High points offer any benefit in playability?
- Thread starter X Breaker
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nipponbilliards said:
Do a side by side test. Lay a cue with longer points next to a cue with shorter more broad looking. I would bet 8 out of 10 would pick the cue with the longer points as better looking all things being equal. I think the longer are a little more elegant and the short a little klunky looking.
My favorite are five and six point cues. Mainly because the base of the points don't have to be so broad and as the cue is rotated there is almost always a point facing you and no not blank wood. I actually don't like four point cues, I don't really care for veneers either just nice woods.
Jerry Franklin made me a cue with no veneers and a selected plain piece of clear maple in the nose. He said it was the only order he ever did like that for anybody. I later sold it to a guy from Texas named Campbell, I don't think he was a player just a collector. I wonder where that cue is now, it's plain but a one of a kind.
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Points are a lot of different things to a lot of different people. Some are of the mind that it strictly a balance and weight thing (hold over from the full splice days). Some believe they are only decoration. Others feel it strengthens the forearm and helps prevent warping. Still some think its a playablility issue.
I think its a combination of all of them. Does a cue have to have points to play well or look good? No.
Everything you do to the a cue affects something else, so in the end it will play differently with this or that added...... but the effects are probably so small a person really couldnt feel the difference.
Chuck
I think its a combination of all of them. Does a cue have to have points to play well or look good? No.
Everything you do to the a cue affects something else, so in the end it will play differently with this or that added...... but the effects are probably so small a person really couldnt feel the difference.
Chuck
Maybe but since the v-point actually, not the main function, stabilizes the forearm from warping,zeeder said:
I would think, the closer the points are to the joint, the less prone it is from warping in that area.
I think maple forearms with hardwood v-points would play better than plaine maple front.
JoeyInCali said:
I dunno Joey, I've been told by a few cue makers...Judd, Sigel, and Scruggs....that some of the best hitting cues have NO points. I can attest to that as 2 of my best playing cues have no points, and both BTW are Rosewood.....and 1 is a 20 year old Meucci!
I wonder if that's why some builders opt for floating points?....maybe to keep the integrity of the cue intact?
Gerry
Gerry said:I dunno Joey, I've been told by a few cue makers...Judd, Sigel, and Scruggs....that some of the best hitting cues have NO points. I can attest to that as 2 of my best playing cues have no points, and both BTW are Rosewood.....and 1 is a 20 year old Meucci!
I wonder if that's why some builders opt for floating points?....maybe to keep the integrity of the cue intact?
Gerry
any time you rout out wood from the nose you're compromising the integrity of the cue, floating or spliced points. best southwest cues i ever played with were plain/no point cues.
maybe the best way to determine if the quality of hit changes would be to splice BEM points into a BEM nose, then compare that hit to a plain BEM cue. i'll bet "they" wouldn't know the difference.
maybe the reason plain janes play great is that when all is said and done, BEM is the best wood for cueing, and adding points of a different wood negates that.
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Maybe not but I can tell which one will likely stay straight.bruin70 said:
I wonder if that's why some builders opt for floating points?....maybe to keep the integrity of the cue intact?
Easier to make.
Easier to make.
Yes, it does.bruin70 said:
You can inlay those points after the whole cue is assembled.
Can't do that with v-points unless you wanna put some Bondo at the bottom cavity of those points.
