how to get shafts white again??

thanks for ur reply chop doc, and i understand that wood does change with age, ur right i about the lathe and fine sanding i either use crocus cloth or 800 grit after i remove a dent, whole other discussion there.

HUD
 
itsfroze said:
Take a paper towel and fold it over a couple of times
Get a container of powdered Comet like used in bathroom
pour pile in center of folded towel add enough water to make a dry paste
rub up and down to coat shaft and stand in corner
dries in less than 5 min. becomes powdery white when dry
bleaches out all pores in wood shaft is white
does not hurt shaft because dry paste works well GOOD LUCK
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never heard of this one but might give it a try. thanks for ur input ITS FROZE

HUD
 
Shaky1 said:
Bleach. Not kidding! Wipe it down with a wet rag, Then wipe it with a rag soaked in bleach. This will raise the grain that you will need to knock down with something! Fine sandpaper or a burnisher of some sort. It will work!:wink:
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u mean like clorox?? never heard of this one either shaky1 butthanks for ur input.

HUD
 
lorider said:
i use a mr clean dampened with water on my predator.

the 1st time i used it the grain raised. i used a scotch pad very lightly to smooth it.

my routine is mr clean followed by wiping with a micro fiber then buffing with a mr porper leather.

i have used this method every 2 months for the last 2 years with no problems.

the grain raised the 1st time but has never reoccured since then.
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Is Mr Clean the same as a Magic Eraser? All our products here in the UK are called something else, so keeping track of them is a little difficult. Plus, I'm not big on cleaning generally. :o

I have found something which sounds like ME - it's a sponge impregnated with bleach, as far as I can tell - but I'm a bit reluctant to try it on a Pred in case it harms the glue lines. It does work very well on house cues, however.
 
My guess is anything that will make a dirty shaft white is most likely a very harsh chemical. One chemical that comes to mind is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). I am fairly sure this would turn your shaft white, but it would most likely also strip every single drop of natural oil out of the wood as well.
 
TheThaiger said:
Is Mr Clean the same as a Magic Eraser? All our products here in the UK are called something else, so keeping track of them is a little difficult. Plus, I'm not big on cleaning generally. :o

I have found something which sounds like ME - it's a sponge impregnated with bleach, as far as I can tell - but I'm a bit reluctant to try it on a Pred in case it harms the glue lines. It does work very well on house cues, however.
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Yep same product. Magic Eraser is made by Mr Clean
 
DON'T use bleach,fast orange hand cleaner with pumice and a paper towel with the grain changing out the towel as it gets dirty,use a magic eraser on the final scrub if tou want ,but not realy needed,let dry a while, the grain will be raised a bit,knock it down with 400 then 600 and 1000 sand papers pinning the shaft, then burnish the shaft with a piece of leather or a piece of brown paper bag also works well.
Wayde
 
Ammonia and microfiber.

Ammonia get's a lot more dirt out than alcohol, and microfiber isn't abrasive like a magic eraser.
 
why bother

why even bother? just wipe down periodically with a damp cloth, dry, and burnish. imho whitening a shaft with any chemicals will just dry out the shaftwood of it's natural oils and ruin it.
 
chalk is cheap said:
I know different cleaning methods have been discussed before, and i use 91% alcohol and magic erasers and reburnish with leather, this does a pretty good job but i'm still looking for something that will make my shafts and ferrules look like new again.

any ideas will be appreciated. HUD:confused:
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i'd like to thank all the a-z'rs who answered this post. i got quite a lot of things to try and some opinions to think about. thank-you one and all.

HUD
 
maximillion said:
Personally I wouldn't try to whiten the shafts unless you were selling them like new, and that would be somewhat dishonest. The darkening on a shaft is like the age of fine wine. You wouldn't try to make 12 yr old scotch taste like new again.
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I agree. Here, the locals take pride in a dark cue shaft. It seems to signify that you probably know your way around a table pretty well??? That's my guess. An "old timer" pulls a well worn cue out of his case, and there is a collective "ooohhhhh" around the room.

I have a cue making friend in Angeles City that sell's cue's for a living. quality stuff he normally makes. Bong...JOBO cues.

He doesn't even normally play with a cue he made, unless he's trying to sell something. It's some old beat-up thing a friend gave to him years ago. It looks like it was rolled in mud, and he seems to be proud of it.

I had him make me a cue about 5 years ago and asked him about it. "It's still straight, I'm really comfortable with it, why change". Or words to that effect. I've lived here long enough to know the "deal"... it mean's something bravado wise.
 
Maybe it's just me? I aint putting any of that shit on my shafts or any place on my cue? my main cue is 47 yrs old....had butt re-finished....all I use on shafts is windex and a paper towel? scotch brite? sandpaper? what?????
 
bleech

Shaky1 said:
Bleach. Not kidding! Wipe it down with a wet rag, Then wipe it with a rag soaked in bleach. This will raise the grain that you will need to knock down with something! Fine sandpaper or a burnisher of some sort. It will work!:wink:
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NO


Bleech on some maple shafts will turn them green......................................
comet with bleech will do the same thing.

Look up fumming wood, put your maple or oak in a air tieght ares and fill a pan full of bleech. It fumes the wood GREEN.
alcohol works good you are leaving the wood grain open so chalk can really fill up the pores in the wood.
Even if you get the shaft snow white it still needs to be sealed with bug shit ( Shelac ). Then waxed with carnuba.

In my opinion the trick is to keep the shaft from drying out Shelac seems to feed the wood and protect it.
but the oils in our hands will desolve shelac. I mix 50/50 shelac and alcohol and apply 5 or 6 coats then the same with canuba wax . if you keep the shaft well waxed the chalk will not get embedded into the pores of the wood grain.


MMike
 
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Reading some of these "solutions" scares me. I'm with the minority, you can have a "dirty" shaft that is still smooth as silk. When I take them to my cue guy to have a tip or any other work, he knows to NOT clean the shaft. I don't care if it shows that I am seasoned or whatever, all I care about is how it feels. I wish I had a dollar for every guy that shows up at the cue shop and says "put a tip on it and don't touch the shaft".
 
Mothers Chrome Polish

This is what Paul Fanelli used for years, works great. Perfect every time
 
FortWorthSteve said:
I use white vinegar ,, then dry it...makes it white as snow !
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I agree. White vinegar is fine to use.

I play mostly laminated LD shafts, I want them to be just like when they were day #1.


I use white vinegar and warm water, about 4 to 1.
The vinegar has a natural acid that is non-abrasive. After letting it soak for 15 mins, I wipe the shaft down a few times with lambswool. Takes all the gunk off and still stays smooth as silk.
I'll wipe it down with a little denatured alcohol,to get any of the vinegar left off the shaft. Finally, wipe it down with a warm damp cloth and i'm done.
 
I use a tiny bit of windex and a towell. I spin it on a drill motor. Then I coat it with paste wax, let it dry and buff it out.

It works great.

Still is blue but I kind of like it blue..
 
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