Laser rack -- anyone used it?

gulfportdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Of those who have used it, do you feel that the laser rack is any better than just having a black line drawn across the foot string, as well as from the foot spot to the center of the foot rail? If so, why?

Thanks~ Doc
 
gulfportdoc said:
Of those who have used it, do you feel that the laser rack is any better than just having a black line drawn across the foot string, as well as from the foot spot to the center of the foot rail? If so, why?

Thanks~ Doc

I used it Saturday during the Gabe and Sylver match and was really impressed with it. It is heavy, tight and lines the head ball perfectly. It is the best rack I've ever used.
 
I just got a chance to use the Laser-Rack here TODAY on my home table, and I was very impressed with the strong construction, the ease of use, and the accuracy. It's difficult to imagine any other methodology that would be more accurate.

Not only an excellent product, but the inventor Abe Lim is a good guy and a good shooter as well. I predict you will be seeing a lot more of the Laser-Rack.
 
I appreciate the responses, lads. But why do you think the rack is any more accurate than simply having lines drawn on the table?

Doc
 
gulfportdoc said:
I appreciate the responses, lads. But why do you think the rack is any more accurate than simply having lines drawn on the table?

Doc

Lining up with the long string is no problem with the lines (I have those lines on my table), but it takes a little guesswork to get the head ball right on the foot string because your head isn't directly over the head ball when racking.

On the other hand, I don't think those small placement errors matter.

One thing the laser rack is good for is that the opponent can easily see what's going on.

pj
chgo
 
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gulfportdoc said:
I appreciate the responses, lads. But why do you think the rack is any more accurate than simply having lines drawn on the table?

Doc

It also lines up from the sides as well forcing one to rack on the spot. I just feel that the rack is as near perfect as one cn get.
 
I suppose you could draw lines all the way through from the spot to the foot rail, and then the width of the table, but I don't believe it would be quite as accurate.

Getting the cue ball exactly on the spot, I believe would be a problem as well, because you won't be able to "see" where the head ball is being spotted.
Nothing quite like the straight line of a laser. Plus, like ironman said, the head ball will be directly on the spot.

With the Laser rack you won't even need a rack spot. I think spots are one of the reasons for the difficulties in obtaining a tight rack.

I guess I'll have to admit I'm biased, Abe and I just did a demo on the rack and my new rotation game.

I still think it's a great product.
 
The big thing I was seeing is it eliminates the rack from being turned (i.e. the back row of balls is forced to be parallel with the foot rail).
 
Patrick Johnson said:
... it takes a little guesswork to get the head ball right on the foot string because your head isn't directly over the head ball when racking.

Hi Doc-- You bring up a very good question and I think Patrick answered it best. Unless the user is tall, it will be somewhat difficult to be directly over the head ball to line up to the the drawn lines, especially on a 9-footer.

Another good point was the fact that, with The Laser Rack, your opponent can easily see that the rack is straight. If the lasers are lined up, the rack is straight. :thumbup2:


Thanks to all who have responded! I appreciate all the words of encouragement. I am very excited about this product and I've worked hard to get where I'm at. I still have a lot of work ahead of me and reading/hearing all the positive responses makes me want to work even harder to succeed. Thank you!
 
First Time

Danny Kuykendal said:
I suppose you could draw lines all the way through from the spot to the foot rail, and then the width of the table, but I don't believe it would be quite as accurate.

Getting the cue ball exactly on the spot, I believe would be a problem as well, because you won't be able to "see" where the head ball is being spotted.
Nothing quite like the straight line of a laser. Plus, like ironman said, the head ball will be directly on the spot.

With the Laser rack you won't even need a rack spot. I think spots are one of the reasons for the difficulties in obtaining a tight rack.

I guess I'll have to admit I'm biased, Abe and I just did a demo on the rack and my new rotation game.

I still think it's a great product.


Danny- I tried your rotation game Monday night at DK's-I like it.

Abe- I've seen you with your laser rack-good idea - I hope it takes off. League/tournament -great idea. Money games-we'll see.

Good luck to you both

3railkick/Bill
 
I haven't tried the Laser Rack but I am getting good success on my Diamond using the Diamond rack and after making a very small "T" on my Tournament Blue cloth with a fine point Sharpie.

My Diamond rack has a small squared notch that has been machined out. The notch is in the center of the leg that is opposite the White diamond apex... and I always rack with the White diamond apex forward... meaning the notch is in the middle of the triangle's side that is parallel to the foot cushion when I rack.

