Gluing bed cloth

Majic

With The Lights ON !!
Silver Member
Lets suppose that when installing 860 Simonis, the BCA standards are used for stretch, and the cloth is glued using Scothcgrip 10 neutral. Glue should be applied to both the table and cloth according to Ivan Lee. My question is how is the glue applied, the cloth stretched and then applied to the table.
 
The easiest way I've found is to apply it to the table, stretch the cloth to get some of the glue onto the cloth, then release. Re-apply glue to the table, then stretch the cloth into place and stick it. :)
 
You need a tape measure, basic math skills, pencil or a basic ink pen not a markie. I think most of the answers or under REALKINGCOBRA post's if not you might want to call him he was nice enough to teach it to me and a few others. If its your first time doing it with this glue 1hr working time and you may want to try it with a 2"-2-1\2" stretch takes awhile to get it up to a 3" stretch.

It can be typed out but seeing it is a better way to learn it he should have some cd out soon.

Craig
916-825-2036
 
Lets suppose that when installing 860 Simonis, the BCA standards are used for stretch, and the cloth is glued using Scothcgrip 10 neutral. Glue should be applied to both the table and cloth according to Ivan Lee. My question is how is the glue applied, the cloth stretched and then applied to the table.

What BCA standards? I didn't know the BCA had mechanics working for them;) The "BCA" is not qualified to set a standard on how to install cloth, or how tight it should be!

Glen
 
Call me 702-927-5689
Glen

Thanks, but I think I will use staples this time. And to correct myself it is the Worl Pool-Billiard Association that has the standards for applying cloth and not the BCA.

Thanks again.

Lou
 
This is straight from the "World Pool Association" rules. This is nothing more than repeat from other past guidelines. According to these guidelines, Diamond ProAm's wouldn't follow the rules as Diamond 9ft ProAms don't have a slate backing to staple the cloth to, and they also don't have cloth strips glued into the pockets before the pockets are finished off.

I can't even think about the last time I saw a 9ft table that someone used "Tacks" to fasten the rail cloth, at least not in the last 20 years or so, in fact...I don't even know of anyone that still uses them, unless they're recovering an antique Brunswick table...the OLD way:wink: And never...never use staples longer than 1/4" unless you need the length of the staples to hold the cloth on rails that are stapled out, longer staples just help degrade the rails that much sooner.

I don't mean to argue with you, but as far as I'm concerned these guidelines don't really mean much of anything to me. Now, if the standard of how to recover a pool table was written by a group of very knowledgeable mechanics as a way of setting a "Standard" that the table and cloth manufacturing industry supported 100%...as the "correct" way...I'd support that. When the "World Pool Association" starts endorsing the mechanics that install the cloth...because they themselves can install the cloth....now THAT would be something!

Glen, the "Realkingcobra"



13. Fastening of the Cloth (Guidelines)
Before cloth-covering the slate, a strip of canvas (or table-cloth) should be glued to the vertical pocket cuts of the slates and their underlying wooden slate liner. The table-bed cloth must be stretched for "proper tension" and mechanically attached to the underlying wooden slate liner with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a maximum of 1 inch on center approximately, with at least inch [.9525 cm] penetration into
the wooden slate liner. Guidelines for proper tension are as follow:

1. Length of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible,
and then relieved ½ inch [1.27 cm] before attachment, and
2. Width of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible,
and then relieved ¼ inch [.635 cm] before attachment.

When covering the cushions, the cloth must be lengthwise evenly and consistently well-stretched while inserting the featherstrip as well as thereafter. While the cloth is in a stretched condition lengthwise, the cloth must then be stretched in the width up to the moment when indentation of the nose of the rubber cushion is about to start and attached underneath the wooden rail with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a
maximum of 3/4 inch [1.905 cm] on center approximately, with at least 3/8 inch [.9525 cm] penetration into the wood. At the side pocket openings, the rails are to be covered with a minimum overlapping of fabric over the facings. When doing overlappings, great care must be taken so that hidden folds, if any, do not cause balls to jump off the table during play. No folds are allowed in the cloth over the facings of the corner pockets.
 
This is straight from the "World Pool Association" rules. This is nothing more than repeat from other past guidelines. According to these guidelines, Diamond ProAm's wouldn't follow the rules as Diamond 9ft ProAms don't have a slate backing to staple the cloth to, and they also don't have cloth strips glued into the pockets before the pockets are finished off.

I can't even think about the last time I saw a 9ft table that someone used "Tacks" to fasten the rail cloth, at least not in the last 20 years or so, in fact...I don't even know of anyone that still uses them, unless they're recovering an antique Brunswick table...the OLD way:wink: And never...never use staples longer than 1/4" unless you need the length of the staples to hold the cloth on rails that are stapled out, longer staples just help degrade the rails that much sooner.



I don't mean to argue with you, but as far as I'm concerned these guidelines don't really mean much of anything to me. Now, if the standard of how to recover a pool table was written by a group of very knowledgeable mechanics as a way of setting a "Standard" that the table and cloth manufacturing industry supported 100%...as the "correct" way...I'd support that. When the "World Pool Association" starts endorsing the mechanics that install the cloth...because they themselves can install the cloth....now THAT would be something!

Glen, the "Realkingcobra"



13. Fastening of the Cloth (Guidelines)
Before cloth-covering the slate, a strip of canvas (or table-cloth) should be glued to the vertical pocket cuts of the slates and their underlying wooden slate liner. The table-bed cloth must be stretched for "proper tension" and mechanically attached to the underlying wooden slate liner with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a maximum of 1 inch on center approximately, with at least inch [.9525 cm] penetration into
the wooden slate liner. Guidelines for proper tension are as follow:

1. Length of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible,
and then relieved ½ inch [1.27 cm] before attachment, and
2. Width of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible,
and then relieved ¼ inch [.635 cm] before attachment.

When covering the cushions, the cloth must be lengthwise evenly and consistently well-stretched while inserting the featherstrip as well as thereafter. While the cloth is in a stretched condition lengthwise, the cloth must then be stretched in the width up to the moment when indentation of the nose of the rubber cushion is about to start and attached underneath the wooden rail with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a
maximum of 3/4 inch [1.905 cm] on center approximately, with at least 3/8 inch [.9525 cm] penetration into the wood. At the side pocket openings, the rails are to be covered with a minimum overlapping of fabric over the facings. When doing overlappings, great care must be taken so that hidden folds, if any, do not cause balls to jump off the table during play. No folds are allowed in the cloth over the facings of the corner pockets.

Take it up with the WPA cuz I dob't really give a shit one way or the other
 
If you would have called me, like I asked you to...I would have helped you on the phone...that's WHY I gave you my phone number...to call me:wink:

Glen

I told ya that I am going with the staples. After all this isn't rocket science.




Thanks anyway !!

Lou
 
Says the guy posting here asking for help.

Either way, staples or glue doesn't answer the question on stretch so let boy figure it out on his own.
Apparently the offer for phone support from the most experienced mechanic on the forum wasn't good enough.
 
Either way, staples or glue doesn't answer the question on stretch so let boy figure it out on his own.
Apparently the offer for phone support from the most experienced mechanic on the forum wasn't good enough.

Maybe his question was a hypothetical. We shouldn't assume he actually wanted an answer. You know what assuming does!
 
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