Gluing Rings

K

kiinstructor

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ive been using my lathe to cut tendons and glue rings on using the tailstock for pressure on the rings until the 5 minute epoxy hardens enough but It kind of a waste of the lathe to be tied up with the application. Would anyone share any other ways they have of compressing the rings on the joints and butts so as to free up that machine. When I was at Bluds place years ago he had some cylinders that he applied air to so as to compress the rings, joints ect. Thanks in advance.

Mark
 
kiinstructor said:
Ive been using my lathe to cut tendons and glue rings on using the tailstock for pressure on the rings until the 5 minute epoxy hardens enough but It kind of a waste of the lathe to be tied up with the application. Would anyone share any other ways they have of compressing the rings on the joints and butts so as to free up that machine. When I was at Bluds place years ago he had some cylinders that he applied air to so as to compress the rings, joints ect. Thanks in advance.

Mark
Click to expand...

When installing rings on shafts or butts I don't use 5-min as I have had failures with it. I use West System on all such installations. What I do is drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole a little over an inch deep and I then use a 60 deg V cutter to give me a good center on the radius of this hole for later turning in the end of the shaft or butt. I took some 1 inch delrin, bored a 1/4 inch deep about .700 in width with a cap. These look similar to a bottle cap. I then drill a hole through the center and use a 1/4-20 1" cap screw and after gluing up the deco-rings I put this cap over the end and pull the rings down snug against each other, remove shaft or butt and hang elsewhere until glues dry and I'm ready to work on it again. Much stronger glue and no machines tied up. I've got about 8 of these made up as it takes little time to make them once you have the set up in your lathe to make one of them. I just drill a hole about 3 or so inch deep and then with the cut-off tool I cut these off around a half inch or so long and then drop a boring bar on and bore them about half the distance that they are thick. !0 or 15 minutes and you are set for years as glue won't stick and they don't wear out. I have a couple for the butt cap also when doing work on that end.

Dick
 
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I like threading too. If you're not going to thread then Dick's method sounds like a great idea.

Frank
 

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kiinstructor said:
Ive been using my lathe to cut tendons and glue rings on using the tailstock for pressure on the rings until the 5 minute epoxy hardens enough but It kind of a waste of the lathe to be tied up with the application. Would anyone share any other ways they have of compressing the rings on the joints and butts so as to free up that machine. When I was at Bluds place years ago he had some cylinders that he applied air to so as to compress the rings, joints ect. Thanks in advance.

Mark
Click to expand...

Sometimes something can be very simple. You can make a cap type fixture out of Delrin and use 1/4 inch rubber bands. You can buy them by the bag at Office depot for like nothing. You just cinch the band around the cue and pull it up and over the cap you make. Use as many bands as you feel you think you need.
 
Rings

Another method is to use a thin CA (cyanoacrylate) in conjuntion w/ acelerator & Delrin or other non-stick surface to hold rings in place. It only takes a few seconds. No glue line & dries rock hard. Expirement first on a test dowel.
Paul Sumrall S&S Cues
 
rhncue said:
When installing rings on shafts or butts I don't use 5-min as I have had failures with it. I use West System on all such installations. What I do is drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole a little over an inch deep and I then use a 60 deg V cutter to give me a good center on the radius of this hole for later turning in the end of the shaft or butt. I took some 1 inch delrin, bored a 1/4 inch deep about .700 in width with a cap. These look similar to a bottle cap. I then drill a hole through the center and use a 1/4-20 1" cap screw and after gluing up the deco-rings I put this cap over the end and pull the rings down snug against each other, remove shaft or butt and hang elsewhere until glues dry and I'm ready to work on it again. Much stronger glue and no machines tied up. I've got about 8 of these made up as it takes little time to make them once you have the set up in your lathe to make one of them. I just drill a hole about 3 or so inch deep and then with the cut-off tool I cut these off around a half inch or so long and then drop a boring bar on and bore them about half the distance that they are thick. !0 or 15 minutes and you are set for years as glue won't stick and they don't wear out. I have a couple for the butt cap also when doing work on that end.

Dick
Click to expand...

That's a great idea Dick and I wish I had the time to use it, but......
Seybert's and it's clients are quite demanding as far as time allotments are concerned. I've found that I can greatly reduce the glue-up time by doing the ring-work and insert at the same time. The shaft is already chucked-up true so why not? Hence the pipe/bar clamps.

The only ones that I can't do the rings & insert at the same time are those that have a 'capped' end ring, ie, Schon, Pechauer Pro. Those require 2 sessions. 'Witness marks' are very handy.
 
KJ Cues said:
You're kidding with that price, right?
I bought the pipe clamp components off HF for like $4-5 a set and supplied my own pipe. Total cost, under $10 for a 30"+ pipe clamp.
Click to expand...

I've got cheap bar clamps laying all over the place from 6" through 48". They have a removable plastic pad on each end and I believe I paid like 3.50 each on sale at Harbor Freight for the 36" ones on sale. I just never remember to use them.

Dick
 
KJ Cues said:
You're kidding with that price, right?
I bought the pipe clamp components off HF for like $4-5 a set and supplied my own pipe. Total cost, under $10 for a 30"+ pipe clamp.
Click to expand...

I use a similar device to what SK is showing, mine only cost $15 each at Lowe's and they are 32 inches long. I use mine for everything from tips to all projects that require adhesive and pressure they work great all the way around. But I agree that the ones above are pretty expensive.:)
 
KJ Cues said:
That's a great idea Dick and I wish I had the time to use it, but......
Seybert's and it's clients are quite demanding as far as time allotments are concerned. I've found that I can greatly reduce the glue-up time by doing the ring-work and insert at the same time. The shaft is already chucked-up true so why not? Hence the pipe/bar clamps.

The only ones that I can't do the rings & insert at the same time are those that have a 'capped' end ring, ie, Schon, Pechauer Pro. Those require 2 sessions. 'Witness marks' are very handy.
Click to expand...

I normally use the radial pin. That's why the 1/4-20. I also install the inserts at the same time as the rings but I glue in the insert first and then glue on the rings and then substitute a 5/16-18 cap screw or my 5/16-14 drive pin for the 1/4-20 and screw them into the the inserts with the caps.

Dick
 
If I don't have a lathe available I have pipe and bar clamps. I quit using 5 Minute Epoxy for anything except ferrules about 20 years ago. I had too many butt plates and rings come loose in time with it. I use slower epoxies like the Devcon 2 Ton for gluing rings. I use the West System for the wrap joint as I like the thinner viscosity of it for that operation. I have wound up with dry bonds with West System for some other applications like gluing in stitch rings and such. I still use West System for that, but I let it soak in for a few minutes and then add more epoxy to the grooves before gluing in the silver.
 
I put the end caps and those rings on with Max Clr 5 minute epoxy and press it with the tail stock until it sets.............. the other rings on both ends of the handle........ I use gorilla glue and press it over night........... never had a problem and you can't feel my rings...........

Kim
 
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