Glue question

Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
The other repair person in town called and asked a general question re glue.

He mainly makes conversions and installs a small brass plate with his logo on the butt section.

He routers a small part to fit the plate and uses 5 minute epoxy.
He is getting air bubbles after he presses the plate in.

I mentioned that he might try slow curing epoxy, mix the heck out of it and
use heat to pop the bubbles. I thought that a heat gun might provide enuff heat for a small area.

Just wondering if any of the cue makers might have a better solution, re glue
etc, or any tricks of the trade that might make it a bit easier.

Thanks,
Terry.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
The other repair person in town called and asked a general question re glue.

He mainly makes conversions and installs a small brass plate with his logo on the butt section.

He routers a small part to fit the plate and uses 5 minute epoxy.
He is getting air bubbles after he presses the plate in.

I mentioned that he might try slow curing epoxy, mix the heck out of it and
use heat to pop the bubbles. I thought that a heat gun might provide enuff heat for a small area.

Just wondering if any of the cue makers might have a better solution, re glue
etc, or any tricks of the trade that might make it a bit easier.

Thanks,
Terry.
Click to expand...

I am not a cuemaker (as you know I can barely USE a cue) ... but .... one way to fix this problem might be "vacuum bagging".

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Vacuum-Bagging-Techniques.pdf

Dave
 
I keep an assortment of small zip-lock bags to mix epoxy.
I use the smallest bag I can, put the two parts in the bag, then remove all the air from the bag when closing it.
Mix by kneading the bag, then cut a corner of the bag and squeeze the mixed, bubble-free epoxy wherever you want it.
 
Use a slow set epoxy.
WARM the two parts BEFORE mixing .
It'll flow much better.
I'm assuming the brass is clean.
 
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First, I wouldn't use a quick set epoxy for metal. In my experiences, it will not hold up over time. Second, use the slowest setting epoxy he can find.
 
24 hr epox

i mix my 24 hr epox in the small cups found at walmart, normally used as mouth wash bathroom cuos, they are 2 bucks for a 100. i mix warm with craft sticks also found at walmart.
stir slow, and breath on the mixture, very slow long breaths as i rotate the cup. it is not the heat but the carbon dioxide that dissipates the air bubbles, let it set for about 5 min then breath on it again. [ btw turn your head in you inhale, but that is another story]. as the mixture is resting you can see the air bubbles rising to the top, when the mixture is clear you are good to go.

later chuck
 
howiesatwork said:
I keep an assortment of small zip-lock bags to mix epoxy.
I use the smallest bag I can, put the two parts in the bag, then remove all the air from the bag when closing it.
Mix by kneading the bag, then cut a corner of the bag and squeeze the mixed, bubble-free epoxy wherever you want it.
Click to expand...
Now I have to go try this. If this works out this may be the best post on AZ ever for those of us who use Cue Cote epoxy for a finish. Thanks for sharing.
 
bubbles

I get the bubbles out of epoxy and epoxy finish by putting the mixed epoxy into a canister and hooking it up to a vacuum pump. My canister has a glass top and I can see the bubbles rise to the top and pop.

A mason jar would also work. Warming the epoxy also helps.

I had a problem with bubbles in my epoxy finish until I started doing this. Now... no more bubbles.

Kim
 
I agree with the warming of the epoxy first. I would recommend using a fast drying sealer in the pocket first, like thin Cyno, then install the plate using slow set epoxy that has been warmed
I wouldn't use a heat gun, as this blows air, and any dust particles into the epoxy. Another reason that can cause bubbles to form is the wood itself. Depending on the wood type, as the epoxy seeps into the wood, it can push air pockets outward. especially if using a heat source to pop other bubbles. I would end up with more bubbles after using a torch then when I started. I noticed it more on woods like zebrawood, purpleheart, and a lot of burls also. The heat will cause the air in the wood to expand and it comes up through the epoxy and sits on the surface.Just my expriences.
Dave
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I will pass the info on to Vic and I know he will be most appreciative as well. He's a bit reclusive when it comes to computers but I'm trying to lure him over here.

I will also try the mixing bag trick some time myself.
Dave, That makes sense to not use a heat gun. Thanks,
Chuck, I'd like to hear the story about inhaling epoxy fumes sometime. Thanks.
 
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What DESI 2960 said about carbon dioxide is true, when i sealed a large desk / bar. I would start with a very thin coat of epoxy. let dry to seal the wood from air releasing from the surface. Lightly sand then pour on the self leaving coat. when bubbles occur i use a acetylene bottle waving over top and it would look like glass when completed. Sorry for getting of of topic. But the carbon dioxide works and i did it a few times.
 
Thats quite alright bud. Every bit helps. There was a video on that type of epoxy. I don't think it was West System but another like it. They showed it being used on a table and then using a blow torch to finish it. Quite intersting to watch.
 
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