Glues

S

sethjames303

Banned
I was working a local tournament yesterday and I ran into a lot of problems with glueing on an elkmaster tip. I had the toughest time just getting the tip to stick to the shaft. I've been using Gorlilla super glue for awhile and I've never had the problems I did yesterday, but yesterday was the first elkmaster tip in the past 15 years that I put on. It did finally stick but I had to first coat the back of the tip with a little glue let it dry scuff it up then try to glue it to the shaft. It took almost a half hour for this one tip. What glue should I be using for the tips. I've had great luck with Gorilla super glue.
 
Glue not fresh or Chinese cue with mystery ferrule I tried the Gorilla glue went back to Loctite gel but I still like CC tough tip the best
 
sethjames303 said:
I was working a local tournament yesterday and I ran into a lot of problems with glueing on an elkmaster tip. I had the toughest time just getting the tip to stick to the shaft. I've been using Gorlilla super glue for awhile and I've never had the problems I did yesterday, but yesterday was the first elkmaster tip in the past 15 years that I put on. It did finally stick but I had to first coat the back of the tip with a little glue let it dry scuff it up then try to glue it to the shaft. It took almost a half hour for this one tip. What glue should I be using for the tips. I've had great luck with Gorilla super glue.
Click to expand...

I tried it (GG super glue) and it worked fine for a few tips and then it seemed to have trouble setting up and holding the tip on.

I stopped using it for tips. Loctite gel seems to be the best. Some mystery ferrules are hard to get CA to stick and I have replaced a few because of it.

Also some tips need sanding and then a coat of thin CA to seal them. After that soaks in and dries, lightly sand and then use the CA gel.

Kim
 
sethjames303 said:
I was working a local tournament yesterday and I ran into a lot of problems with glueing on an elkmaster tip. I had the toughest time just getting the tip to stick to the shaft. I've been using Gorlilla super glue for awhile and I've never had the problems I did yesterday, but yesterday was the first elkmaster tip in the past 15 years that I put on. It did finally stick but I had to first coat the back of the tip with a little glue let it dry scuff it up then try to glue it to the shaft. It took almost a half hour for this one tip. What glue should I be using for the tips. I've had great luck with Gorilla super glue.
Click to expand...

I have used the GG before and it seemed good at first but then I started having a few tips pop off. Went back to loctite rubber toughened gel and have not had a tip come loose in over two years now.
 
Like any of the cyano glues, they need to be fresh from manufacture. Some stores have a slow turnover with the super glues and can easily be more than a year old from the packing date.
You want the glue to be less than 1 year from the packing date. I now look for glue that is less than 8 months old. So now, I am looking for stuff newer than 11-11
It seems no matter the brand, after it has been opened more than 6 weeks you are on borrowed time with it for keeping tips on.
This shows that the cyano although it works, needs to be at least 85% of maximum strength, or else it will fail.
In high humidity conditions, you will get less open time with the cyano compared to low humidity conditions.
I had a tube of 454 that was 2 years old, but then I was unaware of the shelf life of cyano glues. It did not work very well from the get go.
I only use cyano if the customers are in a hurry and are ok with it.
Most want them glued with 24 hr epoxy and no sanding of any grit on the ferrule.
Neil
 
I use both the loctite 454, and the store bought gel, they both work well for me, providing the glue is not old or bad as already mentioned. I've had luck by hatch marking the faces of those waxy mystery ferrules before gluing the tips on. If I foresee any possible issues, then I may even clean the face with a little denatured, and let It evaporate, before making lite hatch marks in the face. I really more less scratch the hatch lines in with the tip of My utility blade rather then cutting, because I don't want to create a weak point that can form into a crack. Also I don't want to over do It, and have issues with the tip not sitting flat to the face.

Sandpaper may do the same thing, I just never use It for fear of knocking the corners off, or knocking the face out of square.
 
