how do i perform this shot (earl strickland)?

obr said:
its the first shot, the one that earl demonstrates. i remember there was a similar thread awhile back..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml4y67cFpi8
As stated many times, high left english. In addition to enough top spin to travel the length of the table, a key factor to this shot is the speed you hit the cue ball. In particular, on a shot where you hit the object ball almost full, the majority of the forward movement of the cue ball is transferred to the object ball. Thus, the forward movement of the cue ball is a "result" of spin (for the most part). Further, you can apply the "same" amount of top spin [or relatively the same for our purposes] while having the cue ball travel faster (by travel faster I mean forward velocity).

Thus, if you hit the ball "very hard" with one tip of top you may have the same cue ball rotation (top spin) as when you hit the cue ball "hard" with one and a half tips of top. Of couse these are just made up parameters, but you should get the idea.

With this in mind, the harder you hit the cue ball, the farther it will slide towards the side rail after contact with the object ball. This will change the path the cue ball takes on its 3 rail journey, but you will still have approximately the same total distance travelled. Keep in mind that hitting the cue ball harder does not necessarily equate to the cue ball moving "forward" faster, but hitting it harder does necessarily equate to the cue ball extending its tangential path after contact with the object ball. (nb, this does not apply to full ball hits)

So, all this being said, you need to adjust your top, your speed, and amount of left english to the shot. You can apply less left english to get the same or similar results if you hit the ball with a little less speed, but a little more top. If you hit the ball harder, you may need more left to get the ball to travel to the bottom rail at the right angle. Note that if you cheat the pocket to the inside a bit (I think it would be towards the long rail), you will end up with less side ways travel of the cue ball, and the cue ball will have a shallower approach towards the corner pocket. This can bring you precariously close to the side pocket after 2 rails.

-td
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
Actually, a wonderfully practical application of a similar type stroke is this (see below diagram). You have a very small angle on the 8-ball and need to get to the opposite side of the table for the 9-ball. By hitting it firm, not a whole lot of follow but quite a bit of side-spin, you can hit the rail and allow the spin to get you around the table. You need SOME follow to get the cueball moving but you don't want a whole lot because you'll go right toward the jaws of the pocket.
I kinda like this one in one pocket. It is a hard stroke with top - maybe a hair of inside. Hard means hard enough to get the cue ball the rebound off the bottom rail far enough to keep you from scratching. Top means only enough top to travel about 4-6 feet. You need to get the feel for this one.

CueTable Help



This one is also neat:

CueTable Help

 
td873 said:
As stated many times, high left english. In addition to enough top spin to travel the length of the table, a key factor to this shot is the speed you hit the cue ball. In particular, on a shot where you hit the object ball almost full, the majority of the forward movement of the cue ball is transferred to the object ball. Thus, the forward movement of the cue ball is a "result" of spin (for the most part). Further, you can apply the "same" amount of top spin [or relatively the same for our purposes] while having the cue ball travel faster (by travel faster I mean forward velocity).

Thus, if you hit the ball "very hard" with one tip of top you may have the same cue ball rotation (top spin) as when you hit the cue ball "hard" with one and a half tips of top. Of couse these are just made up parameters, but you should get the idea.

With this in mind, the harder you hit the cue ball, the farther it will slide towards the side rail after contact with the object ball. This will change the path the cue ball takes on its 3 rail journey, but you will still have approximately the same total distance travelled. Keep in mind that hitting the cue ball harder does not necessarily equate to the cue ball moving "forward" faster, but hitting it harder does necessarily equate to the cue ball extending its tangential path after contact with the object ball. (nb, this does not apply to full ball hits)

So, all this being said, you need to adjust your top, your speed, and amount of left english to the shot. You can apply less left english to get the same or similar results if you hit the ball with a little less speed, but a little more top. If you hit the ball harder, you may need more left to get the ball to travel to the bottom rail at the right angle. Note that if you cheat the pocket to the inside a bit (I think it would be towards the long rail), you will end up with less side ways travel of the cue ball, and the cue ball will have a shallower approach towards the corner pocket. This can bring you precariously close to the side pocket after 2 rails.

