How would you play this? Tough leave on the 6

klockdoc

ughhhhhhhhhh
Silver Member
These types of diagrams have always been a good learning tool and I believe educational for all. Jude Rosenstock usually comes up with some good ones and he has me now looking for opportunities to diagram one whenever I am playing pool.

This happened to me in a tournament match at a local tavern yesterday. My opponenet Sh, ooops, got lucky after he missed and left me this shot on the 6 ball. What would you do to get out of this situation....:confused:

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The 4 rail safe is almost automatic for this shot. Depending on how close the 6 is to the pocket, you might like the 2 rail kick into the side (I've practiced that one a lot though). Or you can bank the 6 two rails behind the 7. You can thin the 6 and come around 2 rails behind the 8/9. There are options for this shot.
 
coopdeville said:
back bank the six in the side w/ draw.

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do or die, but ya gotta try.

I think the induced throw on the 6, (you are pushing it away from the line of aim), makes the option very difficult if not impossible. JMO

I would suggest looking at some of Drews options.
 
same shot as a couple days ago

One pocket players, at least this one, get this shot all the time. Leaving a ball in front of your opponents side pocket often lets you use it as a blocker for some of the uptable balls. As long as the angle is wide, it can't be shot into the same side corner without scratching. However once the angle gets this narrow it is easy to use follow and beat the scratch. The slight danger here is that you might be too straight on the seven. That isn't really an issue with the wide open table though as you will be shooting the seven from close enough to simply draw back onto the eight if you don't have enough angle for the shape you want.

Keeping the game as simple as possible usually works best for me and it solves a lot of traffic problems in general play. The less you move the cue ball around the less traffic you deal with. I would much rather move the cue ball ten or fifteen inches for decent shape than twelve feet for perfect shape.

Hu
 
ShootingArts said:
One pocket players, at least this one, get this shot all the time. Leaving a ball in front of your opponents side pocket often lets you use it as a blocker for some of the uptable balls. As long as the angle is wide, it can't be shot into the same side corner without scratching. However once the angle gets this narrow it is easy to use follow and beat the scratch. The slight danger here is that you might be too straight on the seven. That isn't really an issue with the wide open table though as you will be shooting the seven from close enough to simply draw back onto the eight if you don't have enough angle for the shape you want.

Keeping the game as simple as possible usually works best for me and it solves a lot of traffic problems in general play. The less you move the cue ball around the less traffic you deal with. I would much rather move the cue ball ten or fifteen inches for decent shape than twelve feet for perfect shape.

Hu

I thought I positioned the 6 ball in the diagram at a point whereas it depicted the same scenario as I was confronted with ijn the tournament.

In the match, it was definately a scratch shot, no matter how shallow the angle. I agree, if I even think I can possibly make the ball without scratching, I am trying to cut the ball. However, that wasn't an option in this game.
 
work the shot

klockdoc said:
I thought I positioned the 6 ball in the diagram at a point whereas it depicted the same scenario as I was confronted with ijn the tournament.

In the match, it was definately a scratch shot, no matter how shallow the angle. I agree, if I even think I can possibly make the ball without scratching, I am trying to cut the ball. However, that wasn't an option in this game.


All I can really tell you is to work on the shot a lot in practice. If the six is that far off the rail, there is nowhere that you can put it by the side pocket that I can't beat the scratch with draw, follow, sometimes a little inside english added, and by cheating the pocket using the long rail I am running down and proper speed. This will work for anything from a bar table to a tight pocketed nine footer.

The diagram showing the cross bank will work also and is a comparatively easy shot to pocket the six ball with. I would find it difficult or impossible to have the cue ball follow the general path shown and stop that quickly though. Not saying the original poster can't, that would be my problem with that shot.

