Is there really much you can do to change a balance point?

ddadams

Absolutely love this cue.
Silver Member
AFTER a cue has already been finished, is there really much a cuemaker can do to change the weight to move it forward?

I know that weight bolts can be added to move the weight rearward but I was curious if there are ways to move it forward?

I'm gonna guess I'm probably SOL on this one...
 
Add a steel joint. Remove the joint screw, drill a 1/2" hole 4-5" deep Fill it with an Ebony or PVC plug. Change the screw from 5/16 x 14(or 18) & replace it with a 3/8" x 10...JER
 
Another possibility is to get another, heavier shaft for it. Of course, the difficulty is finding one that feels/plays the same, but if you can, that will help move the weight forward too.
All of the above suggestions (including mine) will increase the overall weight of the cue, which may not be desirable. Does the cue have a weight bolt in it? If so, changing it out to a little lighter bolt as you add weight to the front of the cue will help keep it close to the same overall weight.
My 2 cents,
Gary
 
Another possibility is to get another, heavier shaft for it. Of course, the difficulty is finding one that feels/plays the same, but if you can, that will help move the weight forward too.
All of the above suggestions (including mine) will increase the overall weight of the cue, which may not be desirable. Does the cue have a weight bolt in it? If so, changing it out to a little lighter bolt as you add weight to the front of the cue will help keep it close to the same overall weight.
My 2 cents,
Gary

I was just thinking the same thing.

Remove the weight bolt and/or replace it with a light one, then find or have made a heavy shaft (4-4.2 oz or so). If the cue has a weight bolt and a lighter shaft to start with then these changes could significantly alter the balance point without need of real modifications.


.
 
Depending on the type of pin used, you can have a brass insert put into the cue shaft.
You can easily gain 1 oz in weight that way.
 
You can install a small weight bolt in the shaft beyond where the joint pin projection would reach. Being so far forward in the cue it would not take much to make a different in the balance point.
 
How about qualifying the Adams' "problem" first ?
What is the weight of the cue ?
What is the balance point ?
What are the weights of the shafts ?
How much do you want to go forward ?

For all we know, this is just a case of googanism .


~Back to gluing leather ~
 
How about qualifying the Adams' "problem" first ?
What is the weight of the cue ?
What is the balance point ?
What are the weights of the shafts ?
How much do you want to go forward ?

For all we know, this is just a case of googanism .


~Back to gluing leather ~

18.8-9 or so.
18.3" or so, was higher up before switching to an OB2 shaft
3.4oz
I'd like it to go forward to 19.5"-20"....

Adding weight to make the whole cue heavier really wouldn't make as much a difference to me. I'd welcome the added weight as long as the balance went forward..


It's a radial pin cue, also.
 
I was thinking similar, but I was considering an actual tungsten pin. Tungsten is, FYI, about 50% denser than lead. We had a problem at work where a moving mass on a tool had to stay in the same space, but be much heavier. The only real option was tungsten. Apparently tungsten machines very nicely. Mcmaster sells it as 'High Strength Durable Tungsten Alloy'. This is different than tungsten carbide.

Downside...it will cost a lot. McMaster sells a 5/16" diameter rod at about $68 per foot, then you need to find someone with live tooling to cut the threads. If you find a reasonable machine shop that works quickly, I'd expect you would have about $150 into making the pin.

The upside is that you would have something that very few people have, you could tune the weight by the length of the pin, and well, it would just be cool.

dld


Dude! a tungsten pin? :thumbup: That would be sick! Next step up from that is genuine unobtanium I think.....

It would definitely win the cool pin contest. :grin-square:
.
 
18.8-9 or so.
18.3" or so, was higher up before switching to an OB2 shaft
3.4oz
I'd like it to go forward to 19.5"-20"....

Adding weight to make the whole cue heavier really wouldn't make as much a difference to me. I'd welcome the added weight as long as the balance went forward..


It's a radial pin cue, also.

That sounds like a large amount of movement to me. You might just have to go back to a traditional shaft that is on the heavy side. But, if you really want to pursue it I can use my program to figure out how much weight to add to the joint pin area and how much weight to remove from the very end of the butt to shift it from 18.3 to 19.75.
 
Very simple.

Recut the first 3" of the shaft with 4 Ebony or Lignum vitae (brown( points or just make a lead ferrule?.
AFTER a cue has already been finished, is there really much a cuemaker can do to change the weight to move it forward?

I know that weight bolts can be added to move the weight rearward but I was curious if there are ways to move it forward?

I'm gonna guess I'm probably SOL on this one...
 
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Uh Oh I knew you woulkd get me Joey

Don't you think that you could do it for him? Might only
need 3 point at 2". Just weigh the point wood and see.
What are the colors of the cue? Just my idea.
Didn't read or see any place Joey.


Which book or dvd did that come from ?
Have you tried it ?
 
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chopdoc

you could replace the weight bolt with one made of upsadaisyem, making the butt lighter thus moving the weight forward
 
in tennis we use lead tape at various spots on the racquet to change balance points and weight
esthetically it wouldnot look great but it would do the trick
as you can tell
I AM NOT A CUE MAKER....:o.......:o
 
in tennis we use lead tape at various spots on the racquet to change balance points and weight
esthetically it wouldnot look great but it would do the trick
as you can tell
I AM NOT A CUE MAKER....:o.......:o

You can use this method to find where and about how much weight will be required to move the balance point to the desired position.
How the final result will be achieved is another story depending on the above results.

I use a material that is similar in density to what the insert or weight material is going to be.That way, you have a better idea of the volume required and whether it can be placed in that area.

I like simple.
Neil
 
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I was thinking similar, but I was considering an actual tungsten pin. Tungsten is, FYI, about 50% denser than lead. We had a problem at work where a moving mass on a tool had to stay in the same space, but be much heavier. The only real option was tungsten. Apparently tungsten machines very nicely. Mcmaster sells it as 'High Strength Durable Tungsten Alloy'. This is different than tungsten carbide.

Downside...it will cost a lot. McMaster sells a 5/16" diameter rod at about $68 per foot, then you need to find someone with live tooling to cut the threads. If you find a reasonable machine shop that works quickly, I'd expect you would have about $150 into making the pin.

The upside is that you would have something that very few people have, you could tune the weight by the length of the pin, and well, it would just be cool.

dld
Good luck in making tungsten radial screw.:eek::thumbup:
The shafts threads already has a 5/16 hole.
Extend that hole and add weight to whatever way you want.

~Back to making dust~
 
in tennis we use lead tape at various spots on the racquet to change balance points and weight
esthetically it wouldnot look great but it would do the trick
as you can tell
I AM NOT A CUE MAKER....:o.......:o


This is what I'm going to do.

I couldn't care less how it looks. If I get the black lead tape I've seen it'll almost look kind of normal anyways.

Just not sure how much I'll have to add.
 
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