Glueing tip to the ferrule

the_saint_siwa

the_saint_siwa

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Good morning,

I would like to ask opinion regarding this matter. There is one cue repair guy in my area. Almost everytime he installed a tip, the tip came off and he always blame it on something.

The other day he installed a tip on my break cue and it came off after 2 break!!! I went back to him and he said that my ferrule isn't compatible with the tip, IE I have a cheap ferrule. He suggested me to replace my current ferrule which of course he will charge

In your opinion does a cheap ferrule can cause a cue tip to improperly installed? My break cue is just a Players JB cue.

Thank you.
 
Some ferrules present more of a challenge to get a tip to hold. I have to be careful tipping a predator shaft because of similar problems, but with help of the pros here that is in the past. But if he is a decent repair person he will try a different adhesive/technique and solve your problem , not just throw more repairs at you! Keep looking for another tech.
 
There are probably more cheap cues/ferrules being used in pool rooms and bars around the country than anything else. I do a lot of these and don't have any problems to speak of. You should try someone else and see if you get better results.
John
 
Helpful Hint

the_saint_siwa said:
Good morning,

I would like to ask opinion regarding this matter. There is one cue repair guy in my area. Almost everytime he installed a tip, the tip came off and he always blame it on something.

The other day he installed a tip on my break cue and it came off after 2 break!!! I went back to him and he said that my ferrule isn't compatible with the tip, IE I have a cheap ferrule. He suggested me to replace my current ferrule which of course he will charge

In your opinion does a cheap ferrule can cause a cue tip to improperly installed? My break cue is just a Players JB cue.

Thank you.
Click to expand...
How about ask him to buy some "Loctite 454" glue, that works very well with all ferrule. Try atlas billiard they have some.:D
 
There could be other factors envolved that your repair person is not aware of, so because you asked the question, I will leave it to you to educate him if you choose to. Most slip on ferrules do loosen, on a break cue you may want to change it anyway, but different ferrule material may require different speeds in facing off the ferrule to apply the tip. Soft ferrules such as Predator, Meucci, Cutec and some fibers should be faced off on slower speeds than Melamine because the ferrule will actually heat up on faster speeds. Anyone can have a tip come off, Things happen, but I think it's more of being aware of what material you are working with.
 
the_saint_siwa said:
There is one cue repair guy in my area. Almost everytime he installed a tip, the tip came off and he always blame it on something.

The other day he installed a tip on my break cue and it came off after 2 break!!!
Thank you.
Click to expand...
I agree with the suggestions above. I am also happy to verify that I have had success over the years with the way Mike Webb just described regarding how to handle the different types of ferrules.

But, my question is, based on what I quoted you as saying above...

...why do you continue to go to him for your work? I'm assuming he is the only one in your area. True?

Gene
 
Cuedog said:
But, my question is, based on what I quoted you as saying above...

...why do you continue to go to him for your work? I'm assuming he is the only one in your area. True?

Gene
Click to expand...

I know it!!! Eventually someone will ask me this q. The answer is he's only 5-10 mins away from my house. The one that I really trust lives 2 hrs away, which means 4 hrs round trip. I do however try to go to the one that I trust but I just wonder why can't this guy do the same quality work like the other guy. I mean both of them seem using the same type of glue.

Thank you.
 
the_saint_siwa said:
I know it!!! Eventually someone will ask me this q. The answer is he's only 5-10 mins away from my house. The one that I really trust lives 2 hrs away, which means 4 hrs round trip. I do however try to go to the one that I trust but I just wonder why can't this guy do the same quality work like the other guy. I mean both of them seem using the same type of glue.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Knowledge is the separating factor. So out of convenience you can help educate him or eliminate him.
 
Or you could ship it to any cuemaker of your choice and have it done correctly. Depending on type of shipping you would only be without it for 2-4 days.;)
 
Is the tip just popping off, or is the tip ripping apart? What machinery is he using? Learn to install your own tips, it's not that hard without a lathe it just takes a little time and patience. I even think someone made a step by step post on how to do it, will try to find it for you.
 
> As Mike correctly mentioned,some ferrule materials have idiosyncrasies. CueTech ferrules,along with some other imports,are made from a waxy plastic,causing the repairman to use a different glue on occasion. Meucci ferrules are thin-walled and more of the tip glues to the larger tenon than the plastic,occasionally leaving an unglued ring around the tip the same width as the ferrule walls,usually seen when removing the old tip.

