Full splice burl. Is it possible??

L

LittleMonster

Banned
I saw a question similar to this in another section of the forum and I thought I might be able to get a good answer here with all the cuemakers that frequent this section.

So my question is... can anyone out there actually make a full splice cue with burl as the main wood? I mean, I know burl is kinda unstable and stuff, but I was wondering if it would be possible to make a 4 point, full splice cue of burl into maple.

Can people do that? Or is it just too hard to work with?
 
I don't think making it play well would a problem. Getting the burl to stay together while cutting it for splicing will probably be the tricky part. It may take a couple of tries, and you'd run the risk of ruining some semi-expensive pieces of wood before you got one spliced. Expect the price of somthing like this to be significantly higher than your typical full splice.
 
You would want to core it prior to splicing, and then there's no guarantee that the points wouldn't break off while cutting. That's the nature of burl though... there is no prevailing grain to hold it together well.
Mr H
 
Smoknum said:
Yes its a full splice, not sure of the exact way it was constructed though.
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Not to seem rude, but do you realize what a "full splice" is, compared to a short splice? I would be willing to bet that the cue you have pictured is not a full splice like we are talking about in this thread....
Also, if you are unclear how the cue was made, the only way for you to say that's a full splice is if the cuemaker told you so. Even so, I would need clarification on that. (proof)
Beautiful cue though! :D
 
I thought it was, in DWBOD's description he said its a full splice. He seems to have dealt with alot of cues. Im probably wrong, but I could always ask Travis.

Thanks
Chuck
 
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Wouldn't burl be an odd wood to use in fullsplice since fullsplice was designed to be more stable than one-piece butts?
 
Sheldon brought up a good point on the cost of building something like this. One cuemaker accepted an order to build cue with burl, give the customer a price and took a deposit. Work in progress, he went through 3 pieces of burl wood before the cue was made good. He kept to the price as given to the customer, though the cost and labour went up. Heard this direct from the cuemaker, hope this experience helps.

I love fullsplice. What about fullsplice snakewood into purpleheart? Delicious!
 
Sheldon said:
Not to seem rude, but do you realize what a "full splice" is, compared to a short splice? I would be willing to bet that the cue you have pictured is not a full splice like we are talking about in this thread....
Also, if you are unclear how the cue was made, the only way for you to say that's a full splice is if the cuemaker told you so. Even so, I would need clarification on that. (proof)
Beautiful cue though! :D
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Looks full splice, and Travis is set up to do full splices. I'd imagine it began as full splice, or is a short full splice ending just behind the wrap, and a handle installed to be wrapped over. Wrapping over burl would be silly & costly & would do absolutely nothing to enhance playability. The way I would do it if I were Travis is make a shortened full splice where it ends just behind the wrap, or possible double splice like Davis. I'd use a straight grain hardwood in the handle & add a burl butt sleeve. So I can only assume this is how he done it. He could do this cue without full splicing, but if he's already set up for full splicing then it would only make sense that it's how he done it. I could be wrong.
 
qbilder said:
Looks full splice, and Travis is set up to do full splices. I'd imagine it began as full splice, or is a short full splice ending just behind the wrap, and a handle installed to be wrapped over. Wrapping over burl would be silly & costly & would do absolutely nothing to enhance playability. The way I would do it if I were Travis is make a shortened full splice where it ends just behind the wrap, or possible double splice like Davis. I'd use a straight grain hardwood in the handle & add a burl butt sleeve. So I can only assume this is how he done it. He could do this cue without full splicing, but if he's already set up for full splicing then it would only make sense that it's how he done it. I could be wrong.
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So I guess what you (and everyone else) are saying is, even if you can make a full splice cue out of burl, chances are it would have to be a short full splice (with a wrap).

And I'm never gonna get my wrapless, 4-point, full splice cue of burl into maple!!!

Thanks for shattering my dreams! :D


Just kidding. Thank you all for your help, your information, and your knowledge. At least its good to have an answer than to be left wondering.

You guys rock.
 
LittleMonster said:
So I guess what you (and everyone else) are saying is, even if you can make a full splice cue out of burl, chances are it would have to be a short full splice (with a wrap).

And I'm never gonna get my wrapless, 4-point, full splice cue of burl into maple!!!

Thanks for shattering my dreams! :D


Just kidding. Thank you all for your help, your information, and your knowledge. At least its good to have an answer than to be left wondering.

You guys rock.
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Not at all. It'll just be a job, that's all. If you don't mind spending the money, i'm sure it can be done. The burl you use will make a big difference, too.
 
deleted, next post is more accurate.........................
 
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Sheldon said:
Not to seem rude, but do you realize what a "full splice" is, compared to a short splice? I would be willing to bet that the cue you have pictured is not a full splice like we are talking about in this thread....
Also, if you are unclear how the cue was made, the only way for you to say that's a full splice is if the cuemaker told you so. Even so, I would need clarification on that. (proof)
Beautiful cue though! :D
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I'll quote Joel Hercek " A true full splice consists of the prongs being cut from the handle wood. The length has nothing to do with the term "Full Splice", whether you run the wood all the way to the butt or end at the handle, the technique is still the same. " If you care to differ, I'd be able to clarify your position very well !!! :)
 
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I think I may have the first full splice burl ever made in the history of billiard and rightly it's made by John Davis. Traditional full splice but cored (took several attempt but it done (About 6 months)). John did an amazing job..here's some pics:

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sharpq said:
I'll quote Joel Hercek " A true full splice consists of the prongs being cut from the handle wood. The length has nothing to do with the term "Full Splice", whether you run the wood all the way to the butt or end at the handle, the technique is still the same. " If you care to differ, I'd be able to clarify your position very well !!! :)
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Personally, I think the word "splice" covers the technique of joining the prongs to the handle but I always thought that the word "Full" was used to describe the lenght of the handle for this type of construction that primarily would be used on wrapless cue in the old day like the titlist blanks (true full splice) which I think started the fascination with full splice cue and its now sought after by many builders for conversion.

So if the word splice covers the technique, it would be logical to think short splice mean the handle was shorter but it still a true splice cue despite the shorter handle. Today, most of the cue with points are cut into wood (Milled, Recut, etc) and not spliced. I wonder how the encyclopedia of billiard describe these terms.

Regards,
Duc.
 
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sharpq said:
I'll quote Joel Hercek " A true full splice consists of the prongs being cut from the handle wood. The length has nothing to do with the term "Full Splice", whether you run the wood all the way to the butt or end at the handle, the technique is still the same. " If you care to differ, I'd be able to clarify your position very well !!! :)
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I thought I had responded to this post a couple of days ago but I must have hit the wrong key. Joel is a talented and knowledgeable cue maker but in this instance, using his own words, I believe he is mistaken. First he states that a full splice has the handle wood continue up into the prong. One piece. Then he says it can extend to the end of the cue or be cut off at the start of the handle and still be a full splice. If the latter occurs, and it is cut off at the start of the handle then the handle is another piece of material so it is not extending into the forearm. Hence the term short splice or other designation. I do agree with the term full splice as the point wood being one piece and spliced into the forearm as long as it stays one piece, immaterial how long this one piece extends behind the prong, however, if it ends at the handle it is no longer one piece but becomes a number other than one, being, an individual piece for each point.

Dick
 
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