NE,NaturalEnglish said:Its my experience that LD shafts pivot around the joint. So best to use a combination of shift and pivot. About 50% of each. ie to get 1tip...50% shift, 50% bhe.
Colin...what do you use? You did a great job explaining BHE in the video you made. But I would like to know what you actually USE when you play.
There are great players who pocket balls and have no idea how they do it and there are scientists who can explain the physics of whats going on but cant play so well. I consider you to be one of the few who can shoot well AND explain well the art of shooting and the science behind what you do and say.
Happy New Year
I use 100% BHE and I make all adjustments systematically by 2 methods.
1. Adjustment of bridge length to counter sqwerve. (Squirt and Swerve).
2. Adjustment of aim to counter throw.
For 1, I used simple equation to determine the length of bridge. I multiply the distance between CB and OB in feet by a speed factor of 1 to 5. 5 is slow, 1 is slamming. This result. Lets say (4x3) = 12 is multiplied by a stickiness factor (usually around 0.3) and gives me a total of 3.6 inches. So I add 3.6 inches to my cue's pure pivot point which is 9.5 inches. So I bridge for the shot at approx 13 inches.
I also have an adjustment if the shot is being hit high or low. For high shots I increase the bridge up to 2 inches, for low, I shorten it by an inch.
For 2, I have charts of throw for all ranges of speed spin and cut angles that I developed in cooperation with Dr. Dave. Most the time I can guess the throw aim adjustment but I can use the charts to check certain shots and to know the adjustments more precisely. Once you get a feel for how speed, spin and cut angles affect throw, you can guess most shots pretty well.
I'm still refining it in parts and will be putting a DVD together to explain the system in its entirety, but I'm looking for a better filming venue for my table at the moment. Preferably a new apartment so I can bang and shoot at my convenience.
Colin