How far can you draw?

It's fun to see how far you can draw, but it is a useless shot 99.99% of the time in actual play. It also depends on the cloth, the old heavy cloth was alot harder to draw on, 760 is alot easier than 860, so its difficult to compair who can do it best on the interner because of the different conditions, cloth, rails, humidity(big factor) age of cloth, cue etc. Mike Masse or Larry Nevel are probably the favorites off the top of my head,

On 860 I can draw the ball from the short rail down to the other end and then bounce up past the side pocket most of the time on a new Diamond table with good rubber., depending on which cue I use, however when I do draw that far I have no control where the rock is gonna stop, once in a while I'll get it up to the top rail so thats 17' I took away a foot because of the distance between the rock and OB. Its fun, but what is more fun is drawing 3.25' when you need exactly that much draw,
 
Last edited:
The best I have done it 18 feet (2 table lengths) on a 9 foot table.
I can consistently draw full table on 9 footers, and about 50% consistency on 1.5 table lengths.

I'm still working on the Fast Larry shot with the CB frozen on the head rail and getting full table length draw, but I won't dare try it one handed.
 
crappoolguy said:
Put the CB about 10 inches away from the short rail, the object in the jaws of the far corner pocket and see how far you can draw back! I tried this today and I just wanna see how close I am to the average AZer. :)
Click to expand...
My table: Brunswick Medalist 9'. Simonis 860. Aramith balls (with the measels cue ball).

With the cue ball 2.25" from the rail, I get about this much draw on a straight in shot.

CueTable Help



Shooting this shot, I get around the table and around a foot from scratching (some 2 feet, some less, but around a foot).

CueTable Help



-td
 
td873 said:
My table: Brunswick Medalist 9'. Simonis 860. Aramith balls (with the measels cue ball).

With the cue ball 2.25" from the rail, I get about this much draw on a straight in shot.

CueTable Help



Shooting this shot, I get around the table and around a foot from scratching (some 2 feet, some less, but around a foot).

CueTable Help



-td
Click to expand...

I came across you on Youtube doing the first shot. You have a damn fine stroke.

Very impressed.
 
mark...While you certainly can draw the CB hitting only "1 tip" below center, you can just as certainly draw the CB much more easily, and with less speed, striking at maximum draw...which would be 3 tips below center. That's just simple physics. Good players must master all level hits on the CB.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

HollyWood said:
Learn how to draw the ball never going below 1 cue tip below centerball. mark
Click to expand...
 
Here's a tip for ya...

maximum draw...which would be 3 tips below center
Click to expand...

Maximum draw is about 1/2 inch from centerball, which is about the width of a 12.75 mm tip, so how does the width of one tip come to be described as "3 tips" of offset? And what about the fact that there are so many different tip sizes? I'm not trying to single you out, Scott; there are as many definitions of "1 tip" of offset as there are pool players - that's the problem.

I think this "old school" terminology communicates more confusion than information and we should start describing tip offset in terms of inches or fractions of a ball's radius - i.e., "maximum draw = 1/2 inch" or "maximum draw = 1/2 radius (1/2 way to the ball's edge)".

pj
chgo
 
Last edited:
depends on the cloth too.. and type of balls too! i often draw flawlessly, and sometime in other rooms i find it hard to draw...
 
...which is EXACTLY why I despise the term 'tips of english', and why I show all my students (and showed you too) the size of the contact patch between the tip and CB...which is a 1/8" circle...or 3mm (the same size as the red circle on a red circle CB). Therefore, maximum draw is 3 circles, stacked one below the other. You're right, that 1/2" below center is pretty close to "as low as you can go".

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Patrick Johnson said:
Maximum draw is about 1/2 inch from centerball, which is about the width of a 12.75 mm tip, so how does the width of one tip come to be described as "3 tips" of offset? And what about the fact that there are so many different tip sizes? I'm not trying to single you out, Scott; there are as many definitions of "1 tip" of offset as there are pool players - that's the problem.

I think this "old school" terminology communicates more confusion than information and we should start describing tip offset in terms of inches or fractions of a ball's radius - i.e., "maximum draw = 1/2 inch" or "maximum draw = 1/2 radius (1/2 way to the ball's edge)".

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
 
Scott:
I despise the term 'tips of english'
Click to expand...

