Having some finish issues.

GrimmCustomCues

GrimmCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been using General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly with the cross linker for a little over a year now. Originally tried a sanding sealer base, then eventually went to an epoxy base. Lately I've had a few cues come back with some 1/8"-1/4" chunks missing like it had hit something and the finish just came off. The customer said they hadn't hit anything with it. I would repair it an send it on its way. I'm starting to see it more and more and now my personal shooting cue has about a 1/2"x1/8" chunk just randomly missing and I know I didn't hit anything with it hard enough to take a chunk out. It almost looks like it just peeled off. Anyone have any idea what might cause this? Is the finish too brittle? Do I need to find another finish to use? Any insight would be appreciated.


Rich

 
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The problem is that "you did hit something" and this small hit causes the finish to pull away from the wood and leave a bubble.

I have seen this problem with a lot of finishes and the problem is the surface of the wood is too smooth for the finish to hold to so any hit will cause the finish to pull away from the wood.

If you see a bubble that has not chipped out yet then look real close with magnification and you will see where it has been hit.

They do make products that you can add to finish to help it stick better or you can do finish sanding with 220 grit paper.
 
You're obviously creating a mechanical bond only between coats - and not a very good one. The final coats are adhering to the substrate by little more than the natural vacuum created between the layers. As Alex said, there are intermediate coatings and/or surface treatments that will adhere well to the epoxy undercoat and will allow the topcoat to "burn" in, creating both a mechanical bond AND a chemical bond. You just have to find the right combination.

Build a dummy cue, finish it the way you have been, abuse it a bit and then take it to a coating supplier that has their own test lab. They'll help you find/develop a process that won't fail they way this process has been.

TW
 
I have had the same looking problem. I use an epoxy base coat/sealer and a water based urethane for the finish coat. A guy had the cue for several months and one day he took it out of the case and there it was.

The only time I had it was when my shop was cold, about 55 deg. And it usually appears on the joint and butt caps that are Juma.

I never had the problem with a cue I built in the summer time.

Just sand it down to the wood and refinish it. Never had it come back. I can think of no other reason for it.... only had it on 2 cues.

Kim
 
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whammo57 said:
I have had the same looking problem. I use an epoxy base coat/sealer and a water based urethane for the finish coat.



The only time I had it was when my shop was cold, about 55 deg. And it usually appears on the joint and butt caps that are Juma.



I never had the problem with a cue I built in the summer time.



Just sand it down to the wood and refinish it. Never had it come back.



Kim
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All these Cues we're finished during the winter probably around 60 degrees in the shop... all joints and butts too. Maybe just coincidence? I generally finish sand with 320 so I'm gonna try the 220 like Alex said and see what happens.


Rich
 
Build a heat box.

I think you're better off sticking to epoxy finish if you don't want to spray auto clear.
Much harder and is designed to stick on pretty much anything .
 
There aren't any good sources for double black phenolic any more.

Norplex was the last, and they quit last year.

I've still got some left, but I'm looking for a new source, and not having any luck.


Royce
 
RBC said:
There aren't any good sources for double black phenolic any more.

Norplex was the last, and they quit last year.

I've still got some left, but I'm looking for a new source, and not having any luck.


Royce
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Wow, Norplex quit making double black phenolic. Good thing I ordered enough to last a few years when I did get some from them. I was thinking of selling some but I guess that has changed now.

Alex
 
The butt cap surface, looks too smooth to have been sanded with 320 paper. I use 400 & don't have that problem. I use mineral spirits to remove any fingerprints or dirt, just before sealing & again before spraying the finish...JER
 
BLACHEART42 said:
The butt cap surface, looks too smooth to have been sanded with 320 paper. I use 400 & don't have that problem. I use mineral spirits to remove any fingerprints or dirt, just before sealing & again before spraying the finish...JER
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It's definitely 320, haven't used anything finer in probably the last 3 years, granted that piece of 320 might have been a little used at the time. Lol



Rich
 
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