Help with new Mid cue smith

JTs cuerepair

JTs cuerepair

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Just got my new High tower lathe today. Everything is fine but the tail stock is off center, There is a allen head screw that will allow you to move it from side to side. My question is how to line the tail stock so it's perfect lined up with the head stock.
 
JT's cuerepair said:
Just got my new High tower lathe today. Everything is fine but the tail stock is off center, There is a allen head screw that will allow you to move it from side to side. My question is how to line the tail stock so it's perfect lined up with the head stock.
Click to expand...

Put a ground pin in the chuck of the Tailstock and tighten. Loosed alignment screws on Tailstock. Tighten the lock for the handle on the tailstock (the one that is for drilling) Slide TS forward and tighten pin in headstock chuck. Tighten down the alignment screws on the TS. Loose headstock check and you should be really close. I double check with an indicator chucked the headstock and spin it around the pin.

If you are just setting everything up make sure the bed is as flat as possible before doing anything. You need a long straight edge that you know is true. I did mine with a straight edge first then used an indicator sticking out a foot or so from the base and slid it around getting everything as close as I could. Shim under the wood base. It takes a while but if you don't the tailstock and Steady Rests will be a different heights on the bed if its has even the slightest bow.

I am pretty sure most of this is in Chris' book
 
You need two centers. Put one in the headstock, one in the tailstock. With the tailstock loose put the two centers together so that the pointy ends just about meet. If they are off slide the tailstock as needed to line them up. Once this is done you can tighten the allen screw in the tailstock. Take care to not overtighten it though. I once stripped the head of the allen screw.
 
Why don't you call and ask Chris Hightower himself. He can answer any and all of your questions about your machine.
 
Chris will be headed to the SBE and most likely wont answer the phone. If you check out his videos he demonstrates how to do the alignment. However it is done as already stated. The best way is to use an axial indicator that most of us done have access to.

Jim
 
I ck my alignment every time I cut a long straight piece. The longer it is, the accurate the test will be.

When I cut a 30in coring dowel I finish the cut and then measure both ends. Compare the end near the tail stock to the end nest to the head stock.

If the tail stock end is bigger than the head stock end..... the tail stock is in too far.

If the tail stock end is smaller than the head stock end..... the tail stock is out too far.

Loosen the tail stock adjusting screw and, using an indicator, move the tail stock 1/2 the distance of the difference. Tighten the tail stock.

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
I ck my alignment every time I cut a long straight piece. The longer it is, the accurate the test will be.

When I cut a 30in coring dowel I finish the cut and then measure both ends. Compare the end near the tail stock to the end nest to the head stock.

If the tail stock end is bigger than the head stock end..... the tail stock is in too far.

If the tail stock end is smaller than the head stock end..... the tail stock is out too far.

Loosen the tail stock adjusting screw and, using an indicator, move the tail stock 1/2 the distance of the difference. Tighten the tail stock.

Kim
Click to expand...
That would work if the bed is totally straight/flat and the saddle has no run-out/play along with the router.

Easiest way really is just to chuck up at 5/16 rod on both chucks ( head stock and drill chuck ).
Indicate both rods and adjust accordingly.
 
JoeyInCali said:
That would work if the bed is totally straight/flat and the saddle has no run-out/play along with the router.

Easiest way really is just to chuck up at 5/16 rod on both chucks ( head stock and drill chuck ).
Indicate both rods and adjust accordingly.
Click to expand...

The easiest way is what I said. You're way is more accurate though.

You'd have to buy a long perfectly true rod that was center ground. Chuck up dead centers in the HS and TS, put the bar between the 2 and indicate. If you chucked it directly in the jaws, if anything was cocked the slop in the jaws might hide it. Possible problem, it could be high or low in different spots if the bed isn't perfectly flat.

Here's a fairly easy way to make sure the bed is true. Get a long rod to hold an indicator. Spin indicator in Headstock chuck. Indicate the Steady Rests every 6 inches from the headstock all the way to the end (I'd also make sure its correct on the left side of the Headstock). You would only need to do this once. Once you are sure the bed is true you can use any of the above methods to get your TS centered.

Oh, you should also check that the chuck on the Tailstock is true. Stick a long pin in the chuck. Indicate across the length. You should also make sure its spinning true by removing the cotter pin from the drilling handle and spin the Chuck/Mandrel assembly and make sure its true.
 
Its in his video in the last part.

JT's cuerepair said:
Just got my new High tower lathe today. Everything is fine but the tail stock is off center, There is a allen head screw that will allow you to move it from side to side. My question is how to line the tail stock so it's perfect lined up with the head stock.
Click to expand...

Its in the last part of his video.
 
Thanks Guys

Lots of great info here, Thanks so much guys. When I unpacket the lathe and set it up There was a 5 or 6 inch steel bar that I had no idea what it was for, I do now LOL, I would call Chris but as stated before he is already on his way to the show, I think I will be all set after this info from all of you guys, Thanks very Much, For all who are going to the show have a safe travel and enjoy.
 
