Jump break question

LILJOHN30

LILJOHN30

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There is a barnhardt cue on the forum that I like , I need a jump break cue however.Can the cue which is a play cue be converted to a jump break?What would be the cost and the pros and cons of doing this.Also what would the cost be.
 
LILJOHN30 said:
There is a barnhardt cue on the forum that I like , I need a jump break cue however.Can the cue which is a play cue be converted to a jump break?What would be the cost and the pros and cons of doing this.Also what would the cost be.
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A straight answer would be yes but I don't believe it would make a very good J/B cue. You would be better off having one built as a J/B has different parameters than a playing cue and needs a different tapered, stiffer shaft to be truly effective.

Dick
 
i agree that a j/b cue needs to have different parameters than a playing cue to be the most effective. i guess at the very least you should get a break shaft made for it with a stronger taper and break tip/ferrule. also the extra joint will add some weight to it, hopefully the cue has a weight bolt to adjust the weight. i think most people like lighter cues for breaking.
 
Jump/break cues are worthless.
You will always compromise jumping, breaking, or both.
 
Sheldon said:
Jump/break cues are worthless.
You will always compromise jumping, breaking, or both.
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There are quite a number of great jump/break cues made in this country. They jump and break just fine with no compromise in either.
 
i agree with arnot, i've had a few very good jump/breaks that jump and break well. not all do, but you can definitely find good ones. i think ultimately separate cues are better, but a good j/b can be pretty damn close.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
There are quite a number of great jump/break cues made in this country. They jump and break just fine with no compromise in either.
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You obviously haven't experienced how well a jump cue can be made to perform. The reason for this performance (at least on my jump cues) is counterproductive for breaking. Also, the best breaking characteristics (low deflection) make for a crappy jump cue. Yes, jump break cues can be made that work for both, but will never perform optimally for both.
 
Sheldon said:
Jump/break cues are worthless.
You will always compromise jumping, breaking, or both.
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I wouldn't say worthless.
But, ultra-lightweigh jump cues like Stealth with balsa wood core, wouldn't make for good breaker fronts.:)
 
Sheldon said:
You obviously haven't experienced how well a jump cue can be made to perform. The reason for this performance (at least on my jump cues) is counterproductive for breaking. Also, the best breaking characteristics (low deflection) make for a crappy jump cue. Yes, jump break cues can be made that work for both, but will never perform optimally for both.
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I can jump a full blocking ball within one inch of the cue ball with one of my jump break cues.

Deflection has nothing to do with a break cue because you should not be using (English) which is side spin.

You sell jump cues and break cues so you have a monitary interest in what you are saying. I sell jump cues, break cues and jump break cues and they all work wonderfully.
 
Sheldon said:
You obviously haven't experienced how well a jump cue can be made to perform. The reason for this performance (at least on my jump cues) is counterproductive for breaking. Also, the best breaking characteristics (low deflection) make for a crappy jump cue. Yes, jump break cues can be made that work for both, but will never perform optimally for both.
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I agree with what you say.
 
Sheldon said:
You obviously haven't experienced how well a jump cue can be made to perform. The reason for this performance (at least on my jump cues) is counterproductive for breaking. Also, the best breaking characteristics (low deflection) make for a crappy jump cue. Yes, jump break cues can be made that work for both, but will never perform optimally for both.
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Hi Sheldon; I think for the majority of people playing pool a JUMP/ BREAK CUE makes a lot of sense. 1st the average player is cheap, with little or no money to spend on cues. We witness that, by how many posts, are about LOW end cues. With the J/B they get the most for their buck. In my opinion a good buy(for the masses). I make both JUMP & J/B cues. In the hands of a good jumper they both work, but for the average Joe, they are a definite improvement to their arsenal...JER
 
this may be a stupid question Sheldon but i'll ask anyway.why is low deflection better for break cues?if you are hitting dead center or maybe a hair above center but no english why would deflection be relevant?
 
