Flat Break Tip

Didn't like it, not "forgiving" at all, quite hard to have a good contact.
Break tips should have less curve than playing ones, but even this is not a "golden standard"...
 
When I install a break tip, its not a nickel. I cut it with a blade and measure/check with a Willard's shaper.

You can see a considerable amount of light between the tip and the shaper.

A very slight arc to the tip. Same with jump tips.

Once a person gets their shaft back, they are welcome to re shape it any way they like.
 
flat break tips

I have done break tipsfor a number of years and have found the best results are when the radius of a quarter works best. This seems to work whether the tip is leather or phonelic, white diamond etc. .
 
Your quarter radius would be the slight arc, yes?

Learn something new everyday. I will try a quarter up against my cut next time and have a look.
Have to save a quarter from the bar box tho. They can be a scarce commodity at my place most days.
 
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Have you ever tried this out, if so what happened?

it'll jump and break g'n great!!! super easy to control the CB after you break. i highly suggest it.round it off a little but keep it real close to flat. you won't go back to a rounded break tip after you try it
 
it'll jump and break g'n great!!! super easy to control the CB after you break. i highly suggest it.round it off a little but keep it real close to flat. you won't go back to a rounded break tip after you try it

Appreciate all your comments;

Here's what I found out, and Dr. Dave I Know won't have any info on this aspect of the pool game.
FLAT TIP....perfectly Flat, No curvature at all. I chalked up and gave it a go. I noticed right away I had lost cue ball Speed, so I focused more, slowed my swing down just a tad, but still the break Sucked, didn't have that Pop. During chalking up I noticed a horizontal line of burnishes, on the cue ball. The line ran from side to side. What I saw....was what happened when a round object hit a flat surface at high speeds. The skidding marks from the cue ball....left and right were the forces of nature trying to find the sweet spot/area of least resistance, within the leather tip. To me this means, less tip/mass/area of leather contacting the cue ball during breaking is better, it would have to lessen left to right movement, no matter how insignificant. I now sharpen my break cue tip to a point and have slowed my break swing speed down and I'm pleased. Next I'll try out a rock hard layered break tip sharp like an arrow, so to speak.
 
Appreciate all your comments;

Here's what I found out, and Dr. Dave I Know won't have any info on this aspect of the pool game.
FLAT TIP....perfectly Flat, No curvature at all. I chalked up and gave it a go. I noticed right away I had lost cue ball Speed, so I focused more, slowed my swing down just a tad, but still the break Sucked, didn't have that Pop. During chalking up I noticed a horizontal line of burnishes, on the cue ball. The line ran from side to side. What I saw....was what happened when a round object hit a flat surface at high speeds. The skidding marks from the cue ball....left and right were the forces of nature trying to find the sweet spot/area of least resistance, within the leather tip. To me this means, less tip/mass/area of leather contacting the cue ball during breaking is better, it would have to lessen left to right movement, no matter how insignificant. I now sharpen my break cue tip to a point and have slowed my break swing speed down and I'm pleased. Next I'll try out a rock hard layered break tip sharp like an arrow, so to speak.
You are correct. I don't have any info like this on my website; however, for people who want to improve their break, I would recommend following the technique advice in the videos and articles on the break technique and equipment advice resource page. I honestly think this stuff can have a much better chance of improving a person's break than changing the shape of the tip.

BTW, there is a guy in my league that uses a nearly flat tip on his playing cue. The flat tip is effective for him because he doesn't use much sidespin or draw during play and the flat tip helps create a center-ball hit even if his tip placement or stroke isn't perfect. For more info dealing with this and other effects concerning tip shape, see the cue tip shape and size effects resource page.

Regards,
Dave
 
I've used flat-ish tips at times, mostly house cues. Works ok as long as I hit center ball and make contact with the whole tip.
 
I'm just saying minimize the amount of leather contacting the cue ball and it will in turn focus more of its inertia in center' and minimize any side slide.
 
Tried it once, a former pro who did cue work told me he liked it, so I figured what the heck. I liked it and didn't like it and didn't like it for reasons that might have been remedied if I practiced with it longer.

Unfortunately I miscued bad about 3 weeks on, due to my stroke, and took a chunk off the side, so had to shape round.
 
I picked up a Dufferin house cue for breaking one time and it had an apparently new tip never shaped and very flat.

I joked that it should hit a ton, but little did I know. I won a race to 5 in 9-ball in about 3 minutes with 3 9s on the snap (all in different pockets) and 2 early 1-9s or 2-9s because the 9 had rolled over a foot corner pocket on the break and I'd pocketed one or more to have that chance.

Although the skunk set paid double I ended up losers that night. Either the racker changed something or maybe I pressed too much, and no more 9s that evening (although the flat tip was still giving me great rack action).

Now my break cues' phenolic tips are pretty flat, but not completely so.
 
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