smooth as I want them. But I will admit I tried the dollar Bill Burnish on a waxed Cue and found it to really make it slicker. Putting it on the lathe at high speed doesn't take long to burn your fingers or at least heat them up.
BTW a Common electric Drill and a Crutch tip arbor can make a cue Spinner real quick and easy. While the Tip end is free spinning, if held in the vertical position it works well for burnishing. That is how I started building my Home Made Lathe or Cue Spinner. Even cheaper and Faster is getting a bolt from the hardware and cutting off the head to fit the drill chuck. I recommend SS Bolts because the threads seem smoother to me with out any plating.
BTW a Common electric Drill and a Crutch tip arbor can make a cue Spinner real quick and easy. While the Tip end is free spinning, if held in the vertical position it works well for burnishing. That is how I started building my Home Made Lathe or Cue Spinner. Even cheaper and Faster is getting a bolt from the hardware and cutting off the head to fit the drill chuck. I recommend SS Bolts because the threads seem smoother to me with out any plating.
93% isopropyl alcohol for the shaft....add magic eraser for a deep clean. i tape off the tip with electrical tape so it doesnt get wet. some will say not to use alcohol on laminated or spliced shafts as it can weaken the glue. i have used this method on a predator shaft for the past 3 years with no issues.
as for wax, i dont see a need for it. in my opinion, its made for cars that are under constant weather. maybe longterm (10 plus years), it may have an advantage on the clear coat.
as for wax, i dont see a need for it. in my opinion, its made for cars that are under constant weather. maybe longterm (10 plus years), it may have an advantage on the clear coat.
