Glue Line on Ferrule

lockwood

lockwood
Silver Member
Hi,
After installing a new tip on the lathe, I always get a glue line where the tape ends. What is the best way to remove this CA glue line from the ferrule?
Thanks,
Jonathan Smith
 
Hi,
After installing a new tip on the lathe, I always get a glue line where the tape ends. What is the best way to remove this CA glue line from the ferrule?
Thanks,
Jonathan Smith
I am totally puzzled about why tape is being used in a tip installation. But concerning CA giving a glue line, I am guessing that means the ferrule is stained? If so, the first thing to do when installing a tip is to sand the ferrule with fine grit sand paper to make sure the surface is totally clean. If you leave the chalk dust on the ferrule the CA glue could soak or burn that chalk dust into the ferrule permanently. Wipe all excess glue off of the ferrule while the glue is still wet and then lightly sand it after the tip is trimmed down. And get rid of the tape.
 
Glue on Ferrules?

Dear Chris,
I started using tape when brown gunk from the sides of Le Pro tips would get all over the ferrule. Then I would have to sand the whole ferrule to get it clean.
I wanted to avoid this especially when working on Predator Shafts with their melt-able plastic ferrules. Is their a chemical that removes CA glues?
Thanks,
Jon
 
Any chemical that would remove hardened cyanoacrylate would dissolve the ferrule.

Clean the ferrule before glueing. Try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. You probably won't have to sand.
 
Any chemical that would remove hardened cyanoacrylate would dissolve the ferrule.

Clean the ferrule before glueing. Try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. You probably won't have to sand.

I used to have that problem when I first started out but now I always clean the ferrule's with a magic eraser before glueing on a tip and I never get a glue line at all anymore magic eraser is the ticket :thumbup: ..<< ED
 
Is their a chemical that removes CA glues?

Yes, Acetone. It will also melt any ferrule material as well.

Best used for guys like me that get CA on their fingers.

I swipe a bit of CA on the bottom of a tip before installing.
Many tips can wick up a small amount of CA. It looks like a tip pad actually but I'd rather
have that glue line that looks like a tip pad than have a tip pop off.
 
Last edited:
Hi,
After installing a new tip on the lathe, I always get a glue line where the tape ends. What is the best way to remove this CA glue line from the ferrule?
Thanks,
Jonathan Smith

I use the magic erraser to clean the ferrule before removing the tip.
Then I wrap ptfe tape-plumbers tape over the front of the ferrule and up to the tip.When wrapped tightly, no glue will get under the tape and onto the ferrule outer diameter.
I have a blade mounted on a tool holder, I part off the existing tip, face the ferrule, then glue on the new tip and trim.
I do it this way so that the tip installation is done with no paper rubbing or touching the ferrule.

Neil
 
I use the magic erraser to clean the ferrule before removing the tip.
Then I wrap ptfe tape-plumbers tape over the front of the ferrule and up to the tip.When wrapped tightly, no glue will get under the tape and onto the ferrule outer diameter.
I have a blade mounted on a tool holder, I part off the existing tip, face the ferrule, then glue on the new tip and trim.
I do it this way so that the tip installation is done with no paper rubbing or touching the ferrule.

Neil

i use a similar process....i never touch the ferrule at all. i've seen ferrules become cone shaped over time from people sanding away at the ferrule, presumably to blend the tip into the ferrule or removing glue, etc.
 
I used to have that problem when I first started out but now I always clean the ferrule's with a magic eraser before glueing on a tip and I never get a glue line at all anymore magic eraser is the ticket :thumbup: ..<< ED

Magic eraser on the ferule works real well for cleaning off chalk residue that has impregnated the ferule. As for sanding the tip to blend it to the ferule, I reverse my motor and do a blade drag starting at the ferule thru the end of the tip. This blade drag is tricky to learn at first but with some practice one can do it confidently and accurately. As for ferules that are soft and will fluff when heated, don't heat them. Hit them and pause , hit them and pause, keep the temp down!
 
I never use the tape, just clean beforehand and not sand into the ferrule so that dust from the tip does not get pulled back and trapped into it. I have seen instructional videos that recommend using tape though. As far as tapering the ferrule, I don't have that issue, although I only do the bare bare minimum It's takes to get the job done, and since the ferrule was clean to begin with, I do not have to sand to get the dust out. Also the CA left could change the sanding rate at the end, and that could be providing some assistance there with that. All I know is that I am not loosing any major amount of diameter per say at the end of the ferrule. With that said I have thought about trying the tape before I ever saw it done. I just never got around to trying it.

Greg
 
I put a small amount of petroleum jelly on the ferrule, being careful not to get it on the top of the ferrule. After the ca has set up , just wipe it off. Nice and easy. No glue line. No sanding.
 
glue lines

After cleaning the ferrule with mr. Eraser and before removing the old tip, i apply a thin coat of shaft sealer on the ferrule. This works for me. Anybody else doing this?
 
I use dial indicators to check the runout of the cue in the lathe. Once I get it straight I can use the cutter to cut the tip to a couple thousandths of an inch from flush without touching the ferrule. Then, I use sandpaper to cut it the rest of the way while avoiding touching the ferrule with the paper. I clean the ferrule before I start cutting the old tip off.
 
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