How many cues is too much?

boogeyman said:
One cue for me is too much.
I'm rather spartan. I don't like carrying around equipment. I play off the wall because it make me feel free, relaxed, and unburdened.
Not sure what I'll do if I ever have to play in a venue that doesn't offer house cues. I guess I'll cross that bridge when it appears.

Though if Joss ever wants to sponsor me, that's the only cue I might ever "burden" myself with. That's a very big might however.
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One's too many, a thousand's not enuf.
 
Chopdoc said:
Player? 3-4 is fine. One is great.

Collector?

Well, how much space do you have? Display...storage...safe...closet...room...workbench...photography...lathe...computer...

A collection can be a single case with a few cues...or rooms in your house...

Look at the Glenn collection.

I have two parameters. I will not let the cue collection crowd out the gun collection and I will not let it force out The Crazy Redhead...for now...
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Now there's a man who will stay married for life. 👍🏻
 
I think I have 12 cues, no high end stuff, 11 more if I were to include the 0ne piece cues that came with my GCI, I think they are Tru Force cues? Anyhoo if the question want instead of have I see cues that I want everyday, if I had bottomless pockets there would probably be a cue shortage for everyone else as most would be in my possession. 😊
 
Mensabum said:
I need a burglar, or big fire so I can start all over.😁
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I have a hiding spot for them. Unfortunately, my spot is getting full. Another excuse is when my wife asks if I got a new cue after putting out the new cue out of storage, I would say, it's the same cue as I have always used. Good thing her memory isn't that good or just take my word for it or just ignore it.
 
hello said:
I never understood why someone would switch cues all the time, needing to adjust to the deflection and overall feel...every cue I ever used (and there were only a few) I used for several years exclusively...just my two cents.
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I understand your sentiments and until I found out and learned there was a set of cue specs that was my sweet spot.
In the early 2000’s, I switched from playing a heavier piloted steel joint pool cue to a lighter weight, different joint cue.

I played so much better and enjoyed playing pool more than I retired my Runde Schon and gradually added other cues.
However, I made sure every custom cue I ordered made used the same specs so that all the cues were closely alike.

IMO, this simplifies and ensures that I can remove any cue in my 6x12 case and switch cues with very little discernible
difference in the hit, tactile feel & balance of the cues. I was very careful about whom I hired to build my custom cues.

I’ve previously posted why I have so many cues when 3-4 seems like a pretty ideal number when actually all you need
is a cue. Just a single cue is all you really need and you can use a house cue for breaking. Here is what I have learned.

3/4 of the pool players I know or meet know very little about their pool cues other the cue tip or the cue maker. I think
that is just absurd how many readers really understand pool cue anatomy or what comprises a cue’s weight & feel.

I am not here to educate, lecture nor criticize anyone that is unfamiliar with their pool cue’s specs. As long as you like
what you’re using, congrats. Herein lies the rub. You likely do not know, or discovered yet, what would suit you better.

I can yank any cue from my case during a match or playing in a tournament eyes closed if a shaft didn’t feel right.
All of my cues shafts are smooth as satin and I’ve posted about why. Lots of readers took my advice and enjoyed it.

The best thing that has happened to maple shafts is Kielwood and I added KW shafts to my cue collection. Most will
ignore what I writing but with KW, don’t get a KW shaft that’s much lighter than any shaft you’re currently playing with.

Since my orig. maple shafts are approx. 4 ozs. & flat faced wood, it won’t be easy to do that unless the KW shaft was
cored, 30” vs. 29” or had weight added using inserts. My shafts don’t and the weight consists of wood, tip and ferrule.

Be that as it may, the question of how many cues basically comes down to how many do you desire or can afford.
The financial challenge becomes do you have a cue built or shop until you see what you like and cues are expensive.

Yet, all of us probably know, or seen, pool players that can walk in a room, randomly pick a house cue & drill your ass.
A pool cue, regardless of whom made it or how much it costs, cannot compensate for anyone w/ lousy fundamentals.
 
Bavafongoul said:
I understand your sentiments and until I found out and learned there was a set of cue specs that was my sweet spot.
In the early 2000’s, I switched from playing a heavier piloted steel joint pool cue to a lighter weight, different joint cue.

I played so much better and enjoyed playing pool more than I retired my Runde Schon and gradually added other cues.
However, I made sure every custom cue I ordered made used the same specs so that all the cues were closely alike.

IMO, this simplifies and ensures that I can remove any cue in my 6x12 case and switch cues with very little discernible
difference in the hit, tactile feel & balance of the cues. I was very careful about whom I hired to build my custom cues.

I’ve previously posted why I have so many cues when 3-4 seems like a pretty ideal number when actually all you need
is a cue. Just a single cue is all you really need and you can use a house cue for breaking. Here is what I have learned.

3/4 of the pool players I know or meet know very little about their pool cues other the cue tip or the cue maker. I think
that is just absurd how many readers really understand pool cue anatomy or what comprises a cue’s weight & feel.

I am not here to educate, lecture nor criticize anyone that is unfamiliar with their pool cue’s specs. As long as you like
what you’re using, congrats. Herein lies the rub. You likely do not know, or discovered yet, what would suit you better.

I can yank any cue from my case during a match or playing in a tournament eyes closed if a shaft didn’t feel right.
All of my cues shafts are smooth as satin and I’ve posted about why. Lots of readers took my advice and enjoyed it.

The best thing that has happened to maple shafts is Kielwood and I added KW shafts to my cue collection. Most will
ignore what I writing but with KW, don’t get a KW shaft that’s much lighter than any shaft you’re currently playing with.

Since my orig. maple shafts are approx. 4 ozs. & flat faced wood, it won’t be easy to do that unless the KW shaft was
cored, 30” vs. 29” or had weight added using inserts. My shafts don’t and the weight consists of wood, tip and ferrule.

Be that as it may, the question of how many cues basically comes down to how many do you desire or can afford.
The financial challenge becomes do you have a cue built or shop until you see what you like and cues are expensive.

Yet, all of us probably know, or seen, pool players that can walk in a room, randomly pick a house cue & drill your ass.
A pool cue, regardless of whom made it or how much it costs, cannot compensate for anyone w/ lousy fundamentals.
Click to expand...
I remember the reason I bought my first cue was because of aesthetics and have a fancy looking cue that looked different than your average one piece bar cue. It was a 2 piece cheapo cue with some lame overlay decals since I couldnt afford the more fancier and authentic ones. I think I bought mine for $50. I'm quite jealous with people now since they can get a really good looking decent pool cue for $50 nowadays.
 
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