WestBeardsley
Registered
I have been trying to learn the diamond system, and can not get it figured out. Anyone have any advice to learning the diamond system, or links to web-site that teach the diamond track lines?
Learning the diamond system, and diamond track lines
- Thread starter WestBeardsley
- Start date
Actionhound
Banned
I am also interested in this, anyone?
WestBeardsley...One of the problems with trying to learn any kind of "diamond system" is that it is so subjective to speed and spin, not to mention how the table is set up. This also assumes that one has an accurate and repeatable cue delivery system too! One of the first things I do, before performing an exhibition is to test the rails, to see how they play, by running the CB up and down the middle at different speeds, and shooting the CB three rails to see how that table plays. If you're interested, I can work with you on learning to use the diamonds, and how to adjust to table size, and cloth speed. I'll be in your area the first weekend of December. PM me if you're interested.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
Count the diamonds, divide by 2, and hit that on the opposite rail. As Scott said, speed will be subjective; usually pretty slow or "just enough to get there" center-ball works close enough.
Note: count target as 0. For example, to kick to the corner pocket (0), from a cue ball at the 5th diamond on the long-rail (count the side pocket, too), divide 5 by 2 = 2.5. Now on the opposite long-rail, count up from the corner pocket (0) to 2.5 and hit it center & slow.
The trick is to figure out where the cue ball actually is, because it's not straight out from the diamond (unless you're right at the rail) but it's along one of the designated tracks that you are talking about. Here's a quick break down of them:
8-4
7-3.5
6-3
5-2.5
4-2
3-1.5
2-1
1-.5
Or anywhere in between, for example: 3.5-1.75. You don't have to memorize them because you can always just divide by 2...to figure them out. You can keep breaking them in half until you're down to the accuracy that you need, too.
After use, you'll forget the numbers and just hold your cue over the side pocket to the 2nd diamond, the 3rd diamond to 1 1/2 diamonds, etc...to kick to the pocket.
Note: count target as 0. For example, to kick to the corner pocket (0), from a cue ball at the 5th diamond on the long-rail (count the side pocket, too), divide 5 by 2 = 2.5. Now on the opposite long-rail, count up from the corner pocket (0) to 2.5 and hit it center & slow.
The trick is to figure out where the cue ball actually is, because it's not straight out from the diamond (unless you're right at the rail) but it's along one of the designated tracks that you are talking about. Here's a quick break down of them:
8-4
7-3.5
6-3
5-2.5
4-2
3-1.5
2-1
1-.5
Or anywhere in between, for example: 3.5-1.75. You don't have to memorize them because you can always just divide by 2...to figure them out. You can keep breaking them in half until you're down to the accuracy that you need, too.
After use, you'll forget the numbers and just hold your cue over the side pocket to the 2nd diamond, the 3rd diamond to 1 1/2 diamonds, etc...to kick to the pocket.
WestBeardsley said:
I posted about the 1-rail system, if you're interested in 3-rails look up DeadAim's kicking acadamy...
Get Robert Byrne's books. He describes many systems and usually tries to also cover the corrections you will need for different cue ball starting places, different cloth, different tables and such. There are some videos on the market, and some people have a lot more success learning from videos, but if you can learn from books, get Byrne. You might also consider finding an instructor or even an "old guy in the pool hall" to help you with this. There are also some articles on diamond systems, including what you have to do to make them work on your table at http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/BD_articles.html -- see December of 1999 for example.WestBeardsley said:
WestBeardsley said:
Take up 3-Cushion Billiards (Carom Cafe), go to the Carom Billiards portion of the forum and get some juicy advice from Mr. Jewett.
WestBeardsley said:
What game are you playing?
Rack up a Victory-No 1- written or vhs, dvd versions available from Tom Dr.Cue Rossman is awesome and shows many systems and explains them in easy to understand terms. I bought the vhs ten years ago and I still watch it once in a while to refresh some of his systems, he also gets into masse and jump shots as well as banking systems. The tapes are very cheap compared to some books and videos that are not nearly as good.
