How do I get out of this?

Sorry about your family member, Chris. I pray that they don't suffer.

As to cutting the shot, the guy had practiced it for thousands of hours, and had it "down cold". He made a lot of money off that one shot! Who wouldn't bet on that shot not going?? It was actually tougher than shown though, both balls would be even in the center of the short rails and froze to the rail. Bucky Bell used to do something similar, he would put the cue ball on a piece of new chalk on the end rail and then cut the ball in. That way is actually a bit easier to do though, because you get better masse' on the cb.

Thanks Neil... I used to shoot it as a prop bet off the brass nameplate with the object ball frozen center rail on the 9ft AE Schmidt we had in the pool room that I cut my teeth in..

I doubt I hit it but hundreds of times way less than thousands of times but I made it more than 50% which was why it always made money... That was 20 years ago and the eyes aren't like they once were...

I shot it more as a deflection shot and aimed full... I know it curved back but it was easier to aim full and hit up thru the ball than to try and masse it....

As an aside.. frozen to the rail like in the diagram may be much harder than off the nameplate since I can't get to the bottom or even center of the ball.....
 
To those of you suggesting the full ball double kiss, you do realize that the cue ball is frozen to the other rail nine feet away? And if you don't hit it perfectly, the 9 is going to shoot towards one corner or the other?

From this position, the double kiss is a sucker shot IMO.

...bingo

Take the ...LESS than 1/2 ball hit-fairly easy shot after you've practiced it...if you haven't practiced it, you should...for obvious reasons...comes usefull more than we realize
 
This reminds of a drill I practice sometimes, although not in this exact position.

Basically I'll put the 9 ball at one end and the CB at the other end. Then I'll try to either

1. Thin the 9 ball, and put the CB back on the side it started from.
2. Bank the 9 to the other side, and leave the CB where the 9 originally was.

I'll keep doing it until I leave a direct shot into a pocket. The best I've been able to do so far is 6 in a row.
 
The cue ball pushes the 9 back to the rail. Depending on the speed the cue ball might make it back to the top rail. I use this shot often in snooker.

If it's frozen, the ball must contact ANOTHER rail, not just be bounced back to where it was.
 
Hit the nine full and use the double kiss to keep it on the rail and send the cb back to where it started. This takes some practice.

tough to do with above center hit on CB, CB frozen to rail! it will cause ob to deflect from rail (due to rolling CB) and CB will stay at center of table
 
Bank it back to whichever hole at the far right end is yours, what"s the problem? Be sure to hit with pocket speed so if you do miss it stays by your hole.

That would work if it's one pocket, but the last ball showing is the 9, so it's safe to assume it's 9-ball. The one-pocket shot here is pretty obvious if it was that :)

That is actually a pretty standard safety people play when there is a low % shot on the 9, or they leave a bank cross side, which is a lot easier to make or leave a safety. Actually, the shot shown often is the result of playing a safe off a cross side bank.
 
To those of you suggesting the full ball double kiss, you do realize that the cue ball is frozen to the other rail nine feet away? And if you don't hit it perfectly, the 9 is going to shoot towards one corner or the other?

From this position, the double kiss is a sucker shot IMO.

Yeah, any sort of touch shot is simply not going to work. FTW IRL, your options are blasting it (my preference) or trying to park it on the side rail. In my opinion, you have to accept the simple truth that you're probably about to lose so why not do something (anything) that will allow you to occasionally win?
 
A buddy and I once sat down and worked on this without the CB frozen to the head rail
(but otherwise similar). I'm guessing the frozen CB changes things.
We were APA 6/7 at the time, so better plays may be able to execute some
of the options that we considered too hard. Anyway this is what we found:

Bank it: huge sellout, even if you think you're good at banks.
If you're like... DCC bank-pool champion level then I guess this is the shot.
Most of us are like 20% or even 10% on this shot probably.
Rarely gets safe if you miss. You're trying to kill the cue ball on the side rail
and hoping they have a thin cut or bank on the opposite side rail after the miss.

Bunt it to leave balls on opposite side rails: needs practice, it's a certain thickness of hit
and a certain speed, I'd say about 1/3rd ball hit. Even if you do it, best case is you leave
them a simple bank and you're hoping they go for it and sell out.

Fram it at mach 9: gotta admit we didn't try it. There is some logic to it.
It's certainly a fine option for a lower level player and might be the best one
even for a good player.

Super thin safe: We did try this.
So hard to execute, big chance of missing entirely to give up ball in hand.
Big chance of selling out if a slight stroke error or roll off causes you to hit the ball
like 1/8th full. I can't believe Alex P. will try that in this situation.
This seems like the worst option even if you shoot extremely straight.

Railfirst spin shot: This is my favorite option, but at this distance,
angle, with frozen cue ball... it may not be viable anymore.

The beauty of this shot is that when you miss it, if you hit firmly enough to make sure the
OB reaches the hole and then some... the OB banks back towards the middle of the
head rail. The cue ball travels to the other end of the table and towards one of the corners.
If the OB bounces away from the pocket even 5 inches, it's often enough to leave nothing but
a straight back bank. I think as diagrammed you'd have to hit so hard
that the CB travels all the way back up to the head of the table :/
 
If memory serves me I was shown a five rail bank. It should leave the balls seperated if missed. But I need to try it out to remember for sure...