So I first marked the cloth with a small dot that is centered in the notch (R to L) and placed (F to R) so that it aligns with the outside edge of the rack when the rack is perfectly placed. After moving the rack out of the way, I made a small line (~1/8" long) starting at the dot and drawing it straight back towards the 2nd diamond on the foot rail... and then I drew another small line (~3/8" long) through the (former) dot such that this line formed a "T" with the first line.

Each time I rack I align the "T" properly with the notch and get a perfect rack each time. To date, no ball has been tapped on my table while racking so it racks easily each time. :wink:
 
Danny Kuykendal said:
With the Laser rack you won't even need a rack spot. I think spots are one of the reasons for the difficulties in obtaining a tight rack.

Much as don't like physical spots, unless the table is being used exclusively for Straight Pool or One Pocket I would imagine you would very quickly get a hole worn through the cloth at the head spot, especially in a busy room.
 
We marked several of our tables at Danny K's by outlining the triangles and it doesn't quite work as well as the laser rack.

Bill, glad you enjoyed the game! I hope it is challenging, enjoyable and determines the best player.

Danny
 
Why write on your pretty felt when you can use lasers and keep your felt clean?:thumbup:

Its a great rack IMHO. More to come after this weekend;)
 
Why write on your pretty felt when you can use lasers and keep your felt clean?

There are other reasons for lines besides racking. I like a line from the spot to the foot rail for spotting balls during play and I like a line on the head string to mark off the kitchen. And since I have drop pockets, which means I can alternate ends for breaking, I put lines at each end. I think I'd want them even if I used a laser rack.

I wish I had a whole grid that I could turn on and off like on the Wei table (for practicing banks/kicks, setting up shots/layouts, etc.).

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
There are other reasons for lines besides racking. I like a line from the spot to the foot rail for spotting balls during play and I like a line on the head string to mark off the kitchen. And since I have drop pockets, which means I can alternate ends for breaking, I put lines at each end. I think I'd want them even if I used a laser rack.

I wish I had a whole grid that I could turn on and off like on the Wei table (for practicing banks/kicks, setting up shots/layouts, etc.).

pj
chgo

You can still break from either end with ball returns. Just put the balls in the rack and roll it to the opposite end. Doesn't take any more time than retrieving balls from the drop pockets.

Been doing it for decades.

Regards,
Jim
 
So...

When the lazers are all lined up and the balls are in the rack, what do you do when they aren't tight, and won't rack tight on the spot?

Sorry but the lazers would be useless at a pool room because of the ball and cloth quality and wear. At home its probably OK, just like the Sardo, except it doesn't guarantee a tight rack only an aligned one.
 
Deadon said:
So...

When the lazers are all lined up and the balls are in the rack, what do you do when they aren't tight, and won't rack tight on the spot?

Sorry but the lazers would be useless at a pool room because of the ball and cloth quality and wear. At home its probably OK, just like the Sardo, except it doesn't guarantee a tight rack only an aligned one.

That is when you complain to these non caring lazy assed owners to replace the spots. Then they might think of re-surfacing their tables when they are recoverd. But, again most owners can't see 4 feet past the bar anyway and just consider this trivial bellyaching.

If the laser doesn't work though, it's the tables fault.
 
A straight line from the spot to the middle diamond on the end rail, is all you should ever need to put down a good rack. By the way, the new DELTA medal rack is the triple nuts. I haven't used the Laser rack yet, so I can't comment on it. But if Ironman says it's good I know it is.
 
Deadon said:
So...

When the lazers are all lined up and the balls are in the rack, what do you do when they aren't tight, and won't rack tight on the spot?

Sorry but the lazers would be useless at a pool room because of the ball and cloth quality and wear. At home its probably OK, just like the Sardo, except it doesn't guarantee a tight rack only an aligned one.

Deadon-- very good point. If the balls don't rack tight at the spot, we would normally move front or back to find a good/workable position.

Well, you can do the same with The Laser Rack and still be able to keep the rack straight. You can move the rack forward or back and use the alignment point as your reference for the left and right sides. I hope that makes sense. If you have to move the rack forward to get a good/tight rack, let's say 2mm, you can reference 2mm at both sides and visually see it. This would still yield a "non-twisted" rack.

Ideally, new felt would be the solution but wouldn't be practical for most rooms. Thanks for posting. :)
 
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