BHQ said:
Going to have a talk with him......................age and weather must be getting the best of him.........
i must be doing SOMETHING wrong
- Thread starter BHQ
- Start date
Going to have a talk with him......................age and weather must be getting the best of him.........
JoeyInCali said:
I sure hope not LOL, if so It would be news to Me. There is such a thing as colored fibre, Correct? looks like fibre to Me, and that's what they are supposed to be. They are simular to the redish color of fibre backers. They are not a true red, but more of a maroon I suppose. They could probably be used for clutches in a spinning reel or something like that. Seems like I remember some old reels that had clutches made from a simular material. I have them in black also, but not in the correct diameters to work in a cue.
Brent,
looks great.... When you going to make me a butterfly cue????
looks great.... When you going to make me a butterfly cue????
sharp cutters are important. With the new super micro carbide, a edge as keen as hss can now be achieved. But you have to have a water or oil lubed diamond grinding wheel. For the finishing edge, it must be a 400 git or finer. The wheel must be running to the edge , not running off the edge.As carbide is brittle, a 30 deg included cutting angle is the minimum. Anything less and there is not enough support and you have a micro chipped cutting edge. A razor sharp edge is defined as being an edge that is less than 30 millionth's inch thickness.
Which router bits are these? tnxconetip said:
Eric Wynne
Banned
Different materials have different characteristics , the feed rate at which you move your cutter , depth of cut , type of cutter and blade , rigidity of your setup , all play in the harmonics of your cut or let's say vibration ... I 've found that the closer you are to finished diameter the lighter the pass or cut ... Take less off at a time , a little more trouble but no distress having to feather out a ridge of a ring ... Fiber rings tend to expand and fold over trailing edge if you cut too deep or fast or both ... Patience is the most important component in cue building ...
repeat:
it was bleed in color from the fiber ring
previous post
i dug thru the garbage to find the scrap i mixed the epoxy on when i did that section.
there was just a touch of black stuff on the popsicle stick i used to apply the epoxy on the rings
i guess it was just some bleed from the fiber rings
it was bleed in color from the fiber ring
previous post
i dug thru the garbage to find the scrap i mixed the epoxy on when i did that section.
there was just a touch of black stuff on the popsicle stick i used to apply the epoxy on the rings
i guess it was just some bleed from the fiber rings
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After reading this thread, I went and checked a couple of cues that I'm building, that have black fibre rings, and there appears to have the same bleed. I used clear epoxy, but there are little black 'veins' coming off from the rings into the grain of the maple. It's not terribly noticeable until you look closely. Time to think of a better material for rings.BHQ said:
Dave
i normally sand fiber rings a little just to scuff 'em up, then wipe off the crud with thinnerDave38 said:
the more i think about it, i may have got sidetracked ( not hard to do when joe baker calls me
) and didnt wipe offhad to give you a little grief joe
inside joke there is, it seems like everytime he calls me, i'm in the middle of mixing up epoxy
one time i was holding phone with no hands, ya know, on my shoulder, and i dropped the SOB into the epoxy i was mixing
joe got a good laugh outta that one
kobelco
I use the 6mm dia on a 6 mm shank and has 6 flutes. They are not cheap, but are well worth the money.
I use the Mitsubishi, http://www.mitsubishicarbide.com/mmc/en/product/pdf/b/b005g_al_ti_si_n_20070423.pdfJoeyInCali said:
I use the 6mm dia on a 6 mm shank and has 6 flutes. They are not cheap, but are well worth the money.
Those are end-mill though.conetip said:
Best I could find for side-cutting router bits are 5-flute think Everlast bits.
BHQ said:( not hard to do when joe baker calls me
had to give you a little grief joe
inside joke there is, it seems like everytime he calls me, i'm in the middle of mixing up epoxy
one time i was holding phone with no hands, ya know, on my shoulder, and i dropped the SOB into the epoxy i was mixing
joe got a good laugh outta that one
thanks for busting my chops....
WheatCues
Banned
Problem Solved !
I understand your problem.... If you are cutting these rings with a stationary cutting tool instead of a router, then you are creating a friction burn that is reacting to the glue and ring, it is generating enough intense heat to fuse the vapors from the two elements and creating a bleed-over to the wood !
I strongly suggest refraining from using fixed cutters to trim your rings, even though it's much faster.... the results aren't always acceptable, especially with metal rings !
I know it's a pain in the ass and tedious to set up a router just to trim a few rings, but once you get comfortable with it... you will eliminate problems such as the one your having now....
Loc-tite super glue gel is pretty consistant with optimum results when attaching tips,ferrules and rings... I have not experienced any bleeding problems when using that glue and a fixed cutting tool, and I'm referring to ring installation on a repair job, not finishing up the joint with a few passes on a raw cue....and this is with the exception of metal rings becasue they just heat up and bend insted of a smooth cut during the pass....
I'm a professional cuesmith for 18 yrs now and also a cuemaker as well.. and I have experienced just about everything weird that can happen and have seen it all when it comes to broken cues and extensive repairs.... I love to share my knowledge from experience and enjoy assisting others in there plight..
I hope this helps..... If you have any questions please call anytime - East Coast Cue Repair 321-631-1827
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
BHQ said:
I understand your problem.... If you are cutting these rings with a stationary cutting tool instead of a router, then you are creating a friction burn that is reacting to the glue and ring, it is generating enough intense heat to fuse the vapors from the two elements and creating a bleed-over to the wood !
I strongly suggest refraining from using fixed cutters to trim your rings, even though it's much faster.... the results aren't always acceptable, especially with metal rings !
I know it's a pain in the ass and tedious to set up a router just to trim a few rings, but once you get comfortable with it... you will eliminate problems such as the one your having now....
Loc-tite super glue gel is pretty consistant with optimum results when attaching tips,ferrules and rings... I have not experienced any bleeding problems when using that glue and a fixed cutting tool, and I'm referring to ring installation on a repair job, not finishing up the joint with a few passes on a raw cue....and this is with the exception of metal rings becasue they just heat up and bend insted of a smooth cut during the pass....
I'm a professional cuesmith for 18 yrs now and also a cuemaker as well.. and I have experienced just about everything weird that can happen and have seen it all when it comes to broken cues and extensive repairs.... I love to share my knowledge from experience and enjoy assisting others in there plight..
I hope this helps..... If you have any questions please call anytime - East Coast Cue Repair 321-631-1827
Sincerely, Eddie Wheat
I though you used a chisel.BHQ said:
WheatCues said:
I would not recommend using any type of super glue for attaching ferrules or rings of any kind. First of all super glue does not give you the time you need to properly place the material and you cannot make any adjustments when necessary. Also, super glue does not stand up to impact very well so using it with ferrule installation leaves a lot to be desired.
I recommend the use of Epoxy in both cases but some other glues also work fine.
Good Cuemaking,