The shot that can be made neither in the corner or the side without scratching is very rare. For a shot where I can do neither one, the full table kick is usually an option. It is a good percentage shot if I can use a natural roll to shoot it. If everything is similar except the object ball is frozen on the rail just far enough past the side pocket point to not go in that pocket, I have to admit I am had. What I will try depends totally on the moment because whatever I do will be very low percentage and almost certain to give my opponent a chance to play a better safety or make the ball.

Hu
 
Hey Jude

Hey Jude, where are you?

Need your input/thoughts on this before I post a (my) remedy.

What do you think about what has already been stated? You have a very analytical thought process on these types of situations and your input is always appreciated.
 
How far from the tit is that?
If it is even .5 inch you can play it all the way down.
or what stops it from banking past the 7?
 
PROG8R said:
How far from the tit is that?
If it is even .5 inch you can play it all the way down.
or what stops it from banking past the 7?

Here is the tangent line diagram showing the result of cutting in the corner. You make the decision...:rolleyes:

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I really love how a lot of people on here post up a diagram like this which takes a good amount of thought should you be faced with this situation in a match or a strict practice routine then someone always says to go for the bank shot LOL.

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I thought of three different safes and this would probably be the first one I try.

Dont get me wrong. It's not an easy shot by any means, but it is easier then that bank shot.

Stop the cue ball and play the 6 around to hide it behind the 8 or 9. It's not a hard kick really, but it gets you another chance at the table with the possiblity of being faced with a better shot. Hard to control the saftey on the kick after you execute this leave since the opponent is jacked up above the pocket.
 
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Icon of Sin said:
I really love how a lot of people on here post up a diagram like this which takes a good amount of thought should you be faced with this situation in a match or a strict practice routine then someone always says to go for the bank shot LOL.

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I thought of three different safes and this would probably be the first one I try.

Dont get me wrong. It's not an easy shot by any means, but it is easier then that bank shot.

Stop the cue ball and play the 6 around to hide it behind the 8 or 9. It's not a hard kick really, but it gets you another chance at the table with the possiblity of being faced with a better shot. Hard to control the saftey on the kick after you execute this leave since the opponent is jacked up above the pocket.

I like this shot a lot, too. You also have an unusual amount of control since you can allow the cueball to drift down table a bit. You should be able to find the angle necesary to get it to hide.
 
Icon of Sin said:
I really love how a lot of people on here post up a diagram like this which takes a good amount of thought should you be faced with this situation in a match or a strict practice routine then someone always says to go for the bank shot LOL.

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I thought of three different safes and this would probably be the first one I try.

Dont get me wrong. It's not an easy shot by any means, but it is easier then that bank shot.

Stop the cue ball and play the 6 around to hide it behind the 8 or 9. It's not a hard kick really, but it gets you another chance at the table with the possiblity of being faced with a better shot. Hard to control the saftey on the kick after you execute this leave since the opponent is jacked up above the pocket.

Hiding behind the 8/9 here is tough. Seems like you could sell out the side pocket/side bank or hit it a bit too hard and sell out a look at the top corner on the right hand side of the diagram. You could also go two rails and make it in the side :D That would be a nice jelly roll.

If I shot it this way, I like following the cueball down to the end rail and trying to get the 6 on the opposite endrail.
 
I saw this particular shot come up in a professional match in the early 90's. I can't remember who it was, but I tucked it away in my memory banks and used it in a tourney of my own one time. I pushed out to this type of position and my opponent passed. I ended up "getting lucky" to hook him. It not only resulted in a hook, but it demoralized my opponent...win/win.

The key to the shot is the 7. I you have a ball(s) near the corner, go rail first (thinly) off the 6.

If you hit it well & don't hook your opponent (because this isn't the easiest shot to gauge the speed of), you will leave a brutally tough cut shot or double-kiss bank. See page 2.

If you hit it poorly (thickly) & don't hook your opponent, you might sell out a bank in the side. See page 3. The moral is to never hit it thickly...whether you hook him or not.

Set this up the next time you are in the pool hall. You'll be amazed at how well you can execute it.

