I’ll try to find it later tonight. At work on Cel right now.
I have trouble with drawing my ball when the distance between the cue
- Thread starter deanoc
- Start date
I’ll try to find it later tonight. At work on Cel right now.
A buddy got me with a funny thing at the expo. The cb was about 8in off the end rail, ob about 2ft from the far corner pocket, straight in. I drew the cb straight back and off 2 rails for shape. After the match a bystander asked how I can "draw a ball like that". My buddy, without missing a beat, says, "He used a pencil." The guy looked confused, and my buddy said..."He drew a pecker on it and sucked it back."
I know doesn't contribute to the thread, but damn if it wasn't funny at the time.
I know doesn't contribute to the thread, but damn if it wasn't funny at the time.
I think it's in one of these videos (?): https://billiards.colostate.edu/FAQ/draw/power/
Briefly (as sixpack said a slightly different way), the concept is that hitting below center on the CB is a tradeoff - the lower you go, the more spin you generate, but the less speed you get, allowing more time for the draw to wear off. For long power draw shots that tradeoff is best (enough speed to preserve the most draw over distance) at about 4/5 (?) of maximum draw.
pj
chgo
The result is counterintuitive. The important factor is that if you hit farther from center (lower, in this case), the cue ball is going slower coming off the tip. The amount of draw that you lose on the way to the object ball is directly proportional to the time, not the distance, to the object ball. You have to get down into the details of shot, such as how much the travel time is reduced by hitting closer to center and how much more draw you start with by hitting farther from center, and this includes how sticky the cloth is.
The result is that for long-distance draw you don't want to hit all the way down on the ball. Example shot: cue ball in hand behind the line, object ball six inches from the far corner pocket and near the side rail, draw the cue ball back to leave it on the head cushion.
Intersecting, thanks. There's definitely a trade off there between spin and speed so I understand the point you guys are making.
I just don't quite buy the concept. Especially not for a 5 ft shot. I bet the speed difference from 4/5 draw vs 5/5 of draw is negligible at realistic draw distances. Who knows though, I've been wrong before. It's something to think about at least...
Try it on sticky cloth.
Edit: One other thing to consider is that most pool players never hit far enough from center to see this effect. It is too close to the miscue limit and they are not willing to try there.
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Whenever I start doing it , it's because I am not following through far enough, through the cueball.
Start about a foot away and try to draw your cueball 3 or 4 rails then just move the object ball a foot at a time when you are doing it correctly.
Start about a foot away and try to draw your cueball 3 or 4 rails then just move the object ball a foot at a time when you are doing it correctly.
Two things I saw mentioned in here really help me in shots like this. Very loose grip and aim for the base of the object ball mentally to insure a serious follow through. I love long draw shots when I’m shooting well, they are some of the most satisfying.
Thanks for the assist Patrick and Bob - I was trying to revise that post when I got called back from lunch early so I set it free a little too early.
FeelDaShot - no amount of thinking or arguing will convince you. Just try it. I couldn’t believe how much of a difference it made in my long draw shots. As Bob noted though it’s more dramatic if you are used to using extreme offset draw.
FeelDaShot - no amount of thinking or arguing will convince you. Just try it. I couldn’t believe how much of a difference it made in my long draw shots. As Bob noted though it’s more dramatic if you are used to using extreme offset draw.
I don't understand this logic. This is not a crazy hard shot, and what if you get left there by your opponent? Just give up? You got a straight shot that needs draw so play safe? Sure if its not a strong point don't leave yourself there, but its going to happen - a lot! You want want an angle so you can get to a rail but what if you over stroke your last shot by 3 inches? If your position play is that amazing, I find it hard to believe you can't draw that shot. "don't put yourself there" is silly. That means your position is always perfect or you run out every rack there's no opportunity for your opponent to leave you like this.
If you're not mis cuing and jumping off the table, you're not hitting low enough, Seen this a thousand times. Have someone film the shot with a phone on slo-mo and you'll be shocked sat how high you're hitting the cue ball.
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What it means is
Im not a sharp shootin rotation player
I rarely need to do what the op wants
I know im not accurate enough to make a 5ft draw shot so im doing something different
I just don't think we're helping the basic question of the OP on mechanics and why he is having an issue by saying "just don't shoot it". I could se if someone posted "man I just can kick balls in one rail". ok - maybe don't spend 20 hours working on pocketing rail kick shots. I wasn't slighting your specific skill level - just trying to address the issue last hand.
thats fair, but the op is bout 74yrs old.........
the shot mechanics he wants to make this shot, woulda need to have been there by now i think
jmo
icbw
Agreed. Start with the CB a foot away and see how far you can draw it, move the CB further and see what happens. Eventually he will learn his limitations and know how far he can draw it.
I think this is probably the biggest reason that better players get more draw - they can aim closer to the miscue limit because they won't miss their target by as much as weaker players will.
Here's a pic that illustrates this - the dots near the bottom of the miscue circle are where two players of different skill levels will hit the ball in several tries to get maximum draw. The two players have learned through painful trial and error that the red dots in the center of their shot patterns are the lowest they can aim with an acceptably low risk of miscuing - their "personal miscue limit".
pj
chgo
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Was not aware of that - then I guess my advice is to film or use a ton of chalk to see how you can get. Good follow thru, no poking, as level as you can get and that's what your limit is. I think that goes for everyone. I just wouldn't stop till you find your limit. I can draw 9 feet from 8.5 feet (I won't comment on whether it comes straight back l
. ), but I know people who can do better and people who can do worse. I says let's get Deanoc to be the best he can, find the limits and go from there.
I heard Jimmy Mataya was the Master of the Power Draw???
I'm pretty sure he is not the current title holder.:wink:... I heard Jimmy Mataya was the Master of the Power Draw???
I have trouble with this too at times; along with some other issues. I figured out that I'm not really hitting the CB where I think I am. When I can get back to playing again (had total shoulder replacement surgery) I plan to video myself so I can see what's really going on. Perhaps that will help you too Deanoc.
