Help with cue tip contact point.

The_JV

Local_Pro
Very important because that outer edge is where the roughness needs to be. With the pik, it's very easy to weaken the sides, leading to tears/cracking and eventual separation from the ferrule.
I can only say that I have never experienced any of these things in roughly +20yrs of using a pick. ...and I'm very curious as to how you used a pick that may have separated the tip from the ferrule...? The idea is to push down into the surface top surface (dome), not into the side of the tip. ..and definitely not to use a prying motion, if that's the case.
 
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Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
I can only say that I have never experienced any of these things in roughly +20yrs of using a pick. ...and I'm very curious as to how you used a pick that may have separated the tip from the ferrule...? The idea is to push down into the surface top surface (dome), not into the side of the tip. ..and definitely not to use a prying motion.
We must be unusually talented pick users - I too have never had a problem in two decades of using one daily. You can see by my pics above that I pick the entire surface, including edges of course.

pj
chgo
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The separation is from normal impacts. The weak sides enable the flaring and delamination. I think I also used the rolling motion with the tip extending beyond the edges. Anyway the tapper doesn't produce those effects.
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
We must be unusually talented pick users - I too have never had a problem in two decades of using one daily. You can see by my pics above that I pick the entire surface, including edges of course.

pj
chgo
Your tip looks like the surface of the moon. Rolling leaves a denser more uniform scoring especially around the perimeter - where the pik fails.
 

The_JV

Local_Pro
The separation is from normal impacts. The weak sides enable the flaring and delamination. I think I also used the rolling motion with the tip extending beyond the edges. Anyway the tapper doesn't produce those effects.
Interesting.... may I ask what type / hardness of tip you experienced this with...? Wondering if it's just something I never dealt with because of the hard tips I was using. Never experienced "weak sides" on tips.

To be fair, I'm also light handed with the pick. Not trying to dig to China, or the USA (depending where you're from....lol)
 
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The_JV

Local_Pro
Your tip looks like the surface of the moon. Rolling leaves a denser more uniform scoring especially around the perimeter - where the pik fails.
Sorry are we still talking about pick use here...? Regardless the idea is to have a rough surface, not a necessarily a symetrical pattern. As long as the chalk transfers to the tip the practice is successful. Pick, sandpaper, shaper (as an abrasive or embossing tool) it doesn't matter. The earlier discussion was why people would opt for a pick over an abrasive. That's a material loss thing, which is not a concern for you considering the way you're using the tool.

The surface of the moon thing is byproduct of tapping. I also tap rather than roll. Rolling with any deep penetration could pry up tip material, which isn't something I would want to do.

If you had issues with a pick, that's cool. Different strokes diff folks... I have had zero failure/issue using a pick, and have tried those shapers as an abrasive in the past. When I saw that a pick embossed a rough texture into my tip without risk of removing material, I decided to go that route. I suppose I could use a shaper as you do as well... A tool meant to be an abrasive is designed as such. Pressing the texture of an abrasive into my tip would definitely work, but I think it wouldn't work as well as a tool designed for the job.

All that said..., again..., a pick can cause damage if used incorrectly. If someone opts for the tapping method like I do. It would be easy enough to bury a point into the ferrule of you weren't paying attention.
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Interesting.... may I ask what type / hardness of tip you experienced this with...? Wondering if it's just something I never dealt with because of the hard tips I was using. Never experienced "weak sides" on tips.

To be fair, I'm also light handed with the pick. Not tying to dig to China, or the USA (depending where you're from....lol)
I've done it on WBs - those crack. The Elkmasters I use now flare and tear. It's probably rolling around the perimeter that does it. If you poke or even roll just the top part, the pik would do no harm.
 

The_JV

Local_Pro
I've done it on WBs - those crack. The Elkmasters I use now flare and tear. It's probably rolling around the perimeter that does it. If you poke or even roll just the top part, the pik would do no harm.
Ya I'm guessing it was the hardness of the tip I was using then. ...the reason for zero issues I mean.

I am using the same pick on the Zan soft I have on my wx700 right now. The only difference thus far, is I don't tap as hard. Zero issues to report so far. That said, I think I've only used the pick once, and that was more for the experiment.
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I go 20 - 30 rotations with the Porper (I actually count. I might have a vampire chromosome or two) starting on the perimeter and spiraling in ending at the center. It leaves the tip feeling freshly shaped.
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Give this thing a try.

ttptst_01_1.jpg

The Porper Tip Shaper/Tacker is a superior two sided tool that can be used for both shaping and scuffing. The Shaper/Tacker also acts as an excellent tip tapper for your pool cue. This is an effective multi-tool that will have your cue hitting in great shape with little effort. The tip shaper and tacker ends are both permanently sharpened for a lifetime of reliable performance.
 

The_JV

Local_Pro
The Porper Tip Shaper/Tacker is a superior two sided tool that can be used for both shaping and scuffing.
That's definitely more aggressive then the usual tip shapers/abrasives I have run across. That tool is something I would only use to emboss with. Based on the picture it looks like it would shred a tip if rubbed instead of pressed. I have zero experience with one, so I'll bow to your knowledge of it.

If I ever see one, I'll take a closer look. I tend not to fix things that aren't broken so I don't know if I'd stray from the typical pick I use now though.

Thanks for posting the picture
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is a recent purchase. Le Pro I think. Rubbed the chalk off leaving the chalked pits

tip.jpg


Flip phone cam exclusive.
 
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