HELP How do you TEST AND COMPARE LD shafts on a pool table???

brentinps

brentinps

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Have not seen a post re this before... and have read the AZ post of subjective polling and squirt tests of Dr. billiards, etc.

Being able to buy and test different equipment in a game we all have a passion for is a luxury that is usually done over a time period by those that can upgrade from time to time.

When trying out new shafts as a player, I can't seem to set up a test to check and analyze the differences. GOT ANY TRICKS OF THE TRADE?

I have Jacoby Hybrid Edge with a 12.75 Ultra-skin soft tip, a new Pechauer P+ PRO LD shaft with Kamui black/clear soft , a Pred. Z2 shaft with an 11.75 tip and their factory yellow tip (vantage),and a Mezz Pro2 Hybrid with G2 tip, as well.

All are the same 29 inch length.

I know the playing characteristics of the Edge, as I have played with it for several years. I typically enjoy the consistency of the Jacoby vs the ability to get more action of a cue ball... but that is just how I play. Naturally reg maple is able to masse better, and throw balls better, etc.

The peach has fantastic wood or they "bleach" or whatever to have uniform color, when compared to the Jacoby edge that has some darker sections or laminates visible from other more uniform maple colors.

The uniformity of color quality is seen in the peach. The Mezz is also much. much greater looking wood I.e. light colored than I have on my wx700. The clear finish on the Mezz and Predator do appear to be the most slick on initial feel, prior to typical leather burnishing.

I HAVE TRIED TO COMPARE them by hitting a ball from the head string to the center dot on the opposite end with differeing speed and right spin to see how they swerve and how english works. Not much of a difference there. However I just got my Z2, and with that small vantage it should zip around much differently. I will have to see.

TRIED SEVERAL shots from the head string with cue ball and object ball in a center line, equally set on the break dot and hit shots with right english to throw the ball , and see the change over the distance. Pretty equal there too.

Most of my tests would be more of a "tip challenge" than a shaft challenge, so it is hard to tell variances from shaft to shaft.

TRIED A FULL TABLE HARD SHOT from rt top head pocket to left front pocket with a ball in center front of the pocket and testing the amount of low english action from such a strong shot under speed. Pretty much the same there too.

No forums have really said how to do a comparison on a table of 2-4 shafts. Looks like there will be some nuances I will have notice through game play. Or am I missing some ultimate tests cuemakers and collectors know of???

Unfortunately the bar I was at was loud so I couldn't even listen to the hits.

WOULD LOVE TO know how an analysis can be applied to those of us that like to test different equipment!!!
 
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No right way to compare shafts. If you have the luxury of trying on the same cue and with the same kind of tip, that's a perfect scenario.
Try shots you feel tells you the most about a shafts performance.
Deflection you can test, several videos on youtube that shows you how.
 
If you can't tell the difference, does it make a difference then?
I test mine with high inside top with the OB close to the pocket.
If the cue ball scratches, it's low def to me.
 
I ain't quotin' that; are you kiddin me ?

Let's keep it simple. Which shaft feels BEST to you when you hit the ball ?
That's the shaft you should be playing with and you can sell all the rest.
Most LD shafts have gotten so close to each other in deflection that about
the biggest difference anymore is the hit. 'A player will adapt' and so will you.

I thought I'd better add this since it applies to you as much as anyone.
Pick one shaft and stick with it. You'll become a better player.
Every time you switch to a different shaft you're confusing the sub-conscious
and asking it to immediately know THAT shaft's deflection characteristics.
 
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I shoot for hours and hours and hours with a shaft until I finally miss and then I get rid of that shaft and try to find a good one that works.

If you can shoot table length shots, with max spin and speed, and make them, then that is all you need.

:)
 
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I think you have a good point Hawaiian Eye.. and I will try that.

Except that in such high powered shots you do not get to check for any variants of spin or throw/not throw (low deflection) on the OB and noticing those capabilities and differences between cue shafts...

As you will agree, a majority of spin is typically lost by the time you hit the OB at table end... of course unless you are really hitting em' hard and fast.
 
