Forearm wood?

lenoxmjs

Brazilian Rosewood Fan
Silver Member
Can Sapplee wood be used for a forearm? Not sure I spelled it right but you get the idea:)
 
i think Sapele is strong and stable enough for a forearm.it is actually stronger than people give it credit for,since it is in the Mahogany family it is viewed as a weaker wood.it is actually quite comparable to Maple in strength and weight.

as far as being spongy Joey may be right as i have never tried it before as a solid forearm.

i think it would be fine though.
 
I made one with a solid, uncored forearm a few years ago. It was fine...and still is today. Nothing wrong with the "hit" at all. Very gorgeous wood too after you get it cleared.:)
 
Is that a reasonable sum to pay for that blank? How long should it sit before turning it into a cue? Can you core it and still put ebony points and veneers?
 
Is that a reasonable sum to pay for that blank? How long should it sit before turning it into a cue? Can you core it and still put ebony points and veneers?

that is a high price to pay for that piece.that guy buys wood from Gilmer and other places and then doubles or triples or more the pruce after he cuts it into squares.

you need to ask the guy if it is dry and take his word for it.if it is completely dry when he ships it to you,i would let it acclimate to your shop for a month or two and it should be ready.

the Sapele is basically as strong as Sugar Maple in characteristcis of strength,stiffness,etc.
 
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Looks like it's a good argument if african mahogany and sapele are the same.
Or was. I guess not.
Features Of Sapele
Density(oven-dry): 43 lb/ft3
Specific Gravity (oven dry): 0.61 lbs/cu.ft.
Durability: Durable species, but not reesistant to marine borers.
Finishing: Paints and stains well, needs care
Flame spread rating: N/A
Smoke developed classification: N/A
Stifness: 1704 per 1000/psi
Bending strength : 17895 psi(Dry)
Stability:Very stable and not subject to dimensional changes once dried.
Workability: Good to work with in general, except for interlocked grains which is difficult to saw and plane.

The sapeles I've come across are dull when bounced. So I've never bought one.
 
Joey i agree,i am not crazy with the tone and i would core in my cues.even if it matches up with Maple on paper,there are some unique strength traits of maple that will probably surpass Sapele in the long run.
 
masonh said:
Joey i agree,i am not crazy with the tone and i would core in my cues.even if it matches up with Maple on paper,there are some unique strength traits of maple that will probably surpass Sapele in the long run.
No, send me those short dowels. You don't need them.
7/8 by 14-18 are fine. Tight grain and aluminum rods sounding pls.
 
i'm actually using prime shaftwood as dowells for this batch of cues.i will have some 12" pieces left over if you need them.

i really hope they turn out special b/c the thought of using $10 shafts form handles stock makes me sick.
 
masonh said:
i'm actually using prime shaftwood as dowells for this batch of cues.i will have some 12" pieces left over if you need them.

i really hope they turn out special b/c the thought of using $10 shafts form handles stock makes me sick.
12" will be too short.
I use the yellowish tight grain hard ones.
 
cored sapele

i have made 3 cues using sapele with a cored forearm, no problems as of yet. i use laminated maple, and tennon the forearm about 3 inches into the handle. it gives the cue a very nice hit imo. thanks chuck
 

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Sapele Forearm

Here is a cue I am finishing up with a Sapele forearm. It has a full length
purple heart core. IMO Sapele needs to be cored.

Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.
16-08jpeg.jpg
 
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