G 10 epoxy

G

gulyassy

Custom Cues Since 1986
Silver Member
If G 10 epoxy is harder than the cue ball would it cause damage? It is a fact that G 10 is one of the most popular materials made famous by let's see, well I do not want to point any fingers but a few come to mind. It is almost unbreakable on the shaft of a cue and will create more mph than a softer material. The question that has never been tested is, can a harder material than the cue ball cause damage? Can a softer material cause damage, has not been tested either. Is there any scientists out there that can answer these most important questions?
 
G 10

Intersting question. I'm no scientist but I do enjoy destroying things. In my experience, the softer material generally loses if they are about the same size and shape. I believe a G10 tip could probably damage a cue ball. I'm not sure if a human is strong enough to make the damage occur or not? Time and repitition would probably take it's toll I suppose.
 
gulyassy said:
If G 10 epoxy is harder than the cue ball would it cause damage? It is a fact that G 10 is one of the most popular materials made famous by let's see, well I do not want to point any fingers but a few come to mind. It is almost unbreakable on the shaft of a cue and will create more mph than a softer material. The question that has never been tested is, can a harder material than the cue ball cause damage? Can a softer material cause damage, has not been tested either. Is there any scientists out there that can answer these most important questions?
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I would think that because it's harder AND more abrasive, that G-10 could definitely cause damage to a cue ball.

The abrasive quality of chalk will wear down a cueball over time. But the hard G-10 with its abrasive qualities, yeah, I think rather quickly.

Fred
 
With the topic of G10, is it true that the BCA is going to ban all G10 tips?? I know there was a debate on here before, but wasn't sure if anybody knew for sure.
 
I sent my results into the BCA rules committee many, many months ago and have not heard anything back.
 
Easy

Ask HillBilly to break a few with each. You will need alot of cueballs though. And chances are he will cuase damage no matter what you put it his hands.:D
Nick :)
 
Black-Balled said:
What were the findings? Throw us a bone......
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Hmm....let's see. The guy with the patent on the one-piece canvas based phenolic tip/ferrule sent results to the BCA regarding the tip hardness of the X-breaker and other competitor's G-10 break cues. What do you think it says? The G-10 is superior in every way?

Seeing as this directly affects his livelihood, I'm going to say his report says G-10 damages the cueball, caused cancer, and also is responsible for the deaths of baby seals.

I say ban all phenolics. Leather only. Really easy to enforce that one. We can't say that "certain phenolics are good and certain are bad. All some cuemaker will end up doing is sleeving canvas phenolic over G10, and tint it. The outside walls will be canvas, the contact point will be G10. Are we going to start sanding tests before the tourneys? Like I said, make the ruling that leather is the only tip allowed on a breaker or jumper.
 
Shawn Armstrong said:
Hmm....let's see. The guy with the patent on the one-piece canvas based phenolic tip/ferrule sent results to the BCA regarding the tip hardness of the X-breaker and other competitor's G-10 break cues. What do you think it says? The G-10 is superior in every way?

Seeing as this directly affects his livelihood, I'm going to say his report says G-10 damages the cueball, caused cancer, and also is responsible for the deaths of baby seals.

I say ban all phenolics. Leather only. Really easy to enforce that one. We can't say that "certain phenolics are good and certain are bad. All some cuemaker will end up doing is sleeving canvas phenolic over G10, and tint it. The outside walls will be canvas, the contact point will be G10. Are we going to start sanding tests before the tourneys? Like I said, make the ruling that leather is the only tip allowed on a breaker or jumper.
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tap tap tap
 
Shawn Armstrong said:
Hmm....let's see. The guy with the patent on the one-piece canvas based phenolic tip/ferrule sent results to the BCA regarding the tip hardness of the X-breaker and other competitor's G-10 break cues. What do you think it says? The G-10 is superior in every way?

Seeing as this directly affects his livelihood, I'm going to say his report says G-10 damages the cueball, caused cancer, and also is responsible for the deaths of baby seals.

