PM me when you start selling these. Will you do custom joint diameters too?If I put a $169 shaft on the market, would this actually be purchased? Or would pool players think the price is too cheap and avoid them? Purely as a marketing/economics exercise.
Nice layered tip, short ferrule or ferruleless, LD front end design. Variety of pin options or replaceable inserts.
Same CF blanks as one of the most widely-used in the world.
If you post anything about your opinions of CF or that you will never use one, congratulations, you have the reading comprehension of a toddler. Please save the electricity and go play outside
Can easily do itSchuler joint?
Can always put a slight taper on the joint to gain or take away a little to match the butt joint. Visually unnoticeableI’d buy one depending on the ferrule and joint size. Mostly the ferrule size. I’m assuming joint size would be around .840.
Within reasonPM me when you start selling these. Will you do custom joint diameters too?
Can always put a slight taper on the joint to gain or take away a little to match the butt joint. Visually unnoticeable
You said same blanks as other major sellers. How do you know that? I know Pred and Cuetec make their own but how do you know where others get their tubes? I don't think they're real open to telling where they get their tubes. Some tubes are still flag-wrapped and not near as good as properly filament wound.
Predator and Cuetec both use multi-layered wrapped unidirectional carbon fiber tow. Not filament wound.
My biggest challenge is that a lot of player believe CF is inherently low squirt (cue ball deflection). Are you going to do something that addresses squirt, or are you just going to build a CF shaft and let the cards fall where it may. I have CF shafts from various makers, and there is a wide range of squirt characteristics, just like in wooden shaft. Feels like a lot of cuemakers learned nothing over the past 20 years.Can easily do it
I Bought a CF shaft through Schon, Just a blank and I am going to put a ferrule and Joint on it to match my playing cue. I am still deciding what to fill it with and what type of ferrule material to use. I have not looked for info on this yet and I dont expect it to play like the high end shafts but it would be a fun project.My biggest challenge is that a lot of player believe CF is inherently low squirt (cue ball deflection). Are you going to do something that addresses squirt, or are you just going to build a CF shaft and let the cards fall where it may. I have CF shafts from various makers, and there is a wide range of squirt characteristics, just like in wooden shaft. Feels like a lot of cuemakers learned nothing over the past 20 years.
I remember when laminated wood first came out. I heard more than a couple cuemakers say that laminated meant less deflection. WTF? When i tried to tell them what radial consistency was they all looked at me like i had a third eye in my forehead. Its amazing to me just how little some builders actually know about shafts. So much old-school old pool tales/ideas still exist. As for cf all that i've tried have been less deflect. than maple to some degree . A few were a lot less like the Cynergy 11.8. Really low squirt.My biggest challenge is that a lot of player believe CF is inherently low squirt (cue ball deflection). Are you going to do something that addresses squirt, or are you just going to build a CF shaft and let the cards fall where it may. I have CF shafts from various makers, and there is a wide range of squirt characteristics, just like in wooden shaft. Feels like a lot of cuemakers learned nothing over the past 20 years.
I know a guy that has made a couple. One was filled all the way to bottom of ferrule with foam(don't know what kind) and another was filled to about 5" short of ferrule. He said the full fill played much like a regular shaft. The other due to less weight/mass played with a lot less squirt. Tomahawk was used for both ferules.I Bought a CF shaft through Schon, Just a blank and I am going to put a ferrule and Joint on it to match my playing cue. I am still deciding what to fill it with and what type of ferrule material to use. I have not looked for info on this yet and I dont expect it to play like the high end shafts but it would be a fun project.
I’m waiting on a CF shaft that the cuemaker says will have a full wooden tenon. I don’t know how far it will go. He also will use a ferrule instead of a “vault plate.” I just don’t see this going well.I know a guy that has made a couple. One was filled all the way to bottom of ferrule with foam(don't know what kind) and another was filled to about 5" short of ferrule. He said the full fill played much like a regular shaft. The other due to less weight/mass played with a lot less squirt. Tomahawk was used for both ferules.
I was thinking, after I glue the ferrule in place dampen the interior of the shaft and then use expanding foam. Then ream the joint end out to install the joint. I am afraid that the foam may be too dense and might make it play weird.I know a guy that has made a couple. One was filled all the way to bottom of ferrule with foam(don't know what kind) and another was filled to about 5" short of ferrule. He said the full fill played much like a regular shaft. The other due to less weight/mass played with a lot less squirt. Tomahawk was used for both ferules.
This is probably what I mean. Cuemakers still need to watch that front end mass.I remember when laminated wood first came out. I heard more than a couple cuemakers say that laminated meant less deflection. WTF? When i tried to tell them what radial consistency was they all looked at me like i had a third eye in my forehead. Its amazing to me just how little some builders actually know about shafts. So much old-school old pool tales/ideas still exist. As for cf all that i've tried have been less deflect. than maple to some degree . A few were a lot less like the Cynergy 11.8. Really low squirt.
Might try plugging end of shaft with something before filling to try to get some sort of hollow end below the ferrule. That's if you want some lo-defl to it. I think if you fill all the way its gonna be standard deflect. Kinda depends what you want.I was thinking, after I glue the ferrule in place dampen the interior of the shaft and then use expanding foam. Then ream the joint end out to install the joint. I am afraid that the foam may be too dense and might make it play weird.
I bought some loose foam beads(About half the size of a BB) and figure I could pour those in after the ferrule is on and pack or settle those by tapping it. This material is near weightless and I'm afraid that it might play weird.
I play weird so maybe all things would equal out.
What ever the case I will have more into it with materials and time then ideologist will be asking for his shafts. I bet they will play good and I hope he finds a market.
If my experiment does not pan out then I will certainly get on the list to buy one from Patrick.
Thanks for the tip!Might try plugging end of shaft with something before filling to try to get some sort of hollow end below the ferrule. That's if you want some lo-defl to it. I think if you fill all the way its gonna be standard deflect. Kinda depends what you want.