When I purchased my first table from an old player in the area, he gave me about 5 one piece cues, there was one that really had a nice look and feel to it, gave it to a local cue maker and he converted it to a 2 piece cue, was a great playing cue.
Honest questions about cues..
- Thread starter vikingpitbull
- Start date
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I currently play with a custom sneaky, it wasn't expensive. Cue plays as well as any of the more expensive cues I've played with. I've had 100's of cues, and most of them played fairly well. I can remember the ones that I didn't like far more easier than the ones I did.
Schon, and Joss cues play as well as any of the custom cues I've owned. Single best playing cue I've ever owned was a custom, made by Mason Houghland, and it is one of about 3 cues I wish I hadn't of sold.
Some cues play better than others, even from the same makers.
Personally I'd try and figure out what type of cues you like, forward balance stiff hitting cues, soft hitting cues, butt heavy cues, whatever it may be that you like. Once you know that, you know the type of cues you'd like to buy.
Schon, and Joss cues play as well as any of the custom cues I've owned. Single best playing cue I've ever owned was a custom, made by Mason Houghland, and it is one of about 3 cues I wish I hadn't of sold.
Some cues play better than others, even from the same makers.
Personally I'd try and figure out what type of cues you like, forward balance stiff hitting cues, soft hitting cues, butt heavy cues, whatever it may be that you like. Once you know that, you know the type of cues you'd like to buy.
Banks
Banned
I'm there, just run a search for scudder to see my shortcomings! May make it out for bca, not sure. We'll play eventually.
Valley supreme that's well preserved from years of smokey bar.
This is about it. I have and had much better uses for hundreds of dollars. Played better with it, so took a cheap shot at it playing the same in two pieces and it worked. Sold my old cue and still happy with the choice. Been about three years now maybe.
The butt does affect the hit feel and balance, as well as how comfortable it is, which are still quite important things, how well you make the shot though, that's all shaft and tip.
asiasdad
Banned
WOW !
1 whole I-trader from a guy who knows nothing about me,
and is obviously talking straight out of his A$$.
SVB started playing with the Cuetec because someone he knew gave it to him, although that may be just a story so he does not get questions about swapping cues because he got money to. He was asked a few times on interviews and he said that Cuetec had nothing to do with him getting that cue. They may have sponsored him after that so they can officially list him in ads.
They all play different, some like more deflection, some like a really LD shaft, some medium, some like a certain taper, some like a certain diameter. You asked how people can pick a cue, that is how, try a lot of them, including different shafts.
You would want more than one so if you are in a tournament and your tip falls of, you have a backup, or just get several so you can have some new shafts to sell the cue with, or you may end up liking one of the few you have more than others.
My cue had 3 shafts with it, I really liked one, liked another a bit less and really did not care for the 3rd. If it only had one shaft, I may never have gotten it because I had a 33% chance of getting only the shaft I did not like.
I did. See what happens when you get really old! Must have looked in the "B" bracket
! Asked on the stream if anyone knew you or saw you there. Not much help available. Appears BCAPL is going to force me to play in the Masters event in Vegas. For an extra $25 I can play in the 8 Ball Challenge instead. Not sure what I'm going to do. Hell of a choice for a 71 year young guy. Get to choose my poison I guess.
Lyn
Most of the better known cuemakers have a better fit and finish than most production use. Wood is generally aged much longer, sometimes for years and years. I don't know it for a fact but I'm guessing most of the production cue companies are relying on "shaft stabilizer" instead of properly aging their wood. I personally don't use it because I believe there isnt any substitute for time. I do not know it to be factual but my belief is that a shaft that has been treated will play differently from one that has not been treated.
IMO you'll be happier in the long run if you buy something from a maker with a decent reputation rather than a production cue. Easier to sell and will retain more value should you not like it. Just my opinion.
IMO you'll be happier in the long run if you buy something from a maker with a decent reputation rather than a production cue. Easier to sell and will retain more value should you not like it. Just my opinion.
Guess there must be something wrong with my twenty year old Schon shaft. Been playing with it for it's entire life. The butt and shaft are still absolutely straight after all these years. Of course it doesn't mean the new ones will be but I'd take that risk.
Lyn
Cause I don't buy anything here. 1 Showman that's it on here. Searings, Szams, Haleys etc. off of AZ.
And I have been on AZ for quite awhile, surprised to see you post that.
Anyway, hope everyone plays with what they want and feels good regardless of price.
one of my favorite cues was a 333 meucci back in the day - didn't pay that for it though
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A new $40 two piece cue will get you a cue with a shaft of random straightness that will likely warp soon. There can be value Iundersta here, but you may have to look at several shafts to find a decent one.