-td


This is an excellent description. I'd also like to add some of the negative outcomes that can occur:

1. Too much follow and you will get an unwanted bend
2. Not enough follow and you will stun and the cueball will barely move
3. Not enough spin and the cueball will not travel around the table
4. Not enough speed and you will head right toward the jaws of the pocket (you may not scratch but you can forget about getting around the table)
5. Too much speed and you can actually jump off the table. Not entirely rare, hitting a ball full in the face with a lot of speed and follow will cause a bit of hop. If you're near the rail, you can end up hopping right off the table.
 
It looks like Earl is cueing center ball or a little lower, then he strokes it and drops his elbow big time.
 
td873 said:
I kinda like this one in one pocket. It is a hard stroke with top - maybe a hair of inside. Hard means hard enough to get the cue ball the rebound off the bottom rail far enough to keep you from scratching. Top means only enough top to travel about 4-6 feet. You need to get the feel for this one.

CueTable Help



This one is also neat:

CueTable Help



Everyone take note. TD873 can play some.
 
JohnnyP said:
It looks like Earl is cueing center ball or a little lower, then he strokes it and drops his elbow big time.


Yeah I noticed that too and not that this is unimportant but this is really Earl-specific. These are Earl mechanics and it's not necessary to duplicate in order to shoot this shot.

I'm meeting up with a friend of mine tonight who has a video camera. I'm hoping I can capture exactly how sensitive this shot can be. It's easy to watch a video and say, "Oh, Earl must've used x" but the truth is, there's more to it. Hitting it with top left, I can make that cueball do a lot of different things.
 
JohnnyP...Earl dropping his elbow has nothing to do with the ability to hit this shot effectively or repeatably. All it takes is a good stroke...which does NOT necessitate an elbow drop.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

JohnnyP said:
It looks like Earl is cueing center ball or a little lower, then he strokes it and drops his elbow big time.
 
BRKNRUN said:
For me that particular shot lays perfect for using BHE...(The CB is the perfect distance from the OB).......IF you have your BHE dialed in on the cue you are using you won't have to compensate for deflection at all on that shot....(The BHE does it for you)

Set up to shoot it straight in...Apply your BHE and stroke it...

Yes, Earl is using back hand english on this shot. Notice that he aims the ball with bottom center, and then "swerves" into high left.

A lot of instructors will insist that there is no shot that you can make with BHE consistently that they can't make with a level, straight stroke. I don't know if I believe that, though. JD from "Playing Off the Rail" in Seattle, once showed me how smoothly he uses BHE english on certain shots, and said he learned the technique from Tang Hoa. He then proceded to make some position shots that just did not look possible. When JD was explaining where he was intending to put the cue ball, another top NW player came up and said it wasn't possible.

JD asked him to put his money where his mouth was, the player declined. JD then demonstrated the shot, getting MUCH FURTHER than the other player said was impossible.

To this day, I am 100% of the efficacy of BHE. I have practiced a lot on it. It just WORKS.

Russ
 
A lot of instructors will insist that there is no shot that you can make with BHE consistently that they can't make with a level, straight stroke.

I'm no instructor, but I agree with them, simply because there's no way you can hit the CB with BHE that can't be duplicated with a straight stroke. All BHE does is change the angle the tip is moving when it hits the CB - how hard is that to do another way? What Tang Hoa does different than you or me (well, at least me) is hit the shot hard, with maximum spin, and on demand.

pj
chgo
 
I dunno... The tip hitting the cue ball at a different angle seems liike a pretty significant change, to me. From my personal experience, I have to hit the shot harder, and compensate for deflection at a much greater degree when I use a straight follow through, than when I use BHE. Using a normal follow through, to get accustomed to doing these sorts of shots at all different speeds, you have to be accustomed to handling all different levels of deflection. For this reason, most people shy away from situations where they have to do the three rail follow like Earl does.

