How do these get converted?????

[HollyWood]

I have 2 willie Hoppe Titlist cues- ( stamped in gold letters. They are about .756 28 inches from the butt. Every one says too small. It is killing me. They are new cues from the seventy's. Are there any options in making them conversions ??? can I have the pin in the shaft?? or do I have to put the joint almost on the points and add to the butt?? Thanks in advance for help and ideas from all the cue makers here!! Mark

 

[Sheldon]

Whoops! Thanks KJ....

.756 @ 28" is indeed too small. A definite no-go with out adding a handle, and will probably look a little off if you do. I've done some like this though, and they turned out good.

 

[KJ Cues]

Sheldon,
I think you mis-read his numbers. He said .756 (seven), not .856.

Mark,
How well do you like very skinny cues?

I don't know that I can be of much help here other than to tell you that everyone who's told you that the cues are too small, is right.

Even to get the joint dia. near .800" you'd have to come back 4" from your current joint-end, which would put you just that much closer to the points.
That doesn't mean that there is nothing that can be done, it just means that the cues wouldn't look very traditional. So what, be creative.

If you want traditional, not likely.
If you want custom, it can be done!

 

[Piercyexclusive]

I have 2 willie Hoppe Titlist cues- ( stamped in gold letters. They are about .756 28 inches from the butt. Every one says too small. It is killing me. They are new cues from the seventy's. Are there any options in making them conversions ??? can I have the pin in the shaft?? or do I have to put the joint almost on the points and add to the butt?? Thanks in advance for help and ideas from all the cue makers here!! Mark

I say add a wrap extend the butt with same wood as the point

 

[JoeyInCali]

I have 2 willie Hoppe Titlist cues- ( stamped in gold letters. They are about .756 28 inches from the butt. Every one says too small. It is killing me. They are new cues from the seventy's. Are there any options in making them conversions ??? can I have the pin in the shaft?? or do I have to put the joint almost on the points and add to the butt?? Thanks in advance for help and ideas from all the cue makers here!! Mark

What is it 25" from the bottom ?
If it's around .880", send it to me and I'll make you the conversion.

 

[HollyWood]

To everyone who posted and PM'ed. thanks

Thanks Sheldon, KJ, Piercyexclusive, and Joey. Great ideas from everyone!! Seriously , Gentlemen thanks for the help. A load off my mind. mark

 

[cueman]

If you do not want to put a handle in it. And you want to keep the full splice with no wrap. Add a butt sleeve to the back end. Use your imagination and you should be able to come up with something that will look nice and give you those extra inches that are needed to get the joint up to size.

 

[Trent]

on my first sneakie conversion i accidently cut it down to shinny to i added a but sleeve as chris suggested and it worked well putting the points very close to the joint.

id say add a handle to yours and do a long extened leather wrap with a nice small buttsleeve.

 

[AtLarge]

My experience as a user is that the joint diameter doesn't always have to be as large as it usually is (0.820" - 0.860") to produce a good playing cue.

I have a two-piece Brunswick Willie Hoppe cue from the early 1960's. The joint diameter is 0.750". Two years ago, Mike Cochran fit a Scruggs shaft to it. The cue played fine 45 years ago and probably plays even better now.

 

[HollyWood]

thanks again Guys

Thanks to Cueman,Trent,and At large- thanks for more ideas fella's!! Like I said before (they need to be used because of the fine condition and the full splice colors.(plus I bought them for 175. each. and a converted cue is worth more than a 1 piece,more convent to carry etc. And I don't have a conversion yet. Have a great night mark

 

[anthonyterriel]

I have 2 willie Hoppe Titlist cues- ( stamped in gold letters. They are about .756 28 inches from the butt. Every one says too small. It is killing me. They are new cues from the seventy's. Are there any options in making them conversions ??? can I have the pin in the shaft?? or do I have to put the joint almost on the points and add to the butt?? Thanks in advance for help and ideas from all the cue makers here!! Mark

good luck ont he cues. I can hope to see pictures of them when they are done. I am currently looking for someone to do a cue or buy one that already made. I would buy one as longas it is UNIQUE for me.

 

[Mr Hoppe]

My experience as a user is that the joint diameter doesn't always have to be as large as it usually is (0.820" - 0.860") to produce a good playing cue.

I have a two-piece Brunswick Willie Hoppe cue from the early 1960's. The joint diameter is 0.750". Two years ago, Mike Cochran fit a Scruggs shaft to it. The cue played fine 45 years ago and probably plays even better now.

Herman Rambow would think that a cue with a joint of .850" was a telephone pole rather than a pool cue. Just because it has become today's standard does not mean that there are no other options.

 

[Piercyexclusive]

Thanks Sheldon, KJ, Piercyexclusive, and Joey. Great ideas from everyone!! Seriously , Gentlemen thanks for the help. A load off my mind. mark

no problem. if there's anymore questions you may have that I coulld help you on dont be shy to pm me.

 

[TripXQ]

conversion cues

Mark,
A lot depends on you and your tastes and your desires with these Titlest pieces. They may be too small, as others have said, for classical designs.

If you play at the novice level then having the ultimate "today" dimensions may not be necessary. You can possibly have something done with these cues that can be very pleasant and respectable for a lower to medium level player.

If you are a world beater, on the other hand, you may not be satisfied with the final outcome.

I would love to see them in person and have a chance to measure them. I would then ask some detailed questions about you to come up with the best attempt I could make. Then I would like to discuss with you the final possibilities that I come up with. You would be under no obligation to proceed. The cues would be shipped back at no extra cost to you, unless you accept one of my possibilities. You would pay for only one way shipping to me.

Let me know if I can help you further. This sounds like a fun challenge. Its always fun to see and hold another Titlest.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues

 

[desi2960]

can do

i might be able to do them like i did this one using a solid one piece elk antler for the handle area.

chuck

 

[scdiveteam]

:winknudge:

Herman Rambow would think that a cue with a joint of .850" was a telephone pole rather than a pool cue. Just because it has become today's standard does not mean that there are no other options.

Hi Troy,

Rambow had big gaps between his teeth similar to Shrek the cartoon ogre. After eating pop corn or pork ribs his cues often doubled as tooth pics. Hence the skinny geometry of the cue. He was a "function" before "form" type of guy that liked his teeth to be clean and free of debris!!.

This is a little known fact!:winknudge:


Rick

 

[champ94wfo]

Titleist conversion

Although the pictures aren't very good, it is easy to see that by adding a sleeve to the bottom, the butt can still be .850" - .860" at the joint, and still keeping the full splice.
IMO, if thinking about cutting up a one piece Titleist to add a handle section, why not just build / order a new forearm with the traditional Titleist veneer colors. You have now lost the full splice, and you could then chose any point / butt wood desired (ebony), and probably would be of a similar cost vs buying a one piece to start with, and then building it.
If the forearm is too thin from the start, the points will end up too near the joint. and to me that doesn't look right either.
The two shown had enough meat in the forearm, the other 3 out of a lot of 5 cues didn't make it.
On the other hand , I have experimented with a few conversions that ended up being under .800" at the joint, and they shot surprisingly well.
Thanks,
Rudie

 

[Mr Hoppe]

Rudie, is that a padauk Titlist you have there? If so, I've only seen two others, and I now own them both... It's a real distinctive, and rare, wood for a Titlist cue.
Mr H