How To Improve Speed Control?

If you objective in life is to be good or successful at anything, work, practice, and study are the investment you must make to achieve the end results. Looking for a quick cure, fix, or success can only be found with a winning lotto ticket.

When I look around and see successful people or people who doing something well they have followed the formula above to reach were they are.

IMHO.
 
I've been working with a buddy of mine that started playing league a while back. First time he had played the game where he cared about the outcome. He started out not being able to make 3 balls in a row. I've worked on getting him to pocket balls and now he's a half decent ball pocketer. Only thing that's letting him down is position, mainly he leaves him self a tougher shot mostly because he hits the ball 100mph every time.

Speed control is something that never got taught to me in my younger days. Playing snooker it was taught that you can either judge speed or you can't...same with pocketing balls; you can either naturally see the shot line or you can't which if you can't, no one was willing to help you.

Now, my buddy can't judge speed control but I'm not giving up. I'm sure he can be taught it.

I've been keeping it simple. Just getting him to pocket a ball and get back to centre table off 1 or 2 rails. Some days are better than others but mostly he runs right through centre table by 3ft some times. Never underhits a shot.

Any advice? I'm a little bit stuck as to how to help him.


Stroking a pool ball is like putting -- it requires a controlled, measured stroke. If your guy is having trouble with speed control it's possible that he is getting up and "driving" the ball. He needs to learn the difference.

Lou Figueroa
 
I just helped a buddy with this the other night. Until he learns the feel of hitting it softer, have him shorten his bridge distance to the cue ball. You can't fire the ball in if you only have a couple inches of back stroke.
 
Not many. We play for about 5 hours once a week and then he probably only plays on his league night. So maybe a few hours there too.

If he can, it might be better for learning to play one hour five days a week. That way, you tend to forget less.
 
If he can, it might be better for learning to play one hour five days a week. That way, you tend to forget less.
I doubt he could. With work, 3 kids and a 55 hour a week job, I'm suprised he wants to play pool for 5 hours straight with me.

Would be nice if he could though. 5 hours spread over 3-5 days is better than 5 hours solid IMO.
 
Check out the Cue Ball Control Cheat Sheets put out by Allan P Sand. There are a ton of good drills and info on CB control.
 
Hi Pidge,

Can your friend recognize the need for speed control? When I first started, I didn't recognize such situations, and hit every shot harder than needed. If he's not aware, then the physical drills won't help.
 
I did. Still not getting it.[/QUOT

I didn't want to but I got sucked into the vortex.
The importance of position in billiards is inarguable.
If you don't understand that, don't give anyone your worthless advise.
Please and thank you.
 
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I did. Still not getting it.[/QUOT

I didn't want to but I got sucked into the vortex.
The importance of position in billiards is inarguable.
If you don't understand that, don't give anyone your worthless advise.
Please and thank you.

Worthless? I gave my opinion about how the guy should learn, not that he needs to play like me. As a matter of fact, I could be playing with my feet and still give proper advice about position play to others.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.
We managed a few hours practice today so it was great to finally put all your idea to him.

I started at the grip. Even though I'd told him to grip it loosely numerous times he had a nice old death grip going on. How he managed to stroke straight I'll never know. So we loosened it.
Next I moved to the tempo of his strokes. Even when only having to nudge the CB an inch or so for a safety, his feathering upto the CB looked like my feathering when I break. We slowed it right down and I told him to just pull the cue back as far as he needed. It doesn't need to come all the way back to your bridge everytime.
Next was the pause; at the front of the back stroke and at the back of the back stroke. His timing was off and he stabbed at a few balls first, but he got the timing down after 5 mins.

Next we moved onto some practice drills. We started hitting the white from headstring to the bottom rail and called that "speed 1". Then I got him to do the same but hammer the crap out of it and see how many times it went up and back down the table. That was "speed 10". Then we divided up speeds 2-9 based on how far it would go down table and back. Hit some basic position drills to get back to table but this time I told him this shot is speed 4, and so on. After a while he was calling out what speeds he needed to hit to get where he wanted.

Now, his speed is still a little off but after a few hours of practice you could actually see the improvements. Looked like a different player. He was landing the CB within 6 inches of the designated spot probably 50% of the time I'd say. Compare that with 5-10% before.

So cheers for helping him out guys, and if you have anymore ideas keep them coming. Oh yeah, and if he ever beats me, its all of your faults!
 
I just got some speed control drills in a recent lesson. I'm looking to do about 3,000 balls worth but
even just a few rows will be helpful. The setup is easy.

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line up all 15 balls in a row between the side pockets, across the center of the table.
You can pick up the cue ball and put it anywhere behind the line, on each shot. Shoot into either corner.
Shoot the following:

1. Shoot a row of 15 and try to get perfect stop shots. No forward spin, backspin, no side-to-side rotation.
Don't settle for 'close enough'. Just do one row before advancing, or you can even just do it until you nail 1 perfect stop.

2. Simple follow drill. Exact same setup, but instead of stopping, roll forward past the side pocket.
You have 'goalposts' you must fall between. The first goalpost is between the side pocket, and the diamond after.
Right on the line is ok. Once you hit that distance, The next goalpost is between 1 and 2 diamonds after.
If you hit it, move on to land between 2 and 3. Then between 3 and the end rail (but don't touch the end rail).

After this it gets a little more challenging. After the 4 shots described above, you now set up with a hair of angle,
and hit with top and get the cue ball to hit the end rail, then bounce up a little...
first get it to land between the rail, and 1 diamond from the corner. Then between 1 and 2 diamonds from the corner.
Finally get it to bounce between 2 and 3 diamonds away.

So you have 7 targets to hit total, and 15 balls to do it. Should be no problem right?
If you're hitting 'em excellent maybe you can hit all 7 positions twice.

3. Draw drill. Exact same setup. Same idea... draw between side pocket and 1 diamond back,
then between 1st and 2nd diamond, 2nd and 3rd, and so on. Then draw to bounce off the end rail and rebound..
exactly like the follow drill.

4. Stun follow - this is tough. Do a row of 15 balls with stun follow, replacing the object ball with the cue ball.
Not much room for error, the CB must land somewhere in the 'ring' where the object ball used to sit.
You can move on if you hit 3 perfectly.

5. Extra stun follow - this time the goal is not to roll forward just one ball width, but 2 ball widths.
So the cue ball stops right 'behind' where the object ball used to be. Don't settle, it can't stop
more than a ball width's distance from where the object ball used to be. Move on if you hit 3 perfectly.

6. Stun draw - just like stun follow but go backwards 1 ball width.

7. Extra stun draw - go backwards 2 ball widths.

One thing the instructor stressed is, you must find a method for speed control that gives you the most reliable,
controlled results. For example on the last drill listed, I was trying to do it with very low, soft draw.
That's ok if that's what works best for you. But I found true stun draw (like a half tip below center, struck like
a firm stop shot) got me the most reliable results.
 
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