The way I was taught to use BHE, I am always aiming at balls using center english, so that in itself is going to lead to more consistency. To ME, it "almost" seems like deflection does not occur at near the rate with BHE as it does with a straight follow through. Just my 2 cents... :D :D :D

Russ
 
Patrick Johnson said:
I'm no instructor, but I agree with them, simply because there's no way you can hit the CB with BHE that can't be duplicated with a straight stroke. All BHE does is change the angle the tip is moving when it hits the CB - how hard is that to do another way? What Tang Hoa does different than you or me (well, at least me) is hit the shot hard, with maximum spin, and on demand.

pj
chgo


If you hit the CB in the same spot with PE and then set up and using BHE strike the exact same position on the CB you will get more english with BHE.

To get the equivialnt english with PE you will have to hit slightly further out more on the CB....Which means more deflection compensation.

Not only does BHE do the deflection compensation for you...It also allows you to play closer to center CB.

Also...for me anyway...It is much easier for mee to find center CB than it is to try and guesstimate the CB contact point and guesstimate the amount of deflection I am going to get from hitting that spot on the CB....and then have to use that off center CB spot to aim.

There are times when I will use PE and times when even using BHE I will still need to add some compensation for deflection (based on lengh of shot and or power used)

But...for the particular shat addressed in this thread....In my opinion this shot is layed out perfect for using BHE to apply (any degree of side english) with out needing to compensate for deflection......I don't think you can say that with PE on this shot...as you apply more english you need to adjust your aim each time.....With BHE on this shot...I only need one aim.
 
OMG, this talk about BHE or PE or SBSSE is all completely unrelated. This shot requires a fairly sophisticated degree of comfort using english. How you attain this comfort is completely personal. It doesn't matter. You need to know how to use english to perform this shot and that's that. I bet you can arrive at the exact same point on the cueball using the donkey english method..
 
If you hit the CB in the same spot with PE and then set up and using BHE strike the exact same position on the CB you will get more english with BHE.

If you're hitting the same spot on the CB and the CB is going in the same direction, then you're getting the same amount of spin. Anything else is physically impossible.

You can hit the same spot and get more spin by hitting at a different angle (which is what I think you're imagining), but then the CB's direction will change. You can't have one without the other. Sorry, I wish it was true.

pj
chgo
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
OMG, this talk about BHE or PE or SBSSE is all completely unrelated. This shot requires a fairly sophisticated degree of comfort using english. How you attain this comfort is completely personal. It doesn't matter. You need to know how to use english to perform this shot and that's that. I bet you can arrive at the exact same point on the cueball using the donkey english method..


I agree....

I tried getting it back on track at the end of my last post in that I said that this particular shot is perfect for BHE....(That is related and was all my origonal post on this thread eluded to)

I did not spin it into a BHE / PE arguement, but I did defend my origonal statement.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
If you're hitting the same spot on the CB and the CB is going in the same direction, then you're getting the same amount of spin. Anything else is physically impossible.

You can hit the same spot and get more spin by hitting at a different angle (which is what I think you're imagining), but then the CB's direction will change. You can't have one without the other. Sorry, I wish it was true.

pj
chgo


You win, your right...

I won't continue this discussion with you because it is not what this thread is about, and you don't seem to understand what I am trying to say..and even if you did...you probably would not agree anyway.....so limit yourself to only PE...fine by me..
 
BRKNRUN said:
I agree....

I tried getting it back on track at the end of my last post in that I said that this particular shot is perfect for BHE....(That is related and was all my origonal post on this thread eluded to)

I did not spin it into a BHE / PE arguement, but I did defend my origonal statement.


Well, have you tried the Donkey English Method? For this shot, get down on the shot and then, with the tip of your cue, draw a backwards N and shoot.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
Well, have you tried the Donkey English Method? For this shot, get down on the shot and then, with the tip of your cue, draw a backwards N and shoot.


That is a method I have yet to try......But I can think of a few that probably have it mastered...
 
BRKNRUN said:
That is a method I have yet to try......But I can think of a few that probably have it mastered...


Well, you work on this first. When you're ready to use top right spin, I'll tell you which letter to use.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
Well, you work on this first. When you're ready to use top right spin, I'll tell you which letter to use.

What???

Please don't tell me you want to teach me the Donky English Method... I don't want to have to refer to you as the Donkey Master...
 
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