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brentinps said:
I think you have a good point Hawaiian Eye.. and I will try that.

Except that in such high powered shots you do not get to check for any variants of spin or throw/not throw (low deflection) on the OB and noticing those capabilities and differences between cue shafts...

As you will agree, a majority of spin is typically lost by the time you hit the OB at table end... of course unless you are really hitting em' hard and fast.
Click to expand...

I hit them hard and fast.

I like to hear the "pop" when the object balls hit the back of the pocket.
 
JoeyInCali said:
If you can't tell the difference, does it make a difference then?
I test mine with high inside top with the OB close to the pocket.
If the cue ball scratches, it's low def to me.
Click to expand...

High inside or outside, using parallel aiming, OB not so close to the pocket say at foot string.

As already stated, most current LD shafts have similar amounts of deflection. How the shaft feels when you hit the ball is the biggest difference.

brentinps.... there should be plenty of spin left on English shots regardless of whether you hit the cue ball hard or not. And all testing should be done on the same butt.
 
brentinps said:
Have not seen a post re this before... and have read the AZ post of subjective polling and squirt tests of Dr. billiards, etc.

Being able to buy and test different equipment in a game we all have a passion for is a luxury that is usually done over a time period by those that can upgrade from time to time.

When trying out new shafts as a player, I can't seem to set up a test to check and analyze the differences. GOT ANY TRICKS OF THE TRADE?

I have Jacoby Hybrid Edge with a 12.75 Ultra-skin soft tip, a new Pechauer P+ PRO LD shaft with Kamui black/clear soft , a Pred. Z2 shaft with an 11.75 tip and their factory yellow tip (vantage),and a Mezz Pro2 Hybrid with G2 tip, as well.

All are the same 29 inch length.

I know the playing characteristics of the Edge, as I have played with it for several years. I typically enjoy the consistency of the Jacoby vs the ability to get more action of a cue ball... but that is just how I play. Naturally reg maple is able to masse better, and throw balls better, etc.

The peach has fantastic wood or they "bleach" or whatever to have uniform color, when compared to the Jacoby edge that has some darker sections or laminates visible from other more uniform maple colors.

The uniformity of color quality is seen in the peach. The Mezz is also much. much greater looking wood I.e. light colored than I have on my wx700. The clear finish on the Mezz and Predator do appear to be the most slick on initial feel, prior to typical leather burnishing.

I HAVE TRIED TO COMPARE them by hitting a ball from the head string to the center dot on the opposite end with differeing speed and right spin to see how they swerve and how english works. Not much of a difference there. However I just got my Z2, and with that small vantage it should zip around much differently. I will have to see.

TRIED SEVERAL shots from the head string with cue ball and object ball in a center line, equally set on the break dot and hit shots with right english to throw the ball , and see the change over the distance. Pretty equal there too.

Most of my tests would be more of a "tip challenge" than a shaft challenge, so it is hard to tell variances from shaft to shaft.

TRIED A FULL TABLE HARD SHOT from rt top head pocket to left front pocket with a ball in center front of the pocket and testing the amount of low english action from such a strong shot under speed. Pretty much the same there too.

No forums have really said how to do a comparison on a table of 2-4 shafts. Looks like there will be some nuances I will have notice through game play. Or am I missing some ultimate tests cuemakers and collectors know of???
Sho
Unfortunately the bar I was at was loud so I couldn't even listen to the hits.

WOULD LOVE TO know how an analysis can be applied to those of us that like to test different equipment!!!
Click to expand...

Hi,

Put a piece of chalk on the end rail with the pointed edge facing the opposite rail. Now take LD shaft and aim at the point of the chalk with 1 Full tip of English with a very firm stroke. Do this ten times and have someone else witness how much squirt happens off the target.

Then do the same with the other shaft. The LD shaft should squirt less.

Now when you use English on shots with less speed you will have more confidence in the LD engineering. You still have to get used to the different object ball hit point to make the shot but you will not have to move the pocket or target in you mind on most measured stroke shots using English.

JMO,

Rick
 
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