Agree on this and it's what's on my mind lately.
I learned how to draw!
- Thread starter Hector3cushion
- Start date
Agree on this and it's what's on my mind lately.
Not that is needed, but here's a sample of power draw I did today about 2 table lengths on a 10x5 3 Cushion table
http://youtu.be/i9u_HrK_spM
http://youtu.be/i9u_HrK_spM
Power draw IMO is dependant on a smooth stroke
With sufficient follow through !!
Follow through being the distance you allow the tip to travel beyond cue ball contact
I believe follow through is biggest variable, with smoothness of stroke being the necessary complement
Gratz on your draw !
With sufficient follow through !!
Follow through being the distance you allow the tip to travel beyond cue ball contact
I believe follow through is biggest variable, with smoothness of stroke being the necessary complement
Gratz on your draw !
Geo...
I'll trade you draw strokes. That 3c video draw shot, you hit pretty good, especially with that cb.
Of the learning items listed above-I am guessing you need least work on draw, force follow, speed control and positional control-based on your 3 cushion game.
Defense and pattern recognition help any level win games. Defense, clearly can get you a shot, when you had none. Pattern recognition combined with cueball and speed control can make runouts easier to manage.
Maybe a little more focus on aiming/pocketing balls with consistency...and you're there.
Keep up the good work.
ps: I envy you those 3c skills and cueball path knowledge.
pps: You're a C+?
(Move him up):wink:
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It is hard to adjust when you have learned to play a certain way. I played snooker exclusively as a kid and it took me a long time to get used to a closed bridge. I still feel more comfortable on a lot of shots with an open bridge.
Congratulations! If you want to continue to improve your draw shot results, see the advice, drills, and online instructional videos here:
They might help.
Enjoy,
Dave
I haven't seen it noted on this "Draw" thread so far, so FWIW I'll mention that I radically boosted the quality and CB impact point repeatability of my draw stroke when I recently experimented with degrees of tightening the "loop" formed by the confluence of my index finger, thumb, and forefinger when using my preferred closed bridge.
I do play with a glove however, which for me, enables a lot tighter bridge loop without it feeling overly restrictive to the shaft movement.
In any case I do like the resulting accuracy and confidence of this accidental bridging element discovery for my drawstroke.
I do envy players (especially the top Europeans for some reason) whose stroke is so smooth, relaxed and repeatable *every time* that their draw application (even on 14.1 break shots) is completely dependable with an open bridge, enabling thoroughly dependable results while fully stretching over the table -- which is virtually impossible to do with a closed bridge.
Arnaldo
I do play with a glove however, which for me, enables a lot tighter bridge loop without it feeling overly restrictive to the shaft movement.
In any case I do like the resulting accuracy and confidence of this accidental bridging element discovery for my drawstroke.
I do envy players (especially the top Europeans for some reason) whose stroke is so smooth, relaxed and repeatable *every time* that their draw application (even on 14.1 break shots) is completely dependable with an open bridge, enabling thoroughly dependable results while fully stretching over the table -- which is virtually impossible to do with a closed bridge.
Arnaldo
the Hand/Fingers/Cue/Tip relationship will always be VERY important.
That's keen "spidey sense". ....and indeed there's many times you HAVE to be able to make a length of the table draw. Many of which (like the two you mentioned) don't have anything to do with situations you can "control".
I remember when I was 7 - 9 years old and I could not draw my ball. I watched the older players, and even though I could beat them I was so impressed with how they made the cue ball spin back after contact. No one would show me how to do it, because, they said "it will hurt your game".
I'm not sure the real reason, but it proved to not be the last time I was lied to in a pool room. :wink: There was one guy that especially irritated me by brushing me off and not showing me the "secret draw method".
This was the guy that "drew" his cue ball especially well in my home pool room that was overly "confident" and refused to play me. One Saturday afternoon he accepted my challenge and we played 5 games of which I won 4 of them.
He stormed out of the pool room, and I stayed behind to practive, because in the course of playing him I had uncovered his "secret". I tried it and immediately drew my cue ball for the first time. What a thrill, and come to find out it didn't hurt my game. On the contrary it became my best shot.
I have helped players learn the power draw method many times over the years and I've broken it down into a very simple method.
1) Make sure your grip is solid and able to control the top part of your pool cue. You will use the top part of the tip to create the "draw" so you want to be confident in your hand/fingers that you control the top in particular. Also, MAKE SURE your bridge is firm and contolled as well. I firm bridge is essential to controlling distance and the only time a closed bridge is better than an open one. imho
2) Measure up below the center of the cue ball with the TOP of your cue and make sure you feel the contact point your seeing on the cue ball with your hand. Connect the top of your tip with that feeling in your hand.
3) Now, take your pool cue back a few inches and return it as quickly as possible To Where is Started. No matter what type of stroke you use the key component is the ability to take the cue back (on the backstroke) a few inches and return it to where it started (where you were measuring up to the cue ball).
