I am going to install a new cloth on my table soon. I feel the table always played long since I first replaced the cushions a five years ago. I have a gold crown with super speed cushions. Is there any way to adjust the rails while I am replacing the cloth to get the table to rebound truer/shorter than it does now? I am not looking to replace cushions if I don't have to but will if that is the solution. Any ideas are appreciated, thanks.
How to fix a table that plays long
- Thread starter Kracken
- Start date
Kracken...Why don't you just learn how to adjust your aim and your stroke? That's 100x easier and more permanent than trying to "fix" the rails.
Scott Lee
2019 PBIA Instructor of the Year
Director, SPF National Pool School Tour
Scott Lee
2019 PBIA Instructor of the Year
Director, SPF National Pool School Tour
I've never heard of super speeds that played long. Sounds like you either need to bank a tad firm or stretch the cloth tighter on rails and bed.
Its not a GCI or GCII is it??
Does "long" mean longer than equal-angle? That's true for any table with a rolling ball.
pj
chgo
I believe I read on here before that also the early model GC3 tables have rail profiles that do not match the modern super speed cushions.
<== not a table mechanic.
I thought it was the 1s that had the different profile?
Wonder if there's a problem with the rail torque? I also never heard of stock GC playing too long, unless it was brand new cloth. Wheeeeeeee!
Contact one of the rail experts listed below.
Mark Gregory
www.perfectpocketz.com
markgregory711@gmail.com
770 548-4292
Jack Zimmerman
www.billiardmechanzix.net
jackzimmerman72@gmail.com
812 756-2899
Mark Gregory
www.perfectpocketz.com
markgregory711@gmail.com
770 548-4292
Jack Zimmerman
www.billiardmechanzix.net
jackzimmerman72@gmail.com
812 756-2899
If you shoot from a corner pocket, where on the long rail do you have to aim (which diamond) to get the cue ball to go three rails to the other corner pocket? (You need to use the standard spin of roughly equal amounts of running side and follow for the measurement to mean anything.)
When the cue ball scratches after three cushions, where does it contact the third cushion?
You apparently figured out exactly where I am going with my question.
So many early GC's have Superspeeds instead of MONARCH Superspeeds probably because so many people say that 1/8" discrepancy doesnt make that much difference but the bigger problem is that your table will not be twice as long as it wide with the wrong cushion.
Tough to help if the OP doesnt answer questions though.
You’re going to have to tell us which GC model it is.
A re-rubbered GCI will have those problems with Superspeed.
...a lot of the GCIIIs started with that problem..Brunswick put their name on cheap rubber.
A friend bought 10 new GCIIIs for his room...within two years...he needed new rubber.
You apparently figured out exactly where I am going with my question.
So many early GC's have Superspeeds instead of MONARCH Superspeeds probably because so many people say that 1/8" discrepancy doesnt make that much difference but the bigger problem is that your table will not be twice as long as it wide with the wrong cushion.
Tough to help if the OP doesnt answer questions though.
and on top of the play field dimensional issue, there could also be a nose cushion height issue due to the different profiles of the old Monarch Superspeed vs. the new Superspeed cushions. I've been down this road and you can't go wrong with either Mark Gregory, or Jack Zimmerman, they specialize in this scenario.
To the OP, the reason some of us are asking which model GC you have, is the GC1, GC2, and early GC3 tables used a rubber cushion that was a slightly different shape than the current cushion available. Later GC3, GC4, GC5, and GC6 all use the same modern shape. They were all called "superspeed" but were made to different sizes between the two groups. So if you have one of the older ones, and you put the modern cushions on the table, it won't play exactly right. The measurement from cushion nose to cushion nose will also not be exactly 50" x 100".
If this is your scenario, the "best" way to fix the problem is to cut the wood on the rails with a special saw set up to make the old wood rails accept the new rubber cushions properly. The two mechanics referenced above are both excellent at this exact task. Its not cheap though, especially if you have to ship the rails to someone to do the work for you. There may be other options, those two mechanics will know all of them.
<=== Not a mechanic
If this is your scenario, the "best" way to fix the problem is to cut the wood on the rails with a special saw set up to make the old wood rails accept the new rubber cushions properly. The two mechanics referenced above are both excellent at this exact task. Its not cheap though, especially if you have to ship the rails to someone to do the work for you. There may be other options, those two mechanics will know all of them.
<=== Not a mechanic
And another factor....
I used to play in a room that had high-nylon cloth. Slippery. Long. Even after months of play. Surprisingly, it was also slow.
I wonder what kind of cloth the OP has.
I used to play in a room that had high-nylon cloth. Slippery. Long. Even after months of play. Surprisingly, it was also slow.
I wonder what kind of cloth the OP has.
can you measure the nose height of the rails?
It sounds like your rails are too high off the bed.
Pull the rail cloth very tight but without distorting the nose. Trim close. bolt firmly.
Start with nose height.
It is GC4 I believe.
I have to aim at at 2.5 diamond position to get to 3 rail corner.
Simon is 860hr