Testify, Brother Scott. And while we're at it, let's talk about the heretics who think "offset" means how far they move the centerline of the stick. It is clearly God's intent that it mean how far from center we actually hit the ball.

Amen.

pj
chgo
 
It's fun to see how far you can draw, but it is a useless shot 99.99% of the time in actual play.
Click to expand...

Table length draw doesn't come up a lot, but having a stroke that's capable of that - being able to consistently hit the CB within 1mm of where you want to rather than within 5mm - makes a huge difference in your success with all kinds of shots, not just getting maximum spin.

We advance at pool by building on things we learn. Our position play improves as our aiming improves, our aiming improves as our stance and stroke improve, etc. I think hitting the CB really accurately is perhaps the most overlooked of the fundamental skills in pool, and ironically I think it might have the most far reaching benefits.

pj
chgo
 
Scott Lee said:
...which is EXACTLY why I despise the term 'tips of english', and why I show all my students (and showed you too) the size of the contact patch between the tip and CB...which is a 1/8" circle...or 3mm (the same size as the red circle on a red circle CB). Therefore, maximum draw is 3 circles, stacked one below the other. You're right, that 1/2" below center is pretty close to "as low as you can go".

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Click to expand...

Hi Scott,

"Pretty close" is a relative term and a lot depends in the roundness of the tip. It is well known...although not accepted by some, that a dime radius permits a lower tip placement than a less rounded shape.

But 1/2 inch below center is about 1/8 inch above the stripe on "wide stripe" balls...which is considered to be the lowest margin for draw shots without miscueing.

Those with reasonably sporty strokes can achieve tip contact right ON the lower edge of the stripe without fear of miscueing...at least with a dime shape, well scuffed and chalked tip. (assuming normal playing condition stroke speed. VERY hard shots will, of course, miscue/jump the ball if struck that low)

Of course, the bottom portion of the "tip circumference circle" is placed well below the bottom edge of the stripe because it is the upper portion of that circle that will contact the CB on a downward angled shot like almost all draw shots must be.



I'm not being picky...just pointing out that since 1/8 inch is one quarter of the half inch "draw margin" being discussed here, it is not an insignificant difference.

I'm also chiming in since many players think that the center of the tip is what contacts the CB and they therefore, orient the center of the tip to the bottom of the stripe in the belief that that is the lowest possible position for the tip to be...which, as you know, is incorrect.

Regards,
Jim
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Table length draw doesn't come up a lot, but having a stroke that's capable of that - being able to consistently hit the CB within 1mm of where you want to rather than within 5mm - makes a huge difference in your success with all kinds of shots, not just getting maximum spin.

We advance at pool by building on things we learn. Our position play improves as our aiming improves, our aiming improves as our stance and stroke improve, etc. I think hitting the CB really accurately is perhaps the most overlooked of the fundamental skills in pool, and ironically I think it might have the most far reaching benefits.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more. IMHO, striking the CB at unintended places is one of the leading causes of missed shots due to unintended throw/curve/squirt.

And yet half the B players and lower couldn't tell you how much "outside" they intended to impart. They will just say..."Oh a tip or so of left." And half of them don't even know what a tip of left actually is....which I know BUGS Scott Lee! (-:

Regards,
Jim
 
I have a crap draw stroke due to bad mechanics but i set this shot up the other day and actually came all the way back to hit the rail and maybe come a few inches off the rail,i was very happy with my result but my draw stroke is something im going to work on. :)
 
Fatboy said:
in England they call it "Screw"
Click to expand...


I know. In actual fact I'm actually an English snooker player who always calls it screw. I can see a little sense in screw, but why draw? Also, I can now pretty consistantly do a table length screw shot (with a bit of help with my new 11mm cue!) .
 
Last edited:
Not sure if 5 would be average but depending on the table and the night i can be from 3 inches to all the way across the table and still coming off the other rail...distance isn't as big an issue for me as is control...draw too far at the wrong time and not far enough on the others
 
?How far can you draw???, maybe the question should have been, how far can you draw under perfect conditions/

Clean Balls

New Clean cloth

how and Dry in the pool room, as barometric pressure, humidity, and temperature effect playing conditions.

Perfect condition I can draw a Table Length + A half hitting three rails.
arff.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top