glue for coring
- Thread starter Fish
- Start date
Fish said:
I, myself, use West System Epoxy. Thin, very strong and adheres to most oily hard woods. Regular wood glues are usually stronger than the woods they usually are connecting but I don't want to take a chance of getting a buzz between the dowel and outer wood.
Dick
I just bought a few cored fronts that used polyurathene glue, and tried it myself this past weekend on 3 fronts. If you follow the directions carefully to LIGHTLY moisten the dowel, then coat the crap out of the dowel and cored front, then assemble, they came out great. I bounced them on end on the concrete floor, they had a nice ring, no buzz or deadness.
One advantage, alot cheaper to buy, and no mixing, etc.
Just my 2.5 cents.
Dave
One advantage, alot cheaper to buy, and no mixing, etc.
Just my 2.5 cents.
Dave
Glue for coring
Hi Dave,
Unfortunately, Polyurethane glue is extremely weak, especially where there is a loose fit between the pieces. West System is the best glue for this application, and Type I PVA glue such as Titebond III is also an excellent choice, if you are looking for a glue without mixing, I would suggest that for gluing in your cores.
Fine Woodworking Magazine did an article in August 2007 which tested many different types of glues with tight, med and loose fitting joints, Polyurethane glue faired the worst on all materials except Ipe, the brand was "Gorilla Glue" which is the most common. Titebond III was actually best glue overall with slow setting T-88 2-part epoxy coming in just behind it. The testing facility was the Department of Engineering and Science at the Case Western Reserve University of Cleveland and tested on an Instron testing machine with very accurate results.
Have Fun,
Mike
Dave38 said:I just bought a few cored fronts that used polyurathene glue, and tried it myself this past weekend on 3 fronts. If you follow the directions carefully to LIGHTLY moisten the dowel, then coat the crap out of the dowel and cored front, then assemble, they came out great. I bounced them on end on the concrete floor, they had a nice ring, no buzz or deadness.
One advantage, alot cheaper to buy, and no mixing, etc.
Just my 2.5 cents.
Dave
Hi Dave,
Unfortunately, Polyurethane glue is extremely weak, especially where there is a loose fit between the pieces. West System is the best glue for this application, and Type I PVA glue such as Titebond III is also an excellent choice, if you are looking for a glue without mixing, I would suggest that for gluing in your cores.
Fine Woodworking Magazine did an article in August 2007 which tested many different types of glues with tight, med and loose fitting joints, Polyurethane glue faired the worst on all materials except Ipe, the brand was "Gorilla Glue" which is the most common. Titebond III was actually best glue overall with slow setting T-88 2-part epoxy coming in just behind it. The testing facility was the Department of Engineering and Science at the Case Western Reserve University of Cleveland and tested on an Instron testing machine with very accurate results.
Have Fun,
Mike
The brand of poly glue I use is Elmers, but that probably doesn't matter that much. So far, it's done verey well for me.Pancerny said:
I've used Titebond III once, and boy was it a B**^h, I had to use a mallet to get the core dowel all the way thru, and it barely made it thru even with that. It has a quick set time, with a great grab factor, which works great in most apps, but for core glueing, I won't use it again unless I have a big press setup for it.
Dave
When using PVA, if your tolerances are correct for the hole and dowel, by the time you have them coated with glue, they will have swelled up so much that they won't go together. Pressing the parts togethwer will drive most of the glue out the other end and can compromise the joint.
rhncue said:
Dick, good to see you back. I was wondering if you would have any trouble with the West System being too thin. Wouldn't the epoxy run out while waiting for the epoxy to dry? I have always wondered if you let cored fronts lay on the side to dry, wouldn't the core sagg to the bottom side due to gravity?
Just for the record, I use Gorilla glue, but always looking for better ways.
Jim.
Hi Paul,
I have actually never tried the Titebond III for coring so thanks for the information. The West System is what I prefer as well since it is nice and thin, of course it will thicken up in about 20 minutes or so to the point where you may not be able to push the core through the forearm as well.
I have attached the link for the article, it's an interesting read, basically I don't plan to use Polyurethane glue again after reading this. I liked it for the gap filling but was not aware how weak it was until I read the article.
http://www.titebond.com/Download/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf
Enjoy the read all,
Mike
I have actually never tried the Titebond III for coring so thanks for the information. The West System is what I prefer as well since it is nice and thin, of course it will thicken up in about 20 minutes or so to the point where you may not be able to push the core through the forearm as well.
I have attached the link for the article, it's an interesting read, basically I don't plan to use Polyurethane glue again after reading this. I liked it for the gap filling but was not aware how weak it was until I read the article.
http://www.titebond.com/Download/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf
Enjoy the read all,
Mike
I have used both epoxy and poly depending on the wood I am using, To be honest, I can't tell the difference in the finished product. It's a long time before I use either set up for construction, does that play a role in the equation?
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Elmer's poly its cheaper and works the same as gorilla glue moisten the dowel
masonh said:
Maybe application is also a key. Does anyone thread their cores?
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only one i know is Black Boar and i think it is only a partial thread.
i read in another thread a few guys were saying that the West was too thin for glueing b/c it soaked into the wood and left air pockets.what does everyone think the perfect viscosity is for core and a-joint gluing?
i am using something similar to West now and i use the fast hardener and the viscosity is 950 centipose.slightly thicker than the West fast hardner,and i really can't see it being too thin,in fact i wish it was more like the West medium hardener,which is in the 700 cps range.anyway,the bond strength is almost 3000 psi stronger than West system and it has a higher temp rating too.lost of people think the slow setting varieties are stronger but the fast setting ones actually set up tougher,if you don't mind a 10-15 minute window for the pot.
i read in another thread a few guys were saying that the West was too thin for glueing b/c it soaked into the wood and left air pockets.what does everyone think the perfect viscosity is for core and a-joint gluing?
i am using something similar to West now and i use the fast hardener and the viscosity is 950 centipose.slightly thicker than the West fast hardner,and i really can't see it being too thin,in fact i wish it was more like the West medium hardener,which is in the 700 cps range.anyway,the bond strength is almost 3000 psi stronger than West system and it has a higher temp rating too.lost of people think the slow setting varieties are stronger but the fast setting ones actually set up tougher,if you don't mind a 10-15 minute window for the pot.
http://www.systemthree.com/members/tds/T-88_TDS.pdf
May not be the strongest in testing labs but has pretty much met 98% of the needs and requirements for my cue construction techniques.
May not be the strongest in testing labs but has pretty much met 98% of the needs and requirements for my cue construction techniques.
I use T88 too for cores and buttsleeves.BarenbruggeCues said:
I heard you epoxy dogbones to the ground with T-88 just to be mean to your dogs.
I'm calling PETA.