Leonard
Leonard
I used to play around on www.easypooltutor.com. It had tons of stuff that was great (free) reading.
-yowizzle!
-yowizzle!
You could always get in that other thread about the moral thing and find out where to get cheap illegal copies of stuff!
WestBeardsley said:
Several resources were commented on here and I have used and agree with most of them.
However, if you are playing 9 ball the need for a 3 rail kicking system WHICH IS AWESOME IF YOU NEED IT will not come up very much. I would take a wild guess that you would need it once in 50-100 racks...if that often.
Therefore, the question is whether to spend your time mastering a skill used so infrequently when spending the same time to master numerous other skills would be by far the better use of your time.
But for 2 rail kicks, try this system which is not based on diamonds and therefore, requires no memorization.
1. Say the CB is on the head spot and the OB is on the foot spot (just so their positions can be easily visualized.)
2. Say you can only kick to the right...in the general direction of the right corner pocket when views from the foot of the table. (reverse as necessary if you are kicking to the left).
3. Hold your cue stick by the butt and point it toward the center of the right corner pocket and adjust your body position so that the cue stick hovers in the air over a point on the table exactly half way between the CB and OB.
4. Now, move the cue stick EXACTLY parallel to the right so that it is directly above the CB. The tip of the cue now points to your target on the cushion (ALMOST)
5. Now adjust that target position slightly to the left...the width of a chalk cube...or two. It will vary by table, english imparted etc. Shoot for that adjusted target and you have a system that will work as well as a more complicated diamond-based system.
6. CAUTIONS:
A. you have to hold your cue DIRECTLY over a line bisecting the exact half way point between the CB and OB.
B. English or draw and the pace of the stroke will screw up this system just as they do with diamond-based systems.
C. Tables vary as does any GIVEN table depending on heat/humidity/cloth condition etc.
Regards,
Jim
One of the best books I have found is "Winning One Pocket" for diagramming the diamond system and other systems. It also explaining the differences/adjustments when approaching new cloth, old cloth, etc.
Problem is it is out of circulation. If you know someone who has one, you could copy the pages referring to these systems.
Another is as suggested earlier for other systems is Dead Aim's Kicking Academy found here on AZ Billiards Forums. Do a search for Kicking Academy. Intro and 8 sections.
But in order to understand it better, copy the information and take it to the pool room when you practice. It is too difficult to try to remember if not in front of you.
Keep an open mind and good luck.
Problem is it is out of circulation. If you know someone who has one, you could copy the pages referring to these systems.
Another is as suggested earlier for other systems is Dead Aim's Kicking Academy found here on AZ Billiards Forums. Do a search for Kicking Academy. Intro and 8 sections.
But in order to understand it better, copy the information and take it to the pool room when you practice. It is too difficult to try to remember if not in front of you.
Keep an open mind and good luck.
In Byrne's New Standard Book of Pool and Billiards, Chapter 4 in the 3-Cushion Billiards Section is devoted to Diamond Systems. It's about 26 pages long and includes examples and variations. The system is very helpful as a foundation to your kicking game, but it's not infallible. You'll find tables under certain conditions where everything comes up a diamond short. With practice, you'll learn what allowances you can make to compensate.
This system assumes that the rails reflect the cue ball like mirrors. To the extent that this is true, it will work. Or, if you use the right amount of side spin, it can usually be made to work when it doesn't want to, but it it not an english-free system. I think that if you try the system as I suggested in http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/2004-07.pdf you will decide that either compensation or a different system is required.av84fun said:
Secaucus Fats
Banned
WestBeardsley said:
Get yourself a copy of "Win At Pocket Billiards" by Desmond Allen Ph.D.
http://www.amazon.com/Win-Pocket-Billiards-Desomd-Allen/dp/156625163X/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-7337946-1386521?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1194307132&sr=1-1
Fats
I usually don't post, but Banking With the Beard is one of if not the best books on this subject. Also teaches you a method of aiming which will follow over into straight shooting on angle shots, or at least it did for me.