How many tips does this guy do? Does he do enough for him to warrant the cost of rotating his glue stock? Sometimes,CA glues go bad after a while,and he may have unknowingly used bad glue,causing the failure. It's happened to me a couple times,and you can tell it was the glue because it popped off clean,with nothing left of the tip. I don't do half as many tips as most here,and still pitch my glues after a month or so. My area is so small the whole town would know if I had tips popping off later that day if I didn't cover the problem. I cover glue failures at no charge,but I tell my customers that cues left in their car or dropped are NOT covered,and I can tell if that was the case or not.


He may not have accurately faced the ferrule,leaving a high spot in the middle,or something else that caused an uneven surface. The back of the tip may not have been flat either. I use a ground steel plate 3/8 thick,and use adhesive backed 150 stuck to the plate to sand them,then clean them up further with a similar plate with 320 on it. I also seal the backs with thin CA,in the Searing method. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
>
How many tips does this guy do? Does he do enough for him to warrant the cost of rotating his glue stock? Sometimes,CA glues go bad after a while,and he may have unknowingly used bad glue,causing the failure. It's happened to me a couple times,and you can tell it was the glue because it popped off clean,with nothing left of the tip. I don't do half as many tips as most here,and still pitch my glues after a month or so.
Click to expand...

Good point Tommy...It's wise to keep the glue in the refrigerator when storing it after it's opened to prolong the life of the glue. The CA glues aren't effective if kept for a long period of time once they're opened.

Curly
 
curly said:
Good point Tommy...It's wise to keep the glue in the refrigerator when storing it after it's opened to prolong the life of the glue. The CA glues aren't effective if kept for a long period of time once they're opened.

Curly
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You don't put CA's in the fridge AFTER it's been opened as far as I know.
Only BEFORE it's opened.
 
Storing CA's

JoeyInCali said:
You don't put CA's in the fridge AFTER it's been opened as far as I know.
Only BEFORE it's opened.
Click to expand...

You're right Joey...UNOPENED tubes not opened ones. Here's what the "glue guy" said:

"1) Storage
New, unopened containers of any instant glue may be stored in the freezer (at or below 32 degreesF. to double shelf life. Always allow the container to warm to room temperature before opening. Once opened, never return to cold storage.
Why ?
Moisture is one of the catalysts. Opening a cold bottle or placing a previously opened bottle back in cold storage causes the warm air that has entered the bottle, (carrying moisture with it), to condense the moisture into water. This has a negative effect on shelf life causing the contents of the bottle to thicken and eventually harden and causes the spout to clog very frequently. The thicker these glues become, from the original viscosity, the more frequently clogs occur. Note: This is not to say that the gap filling versions are more likely to clog. "
From link: http://www.theglueguy.com/protocols.htm

Thanks for the correction.
Curly
 
454, proper facing & prep, & sometimes decreasing the clamping force while glueing helps in severe cases.

I had this problem with one guy that had a Z-shaft. I had probably ten other of the same kind of shafts I was taking care of for people also, and at the time only had issues with this one guys shaft, even though they should have been the same ferrule material. I finally solved the problem, but I think what actually helped was less clamping force.Thankfully He stuck by me because of previous work I had done for him, and he was really happy with My shaftwork. It happened twice with the same shaft until I finally found something that worked. I don't usually have those kinds of issues, so It was embarasing to me trying to explain It. I say Give the guy a chance, pass on what info you can, or send him here to read the archives if he has access to the web. It can happen to anyone at times. If it happens all the time with most tips and ferrules then that may be a different thing though.

Another thing I have done before Is to clean the surfaces with accelerator, and let them dry before glueing. I don't know why, but It really seems to help, and usually the tip will rip before coming loose.

Greg
 
the_saint_siwa said:
Good morning,

I would like to ask opinion regarding this matter. There is one cue repair guy in my area. Almost everytime he installed a tip, the tip came off and he always blame it on something.

The other day he installed a tip on my break cue and it came off after 2 break!!! I went back to him .
Click to expand...

My suggestion: don't go back to him.

Fred
 
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