I say ban all phenolics. Leather only. Really easy to enforce that one. We can't say that "certain phenolics are good and certain are bad. All some cuemaker will end up doing is sleeving canvas phenolic over G10, and tint it. The outside walls will be canvas, the contact point will be G10. Are we going to start sanding tests before the tourneys? Like I said, make the ruling that leather is the only tip allowed on a breaker or jumper.
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we can say that certain phenolics are harder than the cue ball and certain phenolics are softer than the cue ball. we can also say that I offered no opinion to the rules committee one way or the other, but gave the results of tests for them to decide, someone had to do it.
 
gulyassy said:
we can say that certain phenolics are harder than the cue ball and certain phenolics are softer than the cue ball. we can also say that I offered no opinion to the rules committee one way or the other, but gave the results of tests for them to decide, someone had to do it.
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I could offer them data regarding leather versus phenolics. The problem is that unless someone has a way of testing the hardness of the phenolic on-site, there will always be the ability to cheat. Make it "leather only" and that would be hard to do. Sand it - what does it smell like?

If G-10 is banned, all it would take is some person doing a little more research into other rolled phenolics or other plastics to find another material that could be passed off as phenolic. Better to ban them all than to ban a certain few.
 
It's the glass fibers that make it abrasive:
FR4 / G10 - GAROLITE SHEET
Description: G10-FR4 (FR4) is a fire rated electrical-grade dielectric made with and epoxy material reinforced with a woven fiberglass mat. FR-4 is an abbreviation for Flame Resistant 4. FR-4 is commonly used in printed circuit boards. FR4 material conforms to the requirements of military specification Mil P 13949 Type F, MIL-S-13949/04 GF/GFN/GFK and Mil I 24768/27 and is rated UL 94V-O. FR4 material is also known as Garolite.
 
LAMas said:
It's the glass fibers that make it abrasive:
FR4 / G10 - GAROLITE SHEET
Description: G10-FR4 (FR4) is a fire rated electrical-grade dielectric made with and epoxy material reinforced with a woven fiberglass mat. FR-4 is an abbreviation for Flame Resistant 4. FR-4 is commonly used in printed circuit boards. FR4 material conforms to the requirements of military specification Mil P 13949 Type F, MIL-S-13949/04 GF/GFN/GFK and Mil I 24768/27 and is rated UL 94V-O. FR4 material is also known as Garolite.
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Thank you sir.
 
g10`

Here we go again. The big g10 controversey. If you don't use it, find something wrong with it. What about all the other phenolic products out there? I have a couple hundred balls and cue balls in my shop from all periods of billiard history and there are chips all over them. These were all from a time when g10 wasn't used. So what is the excuse about them? Balls banging into each other chip each other. One is no harder than the other. Butterflycues
 
gulyassy said:
If G 10 epoxy is harder than the cue ball would it cause damage? It is a fact that G 10 is one of the most popular materials made famous by let's see, well I do not want to point any fingers but a few come to mind. It is almost unbreakable on the shaft of a cue and will create more mph than a softer material. The question that has never been tested is, can a harder material than the cue ball cause damage? Can a softer material cause damage, has not been tested either. Is there any scientists out there that can answer these most important questions?
Click to expand...

Perhaps you can use Moh's hardness scale(a method of rating the hardness of minerals.) :smile:
 
LAMas said:
It's the glass fibers that make it abrasive:
FR4 / G10 - ....
Click to expand...

Correct, it's the glass, and it is very abrasive (which is why PCB manufacturers price boards by the hole, they chew up carbide drill bits at a rapid rate).

So what about not using the glass reinforcement, rather use unreinforced epoxy ? It should work fine, just like the poured epoxy faces in older persimmon (wood) driver heads. Pounding away at a golf ball would seem to me to be more punishing than breaking racks of 8/9 ball, and face inserts last a long time.

Call me crazy if you want to, I've been called worse :cool:

Dave
 
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