Here is a step by step set of instructions on how to retip your own cues. It requires a minimal investment in tools, that pays for itself in the first 10-12 tips you replace. This took years to learn and perfect. I tried lots of different glues, clamps, gizmos etc etc etc..... But it all comes down to what I'm about to show you. Its the easiest, most cost effective way I know how to retip cues. Here is a retipping job I just did on a Judd sneaky pete.
First things first...... the tools
A Porper Big Shaver (you can use a mushroom grazer.... but these work so much better), a rapid cue top sander (for getting the top of the ferrule flat), superglue gel (I prefer Loctite brand), metal trimmer for roughing the top of the tip only, a couple of post it notes for protecting your cue shaft from the rapid cuetop sanders clamp, the new tip, a razor knife, and assorted autobody sandpapers (600 grit to 2000)
This was a cue I just bought, the tip it came with was loose and not looking all that great. So take the razor knife and cut it off. Leave between 1/32" and 1/16" of the old tip for safety reasons.
Next, trim and scrape some more of the old tip off until you can see some of the ferrule.
Use the post-it notes to wrap the shaft as shown. Use a couple or 3. It protects from the sanders clamp.
Clamped.
Use the top sander as per instructions..... I like to use the outer hole first, then the inner for a "cleanup pass". Be careful here, the sander works quickly, stop after all the old tip and glue are gone. No need to go deeper.
Sometimes with softer ferrule materials, you will have "hairs" of plastic hanging off the edge. Very lightly knock them off with 600 grit and almost no pressure.
Next its time to prep the tip, I use the sander for this also. Its metal plate with the sandpaper makes for a nice flat surface to sand the back of the tip. Like the ferrule....... no need to go crazy here. I stop right after all the "sealer" is gone. You are making sure the tip is flat and ready for glue only. Also before I forget about it, do not touch the newly prepped tip or ferrule.
Now its time to glue. I start lightly on the tip. Let the glue soak in, rub it around with the applicator on the glue bottle. Then put a little bit more on. its like laying tile, you don't want or need complete coverage. Use the bottles applicator like a notched trowel and spread and "notch" the glue. Same thing on the ferrule. If you don't use enough the tip will not adhere. If you use too much, it will ooze out and make a mess. If you use just the right amount..... it will barely form a bead between the tip and ferrule when you put the tip on and seat it.
Center the tip by eye (always use a tip bigger than the diameter of your ferrule) And lightly apply pressure with your finger tip for one to two minutes.
to be continued......
First things first...... the tools
A Porper Big Shaver (you can use a mushroom grazer.... but these work so much better), a rapid cue top sander (for getting the top of the ferrule flat), superglue gel (I prefer Loctite brand), metal trimmer for roughing the top of the tip only, a couple of post it notes for protecting your cue shaft from the rapid cuetop sanders clamp, the new tip, a razor knife, and assorted autobody sandpapers (600 grit to 2000)
This was a cue I just bought, the tip it came with was loose and not looking all that great. So take the razor knife and cut it off. Leave between 1/32" and 1/16" of the old tip for safety reasons.
Next, trim and scrape some more of the old tip off until you can see some of the ferrule.
Use the post-it notes to wrap the shaft as shown. Use a couple or 3. It protects from the sanders clamp.
Clamped.
Use the top sander as per instructions..... I like to use the outer hole first, then the inner for a "cleanup pass". Be careful here, the sander works quickly, stop after all the old tip and glue are gone. No need to go deeper.
Sometimes with softer ferrule materials, you will have "hairs" of plastic hanging off the edge. Very lightly knock them off with 600 grit and almost no pressure.
Next its time to prep the tip, I use the sander for this also. Its metal plate with the sandpaper makes for a nice flat surface to sand the back of the tip. Like the ferrule....... no need to go crazy here. I stop right after all the "sealer" is gone. You are making sure the tip is flat and ready for glue only. Also before I forget about it, do not touch the newly prepped tip or ferrule.
Now its time to glue. I start lightly on the tip. Let the glue soak in, rub it around with the applicator on the glue bottle. Then put a little bit more on. its like laying tile, you don't want or need complete coverage. Use the bottles applicator like a notched trowel and spread and "notch" the glue. Same thing on the ferrule. If you don't use enough the tip will not adhere. If you use too much, it will ooze out and make a mess. If you use just the right amount..... it will barely form a bead between the tip and ferrule when you put the tip on and seat it.
Center the tip by eye (always use a tip bigger than the diameter of your ferrule) And lightly apply pressure with your finger tip for one to two minutes.
to be continued......
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, but I do all my house cues. One thing I do differently is that instead of Post-It notes, I wrap the ferrule with blue masking tape (the kind painters use), even all the way down the entire shaft so there is no chance of Super Glue getting on my shaft. It don't cost much and I'd rather be safe than sorry.