Pete
 
A buddy and I once sat down and worked on this without the CB frozen to the head rail
(but otherwise similar). I'm guessing the frozen CB changes things.
We were APA 6/7 at the time, so better plays may be able to execute some
of the options that we considered too hard. Anyway this is what we found:

Bank it: huge sellout, even if you think you're good at banks.
If you're like... DCC bank-pool champion level then I guess this is the shot.
Most of us are like 20% or even 10% on this shot probably.
Rarely gets safe if you miss. You're trying to kill the cue ball on the side rail
and hoping they have a thin cut or bank on the opposite side rail after the miss.

Bunt it to leave balls on opposite side rails: needs practice, it's a certain thickness of hit
and a certain speed, I'd say about 1/3rd ball hit. Even if you do it, best case is you leave
them a simple bank and you're hoping they go for it and sell out.

Fram it at mach 9: gotta admit we didn't try it. There is some logic to it.
It's certainly a fine option for a lower level player and might be the best one
even for a good player.

Super thin safe: We did try this.
So hard to execute, big chance of missing entirely to give up ball in hand.
Big chance of selling out if a slight stroke error or roll off causes you to hit the ball
like 1/8th full. I can't believe Alex P. will try that in this situation.
This seems like the worst option even if you shoot extremely straight.

Railfirst spin shot: This is my favorite option, but at this distance,
angle, with frozen cue ball... it may not be viable anymore.

The beauty of this shot is that when you miss it, if you hit firmly enough to make sure the
OB reaches the hole and then some... the OB banks back towards the middle of the
head rail. The cue ball travels to the other end of the table and towards one of the corners.
If the OB bounces away from the pocket even 5 inches, it's often enough to leave nothing but
a straight back bank. I think as diagrammed you'd have to hit so hard
that the CB travels all the way back up to the head of the table :/

Yeah, I mean, how would you feel if your opponent left himself this position? There's no doubt in my mind I'd already have my cue in my hand with my butt at the edge of the seat. No matter what you choose to do, you're probably losing. The only positions that would be worse than this are corner-hooks and frozen-to-nowhere scenarios. I think you have to take advantage of the fact that 9-ball isn't a call-shot game and let it fly. It's like being late in a poker tournament and getting dealt 72o and you're about to be blinded-out. Sometimes, you just have to push all-in and hope for the best.
 
I would aim to hit half the 9 at mach 7 or maybe even mach 8 and play all 6 pockets and maybe even a few more pockets on nearby tables. I'm not even joking.

I was actually thinking the same thing. Sometimes we over think this game. From this spot you are probably screwed. You might as well take it for a ride. I might try for a 4 railer back to one of the corners along the end rail that the 9 is sitting on now and maybe try to get the cue ball back to the opposite end of the table. But definitely hit it hard enough that I might get lucky.
 
Jude's idea may be the best one in a Tex Express 9-ball game.

If you are playing call shot, the one-rail kick is actually not insane (which is about the best you can hope for in this situation). The contact point to make the 9 is exactly opposite where the cue ball is, so it's relatively easy to aim. And the 9 is on the rail so it is a little easier to pocket. And if you don't pocket the 9, you still may get lucky and leave a safe.

Playing call shot, the other option is to wail at it and call one of the pockets on the 9 ball's natural route (3 rails in the side, corner, 5 rails to the other corner, etc). In a call-shot game, even if you pocket it in the wrong pocket, the 9 spots on the foot spot. You may get lucky and leave your opponent something long or tough.
 
If it's frozen, the ball must contact ANOTHER rail, not just be bounced back to where it was.
If it is frozen the ball will come off the rail and go back to it if you hit it square. Once it leaves the rail the rail is live again and the ball can go back and touch it. Pretty sure that is the rule but I could be wrong
 
Load the Cue ball up with a lot of left hand english, hit the rail slightly before hitting the OB and cut that sucker in the left corner pocket. Sure it is low percentage but on a table with good conditions I can make it. On my table at home I have made this shot behind my back one handed. The object ball wasn't at the center of the rail on the shot I have on video but still a tuff shot.

Honestly if there was anything at stake I would go for the kick shot in the corner. It's so easy to sell out this shot playing safe you might as well go for it.
 
If memory serves me I was shown a five rail bank. It should leave the balls seperated if missed. But I need to try it out to remember for sure...

Pete

I have a faint memory of a post on here, I believe by russ chewning, diagramming this. the path of the two balls looked like a spilled box of uncooked spaghetti. But apparently it's a known shot that will leave them at opposite ends if hit well.
 
I have a faint memory of a post on here, I believe by russ chewning, diagramming this. the path of the two balls looked like a spilled box of uncooked spaghetti. But apparently it's a known shot that will leave them at opposite ends if hit well.

Yea this guy Nick Something-a -delo from the Boston area (strong A player, and nice guy) showed me this as a way out of this. If you miss you leave the person a sell out shot. Haven't done it in well over 3 years so it's a foggy memory (stopped playing in 2009 and start back up late last year). I will bang it a few times later today and see if I get the feeling for it.
 
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