Stick the drilled piece to the freezer for a minute or two.
You're welcome.
You're welcome.
Gorilla Glue !
- Thread starter Russell Cues
- Start date
I'm glad you think Joey can be a retard too!!:grin:
Anyone Have any Experience with the Gorilla Super Glue?
I have always used Regular Krazy Glue. (super glue)
I have always used Regular Krazy Glue. (super glue)
It doesn't seem to set up the same all the time even with kicker sprayed on it. I don't use it for tips. I use it for temporary dowels in the butt sleeve when I put points in them. 3 dots on each end and cut and glue the points. You only have to bore in a little on each end and then push the dowel out.
Kim
*We've been using Gorilla glue for over a decade and wouldn't consider anything else as it does a superb job.
I feel it is of the utmost importance to coat the inside of the front as well as the dowel itself to insure a full and even coating on the inside of the workpiece. You need to push the glue through the workpiece to insure an even inside coating and coating the inside insures this.
It's not necessary to wet either the dowel or the front as there is moisture in the wood and any further moisture is unnecessary. However, if you live in a dry climate such as Vegas as we once did, then the addition of slight moisture is necessary or at least we thought it was.
We've cored thousands of fronts and have never had a 'freeze-up'. Always make sure there is sufficient clearance and plenty of glue as described above and you shouldn't have any issues.
There is no need to over-engineer or over think this area of cue building as it's quite fool-proof and simple.
*We have tried using West, Cyano and yellow glue. Each of the aforementioned offers a different feel to the cue none of which we like in our cues so that's why we use Gorilla glue exclusively in coring.
I feel it is of the utmost importance to coat the inside of the front as well as the dowel itself to insure a full and even coating on the inside of the workpiece. You need to push the glue through the workpiece to insure an even inside coating and coating the inside insures this.
It's not necessary to wet either the dowel or the front as there is moisture in the wood and any further moisture is unnecessary. However, if you live in a dry climate such as Vegas as we once did, then the addition of slight moisture is necessary or at least we thought it was.
We've cored thousands of fronts and have never had a 'freeze-up'. Always make sure there is sufficient clearance and plenty of glue as described above and you shouldn't have any issues.
There is no need to over-engineer or over think this area of cue building as it's quite fool-proof and simple.
*We have tried using West, Cyano and yellow glue. Each of the aforementioned offers a different feel to the cue none of which we like in our cues so that's why we use Gorilla glue exclusively in coring.
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Self Explanitory
Wet only the inside of the hole and shove it through fast
Can't quite remember where I heard that before
Rudie
Wet only the inside of the hole and shove it through fast
Can't quite remember where I heard that before
Rudie
glue
ever noticed how the glue foams quicker this time of year and not as fast in winter months.the moister in the air is different.it does'nt hurt to keep different glues on hand for different applications.one of the toughest things in cuemaking is understanding the products we use,i would love to have the money back on stuff i've bought and expermented with that did'nt work.
ever noticed how the glue foams quicker this time of year and not as fast in winter months.the moister in the air is different.it does'nt hurt to keep different glues on hand for different applications.one of the toughest things in cuemaking is understanding the products we use,i would love to have the money back on stuff i've bought and expermented with that did'nt work.
I find that at certain times that the Gorilla Glue wont expand/foam as much and I want that stuff to explode. Ive cored burls and it will come out of EVERY pore, pin hole or smallest crack there is, I love it.
Unfortunately this one time it grabbed about 6-8 inches and that was all she wrote, till I cored out the piece again. There was enough clearance between the core and bored hole, the Gorilla Glue just "exploded" and yes it grabs like a mother @%$# . Which Im happy with because I know that once the glue hardens, you are NOT going to get that core out of there. period.
You learn something new all the time.
Unfortunately this one time it grabbed about 6-8 inches and that was all she wrote, till I cored out the piece again. There was enough clearance between the core and bored hole, the Gorilla Glue just "exploded" and yes it grabs like a mother @%$# . Which Im happy with because I know that once the glue hardens, you are NOT going to get that core out of there. period.
You learn something new all the time.
foam
After reading the different thoughts and experiences..... I have one question...
Do you want lots of foam to come out of the core? If you get a big foam ball, you are sure that the glue pushed into every crack and crevice but, doesn't that mean that less glue is actually in the core???
I like a small but complete foam ring at each end. That means it expanded but left more glue in the core.
I have cut them apart and there is no foam between the core and the forearm, just solid GG.
Kim
After reading the different thoughts and experiences..... I have one question...
Do you want lots of foam to come out of the core? If you get a big foam ball, you are sure that the glue pushed into every crack and crevice but, doesn't that mean that less glue is actually in the core???
I like a small but complete foam ring at each end. That means it expanded but left more glue in the core.
I have cut them apart and there is no foam between the core and the forearm, just solid GG.
Kim
Kim,
I do not use Gorilla glue but as far as I am concerned if you have a ton of foam coming out that indicates that the core is really sloppy.
I use a similar glue but I do not need to moist the wood and the glue also foams and all.
You want the core to be a somewhat snug fit.
When I core I am putting glue all over the core and go 2 or 3 times with the dowel into the wood to make sure there is glue all over the place, inside the wood being cored. When I do that I make sure that I go with the dowel on both sides on the wood being cored, that way I know that the glue is where it needs to be.
My cores foam a bit but not much.
I would not worry about having a ring of foam on top and bottom, as long as you have a snug fit and those areas are wet with glue you should not have an issue.
n/n
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Gorrila glue must have water to react, the amount of water dictates expansion. It is actualy the CO2 created that makes the foam. I used to have the same chemical genericly under the name LeakStop (as many do) to inject into leaking basements. To much water and no place to expand can and will create splitting of wood.
:bash:SERIOUSLY ! Does everything someone says have to be taken to the extreme ?!! OK lemme @#%$ rephrase, I want the glue "foam" comming out on both ends enough to know it has expanded and filled the couple of thousandths gap between the core and the work piece.
As far as glue comming out of pin holes and "cracks" well BURL, even burl that looks very tight, will have tiny pin holes. If the gorilla glue expanded through those pin holes or cracks, not seen clearly with the naked eye, then I know it has bonded the core to the burl and filled those pin holes. There is nothing sloppy about the fit of my cores.
:bash:
@%#$#%# !!!
As far as glue comming out of pin holes and "cracks" well BURL, even burl that looks very tight, will have tiny pin holes. If the gorilla glue expanded through those pin holes or cracks, not seen clearly with the naked eye, then I know it has bonded the core to the burl and filled those pin holes. There is nothing sloppy about the fit of my cores.
:bash:
@%#$#%# !!!
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Just a Question?
This is Kinda in relation to Gorilla glue, Since it does Expand!
Lets say you cut the ferrule off a 314-2 shaft, And the foam in the core comes out. Could Gorilla glue be used to replace this, Or Could you cut a piece of foam and glue it in?
This is Kinda in relation to Gorilla glue, Since it does Expand!
Lets say you cut the ferrule off a 314-2 shaft, And the foam in the core comes out. Could Gorilla glue be used to replace this, Or Could you cut a piece of foam and glue it in?
Good to know cause I would hate for the core to fall out on the floor while I was down on the 9 lol