The main objective in the game of pool is forming and unifying your hand/tip relationship. Your hand touches the pool cue, your tip touches the cue ball, and the cue ball touches the object ball, so if you want the "touch" to play the game well it's best to understand these basics.
No matter what level you reach the Hand/Fingers/Cue/Tip relationship will always be VERY important. When a beginner learns this right away it opens up the door to learn advanced techniques much quicker and easier. 'The Game is the Teacher'
That's keen "spidey sense".
....and indeed there's many times you HAVE to be able to make a length of the table draw. Many of which (like the two you mentioned) don't have anything to do with situations you can "control". I remember when I was 7 - 9 years old and I could not draw my ball. I watched the older players, and even though I could beat them I was so impressed with how they made the cue ball spin back after contact. No one would show me how to do it, because, they said "it will hurt your game".
I'm not sure the real reason, but it proved to not be the last time I was lied to in a pool room. :wink: There was one guy that especially irritated me by brushing me off and not showing me the "secret draw method".
This was the guy that "drew" his cue ball especially well in my home pool room that was overly "confident" and refused to play me. One Saturday afternoon he accepted my challenge and we played 5 games of which I won 4 of them.
He stormed out of the pool room, and I stayed behind to practive, because in the course of playing him I had uncovered his "secret". I tried it and immediately drew my cue ball for the first time. What a thrill, and come to find out it didn't hurt my game. On the contrary it became my best shot.
I have helped players learn the power draw method many times over the years and I've broken it down into a very simple method.
1) Make sure your grip is solid and able to control the top part of your pool cue. You will use the top part of the tip to create the "draw" so you want to be confident in your hand/fingers that you control the top in particular. Also, MAKE SURE your bridge is firm and contolled as well. I firm bridge is essential to controlling distance and the only time a closed bridge is better than an open one. imho
2) Measure up below the center of the cue ball with the TOP of your cue and make sure you feel the contact point your seeing on the cue ball with your hand. Connect the top of your tip with that feeling in your hand.
3) Now, take your pool cue back a few inches and return it as quickly as possible To Where is Started. No matter what type of stroke you use the key component is the ability to take the cue back (on the backstroke) a few inches and return it to where it started (where you were measuring up to the cue ball).
The main objective in the game of pool is forming and unifying your hand/tip relationship. Your hand touches the pool cue, your tip touches the cue ball, and the cue ball touches the object ball, so if you want the "touch" to play the game well it's best to understand these basics.
No matter what level you reach the Hand/Fingers/Cue/Tip relationship will always be VERY important. When a beginner learns this right away it opens up the door to learn advanced techniques much quicker and easier. 'The Game is the Teacher'
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Gee whiz, what a coincidence CJ. That seems like exactly what I conveyed in the post immediately previous to yours; about 4 hours before yours, in fact.
Must have subconsciously stimulated the inclusion or wording of your paragraph.
Arnaldo
I hold my bridge so tight it actually burns my fingers before I make a precison draw
Not really "psychic" (and there's probably not any coincidences), just reminded me of the hand connection with the bridge, which I left out.
Allison Fisher and I had this conversation after she won the US OPEN two years ago. We both think the open bridge is more accurate and it's prefered by most snooker players for accuracy.
The only exception is when you have to draw the ball for accuracy and precision. It's difficult to do this with the open bridge because the follow through must be more controlled. With the open bridge it tends to "pop up" off your finger when you draw the ball with power.
And yes, I agree with your post. I hold my bridge so tight when making my practice strokes ABOVE the ball it actually burns my fingers before I make a precison draw shot.
Not really "psychic" (and there's probably not any coincidences), just reminded me of the hand connection with the bridge, which I left out.
Allison Fisher and I had this conversation after she won the US OPEN two years ago. We both think the open bridge is more accurate and it's prefered by most snooker players for accuracy.
The only exception is when you have to draw the ball for accuracy and precision. It's difficult to do this with the open bridge because the follow through must be more controlled. With the open bridge it tends to "pop up" off your finger when you draw the ball with power.
And yes, I agree with your post. I hold my bridge so tight when making my practice strokes ABOVE the ball it actually burns my fingers before I make a precison draw shot.
I love it when draw shot works! one thing would help on shots that demands tip contact accuracy is to look at that exact tip contact at CB last, but if you are one that pulls cue backward too fast when releasing trigger you will not be able to focus on it. Other hint, when you pause have tip almost touches CB at tip contact point desired, this seem to help tip accuracy at impact.
this is clearly needed for me
Dr. Dave, I have watched those videos so many times. Thank you for all the resources you have shared on the website.
Interestingly, i tighten my bridge on certain 3 cushion shots where I need to hit a particular English.
CJ i seem to have heard that before, also.
I like both of those. thanks.