BoomerMueller
Registered
any suggestions would be appreicatted.
How do i remove the blue chalk residue from my shaft.
- Thread starter BoomerMueller
- Start date
Majic E-Rasor.
What I do not CHALK over Shaft, and you can used QSmother Sanding Films to CLEAN up the Shaft like NEW, and Than Use Q Way as a Shaft Conditioner, to keep you shaft looking NEWs, and Slick as SNOT.
What I do not CHALK over Shaft, and you can used QSmother Sanding Films to CLEAN up the Shaft like NEW, and Than Use Q Way as a Shaft Conditioner, to keep you shaft looking NEWs, and Slick as SNOT.
Last edited:
millertimeia
Registered
cleaning your shaft your self
go to any hyvee or walmart etc. and buy a mr clean magic eraser damp it and rub it up and down for about 3 mins and then dry it with a very heavey soft cloth and it will look brand new
go to any hyvee or walmart etc. and buy a mr clean magic eraser damp it and rub it up and down for about 3 mins and then dry it with a very heavey soft cloth and it will look brand new
I don't really worry about the chalk dust in the shaft, I clean my cue after each use and it will build up a blueing over time. That doesn't mean my shaft is dirty its still smooth as brand new. What I don't like is putting all kinds of crazy chemicals on the shaft wood, or sanding it to clean it.
It takes a long time to break in a shaft right, and sanding will ruin the dimensions eventually.
Rossingol lighter fluid works just fine on a cloth, I prefer it for cleaning than anything else as its oil not water and can't damage the shaft or cause it to warp...if anything it will seal it better. Plus petroleum distallates are usually good for getting gunk out of just about anything.
Once you got your shaft like you want it, then just always keep your hands clean. Then clean your shaft after each or during each session if you play long enough.
Take a damp papertowel and buff the shaft hot, then take a dry one and buff it hot again, finish it off by buffing with a piece of brown cardboard....good to go perfect every time. You do that and you wont wear out the dimensions you like, it wont ever get sticky or dull, and should stay clean tho after some years the shaft will get darker but it will be more even in color not splotted with chalk.
Thats the old school way of doing it, people talk about all kinds of products but this way is the tried and true for generations....and you don't have to buy nothing just a paper towel and some old cardboard.
The only time I ever need to put one of my shafts back on a lathe to be "re-conditioned" is if i damage it and put a dent on it or scratch the heck out of it. New clean shafts get dingy, sticky and unsmooth b/c of dirty hands, especially wet/oily dirty hands. The damp cloth +heat/friction break down all the old skin oils and goop, the second dry cloth gets the excess and cardboard burnishes baby smooth.
It works alot like trying to get cigarette smoke off your winshield, alcohol and newspaper....the alcohol + the friction of the newspaper is what takes it off....better than windex and all the other crap.
And remember just a DAMP CLOTH, NOT WET!!! Once you stark wicking the shaft with the damp cloth up and down really fast it shouldn't be but maybe 10sec or so till its basically dry. If its damp the pores wont really open up and your going to just remove the surface residue (exactly what you want) if you use a wet cloth/papertowel then its going to open up the pores and it'll be harder to get that perfect sealed/smooth burnish with the cardboard.
1)buff w/damp paper towel
2)buff w/dry paper towel
3)burnish/buff w/ brown cardboard
anything else is just uncivilized IMOP lol
It takes a long time to break in a shaft right, and sanding will ruin the dimensions eventually.
Rossingol lighter fluid works just fine on a cloth, I prefer it for cleaning than anything else as its oil not water and can't damage the shaft or cause it to warp...if anything it will seal it better. Plus petroleum distallates are usually good for getting gunk out of just about anything.
Once you got your shaft like you want it, then just always keep your hands clean. Then clean your shaft after each or during each session if you play long enough.
Take a damp papertowel and buff the shaft hot, then take a dry one and buff it hot again, finish it off by buffing with a piece of brown cardboard....good to go perfect every time. You do that and you wont wear out the dimensions you like, it wont ever get sticky or dull, and should stay clean tho after some years the shaft will get darker but it will be more even in color not splotted with chalk.
Thats the old school way of doing it, people talk about all kinds of products but this way is the tried and true for generations....and you don't have to buy nothing just a paper towel and some old cardboard.