masonh said:
this may be a stupid question Sheldon but i'll ask anyway.why is low deflection better for break cues?if you are hitting dead center or maybe a hair above center but no english why would deflection be relevant?
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Most people aren't that accurate. Especially those that like to hit the break shot with everything they've got. A low-deflection cue will be a lot more forgiving. Also, even with a dead center hit, you are jacked up slightly, because it's impossible to get the cue level. Break shots are jump shots, whether you notice or not, if you hit the ball hard enough, it jumps. Go to a pool hall, and look at the table the 'pros' like to play on, you will see marks from the cueball skipping off their break spot to the rack. Unless you hit the head ball square, if it has a little air under it, it's likely to go off the table on you.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
I can jump a full blocking ball within one inch of the cue ball with one of my jump break cues.
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Oh yeah? I can jump a full ball from 1/4 inch. :eek:
Deflection has nothing to do with a break cue because you should not be using (English) which is side spin.
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Are you serious? You've never used english on a jump shot? It can come up, believe it or not.... Deflection plays a BIG part in jumping. Anyone that has experimented with this will agree.
You sell jump cues and break cues so you have a monitary interest in what you are saying. I sell jump cues, break cues and jump break cues and they all work wonderfully.
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I make all 3 as well, and I am confident that my jump cue and break cue will work better at both breaking and jumping than any break/jump cue. Most people grasp the logic in this right away, but some still want the convenience of having them both in one. I don't talk anyone out of what they want, but will offer opinion if asked.
 
Sheldon said:
Most people aren't that accurate. Especially those that like to hit the break shot with everything they've got. A low-deflection cue will be a lot more forgiving. Also, even with a dead center hit, you are jacked up slightly, because it's impossible to get the cue level. Break shots are jump shots, whether you notice or not, if you hit the ball hard enough, it jumps. Go to a pool hall, and look at the table the 'pros' like to play on, you will see marks from the cueball skipping off their break spot to the rack. Unless you hit the head ball square, if it has a little air under it, it's likely to go off the table on you.
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I've always had this question about people saying the low deflection shafts are more forgiving of a bad stroke. I don't want to hijack this thread but maybe some one can answer it here.

Why is it that low deflection is supposedly more forgiving? Isn't the whole premise of regular deflection shafts and BHE, that you can line up a center ball hit then pivot about a certain bridge length and the cue ball still goes along the original center ball line? Shouldn't a low deflection shaft be less forgiving?
 
ShaneT58 said:
I've always had this question about people saying the low deflection shafts are more forgiving of a bad stroke. I don't want to hijack this thread but maybe some one can answer it here.

Why is it that low deflection is supposedly more forgiving? Isn't the whole premise of regular deflection shafts and BHE, that you can line up a center ball hit then pivot about a certain bridge length and the cue ball still goes along the original center ball line? Shouldn't a low deflection shaft be less forgiving?
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I have found that this is true on some shots. My statement was made with only breaking in mind, I was not making a blanket statement.
 
i have a players j/b i put a phenloic tip and leather wrap on prob about 4 years ago. the shaft is 12mm or smaller and i break a ton with it. good control. also i jump excellent with it. jumping with position

ive mentioned this cue before. ive sold and reaquired this cue like 3 different times:D :D :D
 
ShaneT58 said:
I've always had this question about people saying the low deflection shafts are more forgiving of a bad stroke. I don't want to hijack this thread but maybe some one can answer it here.

Why is it that low deflection is supposedly more forgiving? Isn't the whole premise of regular deflection shafts and BHE, that you can line up a center ball hit then pivot about a certain bridge length and the cue ball still goes along the original center ball line? Shouldn't a low deflection shaft be less forgiving?
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1. Low deflection more forgiving on normal play = No (for most players).

2. Low deflection forgiving on Break shot = Yes and No. This depends on your bridge distance. Most Pro break, placing their cueball and bridge distance of more than 14 inches apart. So low deflection shafts actually do help in break shot.
 
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