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uwate said:
If I shot it this way, I like following the cueball down to the end rail and trying to get the 6 on the opposite endrail.

Ohhh thats good thinking. Distance is always a good thing with a safe. If the ball happens to rull out some and your opponent can see some or all of it, him being in the bottom rail and the 6 at the other end of the table is gonna make the safe in return or any other shot even harder.

Good brainstorming!
 
uwate said:
Hiding behind the 8/9 here is tough. Seems like you could sell out the side pocket/side bank or hit it a bit too hard and sell out a look at the top corner on the right hand side of the diagram. You could also go two rails and make it in the side :D That would be a nice jelly roll.

If I shot it this way, I like following the cueball down to the end rail and trying to get the 6 on the opposite endrail.

Icon of Sin said:
Ohhh thats good thinking. Distance is always a good thing with a safe. If the ball happens to rull out some and your opponent can see some or all of it, him being in the bottom rail and the 6 at the other end of the table is gonna make the safe in return or any other shot even harder.

Good play Uwate. That is the same thing I thought when playing this shot. I used high right english to carry the cue to the head rail and also to shorten up the bank so the object wouldn't have a chance to hit the point on the opposite side pocket.

Came up the best of both world's. Hooked and Long...:D

That is why I like these threads. It gives many opinons on different approaches to a shot. Hopefully you can recall these when faced with the same situation. Thanks to all for contributing.


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mosconiac said:
I saw this particular shot come up in a professional match in the early 90's. I can't remember who it was, but I tucked it away in my memory banks and used it in a tourney of my own one time. I pushed out to this type of position and my opponent passed. I ended up "getting lucky" to hook him. It not only resulted in a hook, but it demoralized my opponent...win/win.

The key to the shot is the 7. I you have a ball(s) near the corner, go rail first (thinly) off the 6.

If you hit it well & don't hook your opponent (because this isn't the easiest shot to gauge the speed of), you will leave a brutally tough cut shot or double-kiss bank. See page 2.

If you hit it poorly (thickly) & don't hook your opponent, you might sell out a bank in the side. See page 3. The moral is to never hit it thickly...whether you hook him or not.

Set this up the next time you are in the pool hall. You'll be amazed at how well you can execute it.

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You need the proper angle to have this shot available to you. I can't quite tell from a diagram if that is the case here. This is a shot you definitely want to know because there are plenty of times the rewards can be great but it's also a shot you definitely want to be selective with since any error in calculation can result in BIH.
 
Oh damn, I loved it when I see those. but I've lost my windowxp PC and now i'm using LINUX and can't see them. Any linux user can help me out? Some friends of mine said that it is impossible to run Shockweave player in linux, is it true? If so. thats horrible imo.
 
klockdoc said:
Good play Uwate. That is the same thing I thought when playing this shot. I used high right english to carry the cue to the head rail and also to shorten up the bank so the object wouldn't have a chance to hit the point on the opposite side pocket.

Came up the best of both world's. Hooked and Long...:D

That is why I like these threads. It gives many opinons on different approaches to a shot. Hopefully you can recall these when faced with the same situation. Thanks to all for contributing.


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This is really an extension of the other shot that sends the 6-ball around the table only with better cueball positioning. The fundamental problem with this is, you really should have more focus on the 6-ball than the cue-ball. The primary goal is to get the 6-ball in the safety-zone (as you illustrated). Getting the cueball down to the rail is secondary. If it's available to you, do it but don't risk letting the 6-ball leak in order to accomplish this.
 
asbani said:
Oh damn, I loved it when I see those. but I've lost my windowxp PC and now i'm using LINUX and can't see them. Any linux user can help me out? Some friends of mine said that it is impossible to run Shockweave player in linux, is it true? If so. thats horrible imo.

Wine + Shockwave + Windows version of Firefox
or
Codeweavers Crossover
I haven't tried either, though.
 
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