The only time I ever need to put one of my shafts back on a lathe to be "re-conditioned" is if i damage it and put a dent on it or scratch the heck out of it. New clean shafts get dingy, sticky and unsmooth b/c of dirty hands, especially wet/oily dirty hands. The damp cloth +heat/friction break down all the old skin oils and goop, the second dry cloth gets the excess and cardboard burnishes baby smooth.
It works alot like trying to get cigarette smoke off your winshield, alcohol and newspaper....the alcohol + the friction of the newspaper is what takes it off....better than windex and all the other crap.
And remember just a DAMP CLOTH, NOT WET!!! Once you stark wicking the shaft with the damp cloth up and down really fast it shouldn't be but maybe 10sec or so till its basically dry. If its damp the pores wont really open up and your going to just remove the surface residue (exactly what you want) if you use a wet cloth/papertowel then its going to open up the pores and it'll be harder to get that perfect sealed/smooth burnish with the cardboard.
1)buff w/damp paper towel
2)buff w/dry paper towel
3)burnish/buff w/ brown cardboard
anything else is just uncivilized IMOP lol
Different strokes
I agree with greyghost. I prefer the 'blueing'. I takes a lot of missed shots to get that aging on a shaft.
Personal preference dictates.
I like the shaft 'blued' (not dirty-just light blue) and the ferrule pristine clean.
Just my opinion.
Take care
I agree with greyghost. I prefer the 'blueing'. I takes a lot of missed shots to get that aging on a shaft.
Personal preference dictates.
I like the shaft 'blued' (not dirty-just light blue) and the ferrule pristine clean.
Just my opinion.
Take care
yep your dead on the money, its like cowboy clean...not hospital clean. You know what a snow white shaft usually says...either this is a show cue or i'm so equipment blind that my cue has to be brand new to work properly.
Cuemakers seal the shaft for a reason....so all that should need to be done is remove the dirt/oil/chalk from the surface of the shaft...if you do that on a regular basis the shaft will age and darken given time...but it wont have anykind of chunks of chalk or something, it just picks up a patina from the dust.
I take really good care of my shafts and they take care of me...thats all i know. If your having to go the routes of magic erasers/sandpaper etc IMOP your being lazy and not taking care and cleaning your tool routinely.
I'm with GG. Don't clean mine too often, but when I do I NEVER put water on it. I know the Magic Eraser works great, but it's the water part that I don't like. I use VM&P naptha on a paper towel when I do clean mine. It's basically the same thing as Cigarette Lighter Fluid, but the VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naptha is something I keep in gallon cans around my fly rod shop... it doesn't raise grain and it is an excellent cleaner.
Bob
Bob
Mister Clean Magic Ereasor, slilghtly dampened with alcohol or water. You will not belileve how easy it is. When done the shaft will feel kind of "hairy". Just wipe it with some 800 a few swipes, then 1500 a few swipes and burnish with leather. Viola!! Lilke new or better!! :groucho:
For myself, I use the Magic Eraser and then use brown paper bag to burnish it once it is clean.
Even a 1200 grit or whatever sandpaper is gonna eventually reduce the diameter of your shaft. I feel as if cleaning with Magic Eraser and burnishing with brown paper bag or leather is the best way to keep the cue clean and smooth without changing the specs of the shaft.
Even a 1200 grit or whatever sandpaper is gonna eventually reduce the diameter of your shaft. I feel as if cleaning with Magic Eraser and burnishing with brown paper bag or leather is the best way to keep the cue clean and smooth without changing the specs of the shaft.
alex917
Registered
after you get your cue shaft conditioned next time you get a tip, everytime you play you should wash your hands when your done and wipe you shaft with the used paper towels diluted soapy water will not be too abrasive to the shaft and also the natural oils from your skin will rub off on the shaft leaving it smooth
Believe it or not, go to any auto parts store and buy a bottle of Mothers Chrome Polish. A little on a paper towel and not only will it remove chalk, but it will be smooth as glass...
use your tongue. lick up and down the shaft and the chalk'll come off
mark hansen
Registered
I agree that mr. Clean Magic Eraser is the best, but what was not mentiomed was that instead of using water, use de-natured alcohol