I use a little thin CA on the ferrule and scuff it with sandpaper.
I use thin CA on the tip. I put the tip on a small hobby anvil and light tap it with a tip *****er (about the only thing it is good for). I scuff the back of the tip.
Check the tip against the ferrule for being square.
Use Loc Tite.

Just like Ole Grand Pappy taught me. Well he used sap from a tree to glue tips on but that was before all these new fancy new fangled glues came about.
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
I use a little thin CA on the ferrule and scuff it with sandpaper.
I use thin CA on the tip. I put the tip on a small hobby anvil and light tap it with a tip *****er (about the only thing it is good for). I scuff the back of the tip.
Check the tip against the ferrule for being square.
Use Loc Tite.

Just like Ole Grand Pappy taught me. Well he used sap from a tree to glue tips on but that was before all these new fancy new fangled glues came about.
Click to expand...


Like Blue said, some tips are pretty porous and can have a tendency to soak up the glue, thereby starving the joint. I had issues with Kamuis until a method was shared with me here.

1. sand flat(I use 400). I will also scuff the ferrule very lightly.
2. clean tip and apply a drop of thin cyano. Normally one drop does it. I had one Kamui black(S) that was a COMPLETE sponge and, after 6 drops I tossed it.
3. let it dry of course, then lightly sand again. This should have filled the pores for the most part and provided a better surface for the glue.
4. Install..

I haven't had a problem with any tip since...
 
Guys you're talking about manual instalation or lathe? How do you scuff the tip, with what? Also the ferrule...

Thanks,
Chris
 
devorator said:
Guys you're talking about manual instalation or lathe? How do you scuff the tip, with what? Also the ferrule...

Thanks,
Chris
Click to expand...

I use a piece of 220 paper and rub the tip in a circle to scuff the glue side. The paper needs to be on some thing really flat. I use a 1 ft sq marble floor tile from Lowes.... $2. They are machined/ground flatter than a platter of piiiisss.

KIm
 
pescadoman said:
Like Blue said, some tips are pretty porous and can have a tendency to soak up the glue, thereby starving the joint. I had issues with Kamuis until a method was shared with me here.

1. sand flat(I use 400). I will also scuff the ferrule very lightly.
2. clean tip and apply a drop of thin cyano. Normally one drop does it. I had one Kamui black(S) that was a COMPLETE sponge and, after 6 drops I tossed it.
3. let it dry of course, then lightly sand again. This should have filled the pores for the most part and provided a better surface for the glue.
4. Install..

I haven't had a problem with any tip since...
Click to expand...


What you said except..

I make a puddle of thin CA on the whole bottom of the tip and let it soak in and dry. Moori and Kamui especially.....

Kim
 
sealing tips

The first 45 seconds of this video shows a simple way to apply the CA to the back of your tip. You don't have to completely saturate the leather...all you have to do is seal it to prevent further wicking action when installing the tip on the ferrule.
 
whammo57 said:
What you said except..

I make a puddle of thin CA on the whole bottom of the tip and let it soak in and dry. Moori and Kamui especially.....

Kim
Click to expand...

After roughing the back of the tip, I put a drop of thin CA on an index card and then run the tip over the card in a circular motion for a few seconds. Once I'm sure tha CA is perfectly dry, I sand again very lightly until the shine from the CA is gone. (I use 220 grit glued to a block of perfectly flat hardwood).

I started doing this about a year ago after reading a thread on AZB. It works great and the tips stay put. :cool:
 
I've never had a tip come off. I use loctite gel that I keep in a fridge. That seems to greatly increase shelf life.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
 
Is glue, glue?

I bought 5 tubes of superglue for £1 from a discount store the other day - it contains CA etc. So, is glue, glue, or does it matter what brand it is?
 
TheThaiger said:
Is glue, glue?

I bought 5 tubes of superglue for £1 from a discount store the other day - it contains CA etc. So, is glue, glue, or does it matter what brand it is?
Click to expand...

Glue is NOT glue, glue.

Brand matters, age matters, especially WRT CA.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
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