A new $100 two piece cue eillingly usually have a pretty decent shaft bug decals to mimic inlays or points that are uneven if looking for a sneaky. This is probably the best value point for a beginner that isn't loaded.
A new $500 two piece cue will usually be good aged wood with a low deflection shaft. From a pure performance aspect, IMHO, this is all none NEEDS to play well.
Beyond that price point you are buying inlay materials and bling. There's nothing wrong with that, but see it for what it is.
The average family could do everything they do in an ESCALADE in a HONDA FIT ... that doesn't mean that if someone can afford a SLADE they shouldn't have one.
I use a PREDATOR SNEAKY PETE with SS joint and a 314 shaft. My breaker is a BK2 shaft on a cheap uniloc butt.
Before I would spend big bucks on a custom, I would find an instructor and get some table time.
If you are amateur don't fall for the BS. Buy a cue for under $50 and get a tip you can live with. 18-19 ounce. Wood. Hard Maple. Make sure it is in perfect condition including connection. Don't break with it. Use a house cue. Take care of it. Unless of course you want to support a dying business.
My first cue was a McDermot then traded up to a used Scruggs ( I wish I never sold this DOH!) , then came across a deal for a used Schon. Both the Scruggs and Schon had a firmer feel, the pro taper on the Scruggs allowed a lot of spin and action with minimal input. The over all build and finish of the Scruggs was a step above the Schon.
Schon is not generally what I am referring to when I mention production cues. Lucasi, Players, etc. but of course everyone has their story, I've had it 300 years, still straight as an arrow. Blah, blah, blah. So because your production cue is still straight after 20 that totally negates my position? Oh no, it does not. Happy for you. Obviously you missed the essence of my post.
@vikingpitbull, my personal opinion, trying to stay general and avoid arguments.
Up to a certain dollar amount, sure the playability and consistency of a cue improves. Upwards of that magic number, and we can argue endlessly what that number is (let's just say it's in the $400-$800 range for sake of argument), it's largely cosmetics (inlays, materials, hours of labor, etc.) that drive the price of a cue as it becomes a matter of personal taste. Nowadays even certain brand names are commanding bigger price premiums than they probably should (we could argue those too). Heck, you can take the butt of many low-end cues, put an excellent shaft and tip on them, and have a very solid-playing cue.
Not sure how strong you play, but the stronger the player, the more developed and honed your playing style / personal taste is for a cue (weight, materials, balance, etc). If I were buying a "playing" cue, I would never buy without hitting shots with it first. You need to hit with it before you buy, especially if you're gonna commit a decent chunk of money. Buying to collect is a totally different matter.
Up to a certain dollar amount, sure the playability and consistency of a cue improves. Upwards of that magic number, and we can argue endlessly what that number is (let's just say it's in the $400-$800 range for sake of argument), it's largely cosmetics (inlays, materials, hours of labor, etc.) that drive the price of a cue as it becomes a matter of personal taste. Nowadays even certain brand names are commanding bigger price premiums than they probably should (we could argue those too). Heck, you can take the butt of many low-end cues, put an excellent shaft and tip on them, and have a very solid-playing cue.
Not sure how strong you play, but the stronger the player, the more developed and honed your playing style / personal taste is for a cue (weight, materials, balance, etc). If I were buying a "playing" cue, I would never buy without hitting shots with it first. You need to hit with it before you buy, especially if you're gonna commit a decent chunk of money. Buying to collect is a totally different matter.
Actually I understand the essence of your post. Just disagree with your premise. A quality shaft is a quality shaft regardless of how long it was aged or who machined it. Custom does not mean better. It means unique to that one product. Production means repeatability. Not necessarily less quality. We can agree to disagree.
Incidentally, one of my friends is the cue maker for Southwest. He's explained to me how and how long it takes to make one shaft. Understand the "custom" process very well.
Lyn
I am sure you have been told by many here that most of the dollars spent on high end cues is due to the art and inlay work and material. You can actually find some decent bar cues that play very well. There are also some decent deals on some used cues here. You can also pick up some sweet sneakies for $250.00 I have owned some well known cues over the years and currently have a Olney I payed $400.00 for it is a sweet playing cue and I have a Hercek I paid quite a bit more for. Does the Hercek play five times better than my Olney, no it does not. Do I think it's worth the money I paid for it, yes I do. Do I think the Olney is worth the $ I paid for it yes I do.does my game improve with the Hercek no does it suffer with the Olney again no.You don't need a fancy cue to play well, you don't even need a straight cue but you do need a tip you like.