Shaft jps keep crap and dust out of the pin hole. Dust getting in there wears out the threads a lot faster.
How important are joint protectors???
- Thread starter Rackemep
- Start date
if you want to tell the difference between shafts, you can put different marks between the facing/ threads with a sharpie.
I have joint protectors for my cue and usually use them, but I also usually have my shiit in a soft case...and my cues have the g-10 pins.
Jim baxters output is flawless.
I have joint protectors for my cue and usually use them, but I also usually have my shiit in a soft case...and my cues have the g-10 pins.
Jim baxters output is flawless.
I bought some inexpensive black aluminium ones for $10 that work great
I have bought 2 sets from Jim Baxter, so far. One set of purple heart/phenolic 5/16x18 pin for a Schmelke purple heart sneaky pete, I had owned. And one set of radial pin grey Dymondwood J/P's made for my Poison jump cue.I also have a black set of 3/8x10 Aluminum J/P's from Seybert's that work really well. They are plain as can be, but do the job.
I used them to protect the pin, keep fuzz from getting in the shaft (that's being a bit compulsive), and to identify which shaft and which cue butt I want to grab.
For the cost, you can't beat Jim's quality and speed. He had made the set of Dymondwood J/P's for me within an hour of ordering them and they shipped out same day!
I used them to protect the pin, keep fuzz from getting in the shaft (that's being a bit compulsive), and to identify which shaft and which cue butt I want to grab.
For the cost, you can't beat Jim's quality and speed. He had made the set of Dymondwood J/P's for me within an hour of ordering them and they shipped out same day!
No...it's the dropping them on the floor about every other time I remove one...and having it roll across the room and under a table or something!!! :sorry:
I come closer to damaging my cues trying to catch a falling (dropped) JP than I've ever come close to damaging a cue getting it out of the case.
Maniac
Those are probably the ones I mentioned in an earlier post as being middle-priced JP's...$10 as opposed to $4. You could spend a lot more I suppose...but then you'd just be going for the artwork/craftsmanship.
The aluminum ones are taller than most of the plastic ones also...so you had better make sure your case is tall enough to accept them.
Maniac
If you're using Uni-Loc joints, anything that gets into the joint can ruin your cue. They're far less popular than they were 10 years ago (probably for this reason) but back then, I saw quite a few cues that simply wouldn't come apart because there was metallic dust in the joint. I used Uni-Loc for years, rarely had problems but always had joint protectors. My current cue uses a standard thread, I no longer use joint protectors and I've never had a problem.
At the joint ends, there is no finish to seal the wood or shaft threads from exposure to atmospheric changes and moisture. Although not an absolute necessity for all cues, 1) it's cheap protection and 2) it's also a cool way to further accent/accessorize the cue and add value, that the cue is special to you or collectible.
LOL .... I started out doing that, but with 14 shafts I couldn't count the dots and lines anymore. :thumbup:
My oldest cue has been with me since new in 1988 (red McD D-26 in the avatar) and it's never had joint protectors and always been in a 3x6 Porper case. I marked the two shafts' threads with different colors to differentiate them. Never felt the need for JPs, I might feel differently if I had been using a soft case all these years, but it just seems like one more thing to slow someone down.
I'd rather spend that money on table time.
I'd rather spend that money on table time.
Necessary? Probably not. I'm OCD about certain things and when my cue is apart without jp's it seems incomplete. Here goes some more praise for Jim Baxter. He does a great job. My jp's just happen to be in my avatar right now.
I hear that
I only have abott 10 and only 2- the original ones-are easily confused. I like ringwork that doesn't match :shrug:
I've also got this habit of sanding the shafts with 1200 while I'm playing. I like very long pro taper so I typically sand the shafts down low where the taper gets fat and then bring up the dust to the top of the shaft for the last few times.
The taper changes over time and my favorite shafts change with that, so it's just easier to use the JP's.
*cheapo shafts BTW*I have them but don't use them. I'm sure they add a measure of protection from dropping the butt on the pin side but overall they are just a hassle. Taking them off, putting them on, finding them after you've been playing for hours, remembering to find them after you've been playing for a few hours lol, Doesn't seem like a hassle but after doing this several times a day, almost everyday for a while, yeah they just end up in the junk pocket of your case. But they are a cool accessory for your cue and those penny ones that Jim made a few posts up are awesome looking, I'd definitely get a set to bling up a nice cue.
I own an expensive Kikel cue and had Dave make matching cue protectors for it. He was not too excited about doing them at first but relented on the understanding that I would make a protective pouch for them so they would be protected!! Gotta love that!! Necessary no not really but when you have an expensive cue it just isn't right to not have matching joint protectors, imo..
