Level cue?

if you elevate the cue on draw shots then need to use bottom left or right you are likely to elevate on those also and that introduces masse to the shot which adds one more variable to adjust for.
 
LAMas said:
That what some here are talkin bout. Thanks.

One needs to stroke with the tip scrubbing/swiping the CB down for more contact time to effect more spin/draw before the CB is sent airborn. This is also appearant with other english like left and right where a wrist flip might do the trick.
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It might seem that way, but that's not the case.

Elevating, twisting, flicking, turning, scooping, steering, jumping, and other gymnastics all reduce accuracy. That you will see some excellent shooters doing it is only evidence that they have learned to compensate for it. We must all learn to compensate in order to shoot shots that require elevation, but some of these aberrations have no real place and should be unlearned early.

If you really want your cue tip in contact for a long time you could just push the cue ball along....but that's a foul. :wink:


Of course, that's just how I feel about it, and I'm just an old schooler farting around with this now.
 
Tennesseejoe said:
Those strange things can be your friend. Read Dr. Dave's articles on draw---you may be very suprised.
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Key....can be....not always are.....and when they are one must compensate.....which is another factor affecting accuracy. If you don't need it (cue elevation) don't use it.

But again....that's just me. I didn't write any books. :)
 
The longer the tip stays in contact with the cb, the more spin will be applied. ...
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To the best of my knowledge the length of time the tip remains on the ball has very little effect on how much spin the cue ball gets. Experiments confirm this theory. In fact there is a reasonable argument (which I don't think has been tested) that for maximum spin you want minimum contact time provided that the chalk will hold.
 
There is one reason I can think of for consistently using an elevated stroke and that is consistency. Suppose a player learns to play all his shots with a level stick. Now he comes to a shot near the cushion or with an object ball near the cue ball that requires an elevated stick. He will be out of his element. Suppose another player always uses elevation. His shots are all the same, although at first each of them will be harder to master.

I think snooker players have the most level cues and I think that's in part because they have obstructions more rarely. Bar table players have lots of obstructions, so they would have the most reason to adopt an always-elevated position.

Another reason to stay elevated is that a level stick is hard on the knuckles and I have the scars to prove it. But mostly I think a more level cue is better for the reasons listed above.
 
ChicagoRJ said:
The longer the tip stays in contact with the cb, the more spin will be applied. The more elevated the cue, the quicker the tip leaves contact with the cb.

So, your way will work, and will work for many shots. Just don't expect terrific drawing when really needed, or possibly be as consistent as you could be drawing the rock....
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OK, I will bite. How can I keep my cue tip on the cue ball longer than 1/1000 of a second?
randyg
 
Comparing elevated vs. level cue for draw is pointless if you picture shots where the cue ball and object ball are within 36 inches...now, if you're shooting a table length shot and trying to draw it all the way back, and you can do that with anything but a level cue, I'm impressed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL3WvPwSDSQ (see 2:16)
3:04, he swoops it, but it's level when he hits it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTGMZVben94
(see 42:39) now THAT's a level powerful draw shot from Bustamante...!
 
West Point 1987 said:
Comparing elevated vs. level cue for draw is pointless if you picture shots where the cue ball and object ball are within 36 inches...now, if you're shooting a table length shot and trying to draw it all the way back, and you can do that with anything but a level cue, I'm impressed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL3WvPwSDSQ (see 2:16)
3:04, he swoops it, but it's level when he hits it...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTGMZVben94
(see 42:39) now THAT's a level powerful draw shot from Bustamante...!
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Larry Nevel would be an example. He shoots full-length draw shots with the cue ball frozen to the end rail and consequently has to jack up. I agree completely that it is easier to draw with a near-level cue.
 
Jodacus said:
I have always drawn the rock with an elevated cue. The benefits of having a level cue really don't come into play when drawing the ball. Am I missing something here?
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See the following article, which covers this topic in detail:

In general, draw is much more effective with a near-level cue. Although, for "quicker" draw, cue elevation is required. For more info, see:

For more info and advice concerning draw-shot effects, see:

Regards,
Dave
 
LAMas said:
Why does the level draw stroke end up with the tip scraping the cloth?
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With a pendulum stroke (with no elbow drop), as the grip swings up (after CB contact), the tip goes down.

Regards,
Dave
 
LAMas said:
Why does the level draw stroke end up with the tip scraping the cloth?
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Besides the "static" pendulum arm effect that Dr. Dave mentions, I think there is also a "dynamic" effect in that the off-center hit on the cue ball causes the front of the shaft to deflect (downward on draw shots) and that brings the tip closer to the cloth. Also, no one shoots draw shots with a perfectly level cue stick; there is always some elevation.
 
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