Hi

JT's cuerepair said:
Just got my new High tower lathe today. Everything is fine but the tail stock is off center, There is a allen head screw that will allow you to move it from side to side. My question is how to line the tail stock so it's perfect lined up with the head stock.
Click to expand...

If you have all the parts your setup should have come with a bar or rod that is set up to center it up by putting it in your chuck in the headstock and bring your tail stock up to it with the tail stock open close it on the bar not to tight but enough where you can't pull it out then tighten it up.

If you do the 2 way one in rear and one in the headstock it will not be as true do to the fact that with each hole you tighten your chuck you will be different. One hole is always a little better. I have 3 Hightower's and I set mine up this way and its dead on now. So I hope this helps.
If you did not get the straight bar just get a pin that is dead nuts straight and do what I said. That should help you out.
 
JoeyInCali said:
That would work if the bed is totally straight/flat and the saddle has no run-out/play along with the router.

Easiest way really is just to chuck up at 5/16 rod on both chucks ( head stock and drill chuck ).
Indicate both rods and adjust accordingly.
Click to expand...

I agree but my test is real world and tells you exactly what the machine actually does. I think that your test is only in one position and not where the cut is actually taken.............

an I right or wrong??

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
I agree but my test is real world and tells you exactly what the machine actually does. I think that your test is only in one position and not where the cut is actually taken.............

an I right or wrong??

Kim
Click to expand...

Kim, I actually have to disagree here. Your method certainly is best if your using the full length of the lathe bed and want to adjust the tail stock to cut wood without a taper. Remember he is drilling or tapping with a Mid size lathe. I believe that it is a repair lathe and most of the time the tail stock is used for drilling or tapping just in front of the chuck. By the way, your method is the best way to true up a Taig based CNC lathe as well as a Deluxe lathe used without the taper bar.



If the drill pulls off center too much or the tap keeps going in crooked then they may want to align again.

Jim.
 
Video

I did what was said with the pin in both TS and HS. I was thinking It would be a good idea to buy an indicator, What is the proper name and where can I get one, Also The lathe did come with a video called basic cue building and repairs, Is this the Video that has the info on set up, Thanks
 
I made a 2 piece tool to use on my mini lathe years ago,after seeing a fixture my machine shop instructor made to fix a recurring problem with a lathe in the shop.

Using a lathe at school,it started off with a light truing pass on a piece of 1/2 dia 300 series stainless. I then drilled a 15/64 hole and reamed it with a fresh .250 reamer to 2" deep.

After parting the piece off,I turned a 3/8 shank on the back of one end to fit in my drill chuck.

Used some red Loc-Tite and slid a .249 gage pin in and let it dry.

Once finished,I put the male end in the tailstock and the female in the chuck,then slid my tailstock up and adjusted until the gage pin slid into the reamed hole with just the tailstock handwheel. Tommy D.
 
If you can't have Chris' book good idea to get.

If you don't have Chris' book good idea to get.





JT's cuerepair said:
Just got my new High tower lathe today. Everything is fine but the tail stock is off center, There is a allen head screw that will allow you to move it from side to side. My question is how to line the tail stock so it's perfect lined up with the head stock.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Tommy-D said:
I made a 2 piece tool to use on my mini lathe years ago,after seeing a fixture my machine shop instructor made to fix a recurring problem with a lathe in the shop.

Using a lathe at school,it started off with a light truing pass on a piece of 1/2 dia 300 series stainless. I then drilled a 15/64 hole and reamed it with a fresh .250 reamer to 2" deep.

After parting the piece off,I turned a 3/8 shank on the back of one end to fit in my drill chuck.

Used some red Loc-Tite and slid a .249 gage pin in and let it dry.

Once finished,I put the male end in the tailstock and the female in the chuck,then slid my tailstock up and adjusted until the gage pin slid into the reamed hole with just the tailstock handwheel. Tommy D.
Click to expand...

This is how a lot of places check the alignment of a turrets with lathes or when installing new tool holders.
 
yes.

JT's cuerepair said:
I did what was said with the pin in both TS and HS. I was thinking It would be a good idea to buy an indicator, What is the proper name and where can I get one, Also The lathe did come with a video called basic cue building and repairs, Is this the Video that has the info on set up, Thanks
Click to expand...


Yes at the later part.
 
The indicator you are looking for is called a dial test indicator. They cost about 30 for the imports, and 100 to 200 for the Swiss, Japanese, or US made name brands.

You will want to get a base with it as well so you can use it to check runout. Look for a base that has a fine adjusting screw.

You can also get different mountings that attach the indicator to different things. I personally like the swivel mounting when the indicator is held in a rotating spindle to check alignment with something that is supposed to be coaxial to the spindle.
 
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