Ivory ferrule

Titebond wood glue on all my ferrule's wood glue is easier to clean out around the threads when replacing any ferrule. It also doesn't leave that wet brown ring between the ferrul and shaft woodlike you see on most cues.

I first started with epoxy & superglue it's faster, but I find good qaulity wood glue dries slower but makes for smoother repairs down the road.

Both ways are good just my best 2 cents....

Craig Herman
 
n10spool said:
Titebond wood glue on all my ferrule's wood glue is easier to clean out around the threads when replacing any ferrule. It also doesn't leave that wet brown ring between the ferrul and shaft woodlike you see on most cues.

I first started with epoxy & superglue it's faster, but I find good qaulity wood glue dries slower but makes for smoother repairs down the road.

Both ways are good just my best 2 cents....

Craig Herman
Click to expand...

Not knocking what you're doing because whatever works for you, hey, go for it. But the statement you've made about the 'wood glue being easy to clean out of the threads' causes me to wonder. That suggests to me that the wood glue hasn't sufficiently permeated the wood or that it wasn't all that strong to begin with. FWIW, I recall having read a post somewhere on this site where it was stated that in some tests, Titebond wood glue was actually stronger than epoxy. There were no specifics as to what type epoxy was used, etc. and this test could have been applied to a specific construction application rather than overall usage.

I know what works for me and that's 2T epoxy. If the client is in a hurry, I'll use 5 minute. 20 yrs. ago, I did install one ferrule with cyano and later found out that the ferrule had come loose. I've never used cyano for ferrules since. One is too many. I go at any repair with the mind-set that 'if it's done right the first time' it will never need to be addressed again. Wishful thinking huh? I worked in industrial maintenance for a number of years and no matter how 'idiot-proof' you made a repair or installation, some idiot would show you just how creative they can be. Se la vie.
 
i don't think wood glue will permeate like epoxy will.that is why i like certain types of epoxy for a joints.for ferrules it isn't necessay though.all you need is something to hold the ferrule to the threads and wood glue is plenty strong for that.
 
I dont have a thread router setup on my lathe yet so when I recut threads with a die let's say It chunks up or twist the tennon off. Takes to long with a file In one away and with wood glue I can pick at the V groove threads pretty clean and follow it up with a lite file or compression die.

A few top notch cuemaker's top me the wood glue trick I have yet to break an Ivory ferrule that was glued this way and I break with it every day hard.

I still use slow set epoxy on the canvas jump ferrule's tip combo's Just because I think all that shock from the impact cant all travel into the cue ball some has to be absorbed into the shaft which I think the maple tennon or shaft might be the weakest link then.

I still refining my methods and I'm still learning from time to time from some of the great ideas or proven theories some of you cuemakers on this forum.

I always enjoy the imputs from all.

Craig
 
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